Changes While Framing New Build
Ryan
last year
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kandrewspa
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Build a Garage Apt to live in while building home?
Comments (22)Hi all, Just wanted to chime in on this thread. I am starting my 3rd self-built home project. (Yes, I need to have my head examined) I run a remodeling company so it's not completely insane. Previous comments about kitchens and baths being core expenses are right on the money--- so to speak. They are expensive. Building one in an apartment and then a new one in your finished house is really shooting yourself in the foot. Try this instead. Build with the foot print of a 3 car garage, say 38 x 25, but only utilize the space a two car garage would generally take up as garage space--- 25x25. Use the 25x10 part to put your permanent stair, a foyer and your permanent kitchen in. Now you can think of the space over the garage as a second story of your finished home. You can get 2-3 bed rooms and a bonus out of the space with a hall bath. Unless you really need an apartment this approach can save a bunch of cash. Someone was asking about standing seam metal roofing. If you use the commercial folks you see on TV expect to be asked to pay $65 a square foot. I had one come out and give me a quote just to check it out. It was a real manipulative "hard sell" with all these "bonuses" and "programs" available "if you sign today." Be very careful. No matter how you slice it it's a rip. Either HD or Lowes will special order metal roofing for you. Its's not hard to install. (Be careful, wear sneakers and don't bend down on your knees, it is really slick.) If this is your forever house, install 40 year architectural asphalt. It looks nice and will likely outlive me. Good Luck and Be careful out there! Bruce...See MoreDid you/Could you stay in current home while building?
Comments (33)Lindsy - I can't figure out how to turn on my messages. I went into my profile, but can't see anywhere to edit it. I see 'messages' as an option for me to click, but it says I have zero messages. ?? I couldn't see your message button either. We aren't using a builder. My husband is acting as the GC. Jury is still out on how wise that decision is. We live by White Rock Lake, so an older neighborhood and no HOA or subdivision rules. We can build a hot pink house made entirely out of metal and stucco if we want. :) Not our design, but we could if we wanted to! We are doing a completely custom build...designed by an architect and we are picking and buying everything ourselves. So we aren't at the mercy of the builder's choices or prices. We have a ton of equity in our current house...it's almost paid off and has over tripled in value over the last 10 years. So we refinanced it earlier last year and used the equity to buy the lot next door and still have enough to almost completely fund the build. We had to take out a small construction loan for the remainder. No plans to roll that into a permanent mortgage. Once our house sells, we should be able to pay off our current mortgage plus the construction loan. If it doesn't sell, we should be able to continue to cover the existing mortgage and the construction loan payments. We don't want to do that forever, but could if necessary. Yes, we have started building. Framing is almost done. Hoping to deck roof and do sheathing next week. Our windows are in and the supplier is waiting for our go-signal so they can deliver. Trying to move as fast as possible!...See MoreLumber and Framing Materials for New build?
Comments (16)One estimate was $27k and the other was $21k. So not exactly $7k difference but I just noticed many differences in the take off for quantities for the dimensional lumber. I'm just not sure I am confident in the suppliers' take off numbers and was wondering how others go about getting a solid lumber number? Do you depend on the supplier and trust their number? Do you hire someone to do a true takeoff? I have a materials list from the architect but my engineer changed some of the rafters and lvls so I can't totally go by the materials list. Plus the materials list does not account for waste. I am going to attempt to do a take off myself and hope to not miss anything. I was hoping to depend a little more on the lumber suppliers since I thought they do this daily, but maybe not. I understand the framing lumber quantities will never be perfect, but I also want to avoid having a bunch of leftover lumber that they most likely won't take back. With lumber being high, it starts to add up. thanks for advice....See MorePro plz help tile changing hidden mold after new build shower install?
Comments (18)jillian, a couple of things: The shower pan is "the floor" of your shower. There should be a waterproofing membrane of some sort under the tile, and it's a code requirement that the waterproof membrane be sloped towards the drain between 1/4" per foot and 1/2" per foot. Now, I'm not talking about the tile itself, which should also be sloped to the drain. In addition to the tile being sloped, the waterproofing membrane needs to be sloped as well. What often happens is installers will pace the membrane flat on the subfloor, then put a sloped layer of what we call "deck mud" on top of the membrane. Nothing at all wrong with deck mud. It's a sand and cement mixture that is fairly porous, so water can percolate through it. Water WILL get past the floor tile and grout. Grout is porous. The water then gets in to the deck mud, just as it is supposed to. It percolates down through the deck mud until it hits the membrane, just as it is supposed to. Once it hits the sloped membrane, the water flows down hill towards the drain and goes out the drain by what we call "weep holes". Weep holes are small passages built into the drain to allow the water to escape the deck mud and eventually go down the drain. Just as it is supposed to! With a sloped membrane, the deck mud may be moist, but it won't be overly saturated and hold water. Now, if your installer put the shower pan membrane flat on the subfloor, when water percolates through the deck mud, it hits the flat membrane and simply sits there. The mud becomes fully saturated. If the bottom edge of the cement board on the walls was covered by deck mud, then the saturated deck mud can wet the wall board, and moisture can slowly wick up the walls, behind the tile. Because it is becoming wet from behind, mold or discoloration can build up BEHIND the glaze. I think one of the nastiest things to do in tiling, or with tile remediation, is to break up and demolish a saturated deck mud shower pan. They can be absolutely nasty. There's primordial ooze in that nasty mud. Anyhow, I tried to give a "nutshell" explanation, my nutshells seem to drag on for a bit. But hopefully this will allow you to better understand a potential issue with your shower. I'm not saying that IS what is wrong, but it's a common issue that presents symptoms similar to the ones you are seeing. Good luck getting it rectified....See MoreMark Bischak, Architect
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