Wow. The guys on that inspectors forum seem to take great joy in finding interpretations making something illegal. So you might have some trouble getting it past your local inspector and would need to ask beforehand. It looks to me like it should meet the intent if you had enough of them to match the standard fixed receptacle requirement, and if the UL testing covered the specific type of installation. I don't see why they are comparing this to an extension cord from another room. If the UL testing covered the flexible cord as part of the device, I see no added hazard. You aren't going to overload it, walk on it, or trip over it. Some of them even seemed to be ok with the safety of the cord, but wouldn't count it as meeting the requirement for a kitchen counter. Seems to me if you have the required number always available for use, how it is connected is unimportant.

Yes, I'll definitely check w/ my town's code. Just planning ahead... Another idea, based on histokitch's kitchen sill (see picture below): - putting sillite on the window sill: See how the window sill is almost flushed w/ the countertop? I could put the sillite there, yes? I like to have a flat countertop w/out any edges to go around. I'm getting stainless steel countertop integrated with a stainless sink, so it's just 1 piece w/ no edges (oooh, I couldn't stand my drop-in sink in my previous home, couldn't get the edges/rim clean enough). LOVE your kitchen! (I'm also having 30" countertops.) Sillite: Kinda like jsweenc's kitchen, except of standing vertical, the outlets would be laying down flat. Scroll 2/3 down to see the picture (after the 2 pictures of the island sillites) (I can't post the picture for some reason.) Here is a link that might be useful: jsweenc's kitchen w/ sillites

scrappy, I wanted to wait on talking to the inspector until I understood better what the options (if any) would be. I don't know your experience, but mine, though limited, has been that some inspectors are helpful, some not, and none should ever be "pressed" to answer in advance of having the work ready for inspection. I think "pressing" means asking for an answer when the inspector doesn't know either. The one I spoke with was in between. He read the NEC code section 422 something to me that deals with dishwashers. I had read that when googling and reading forums (I did not tell him) but I knew that did not address my situation. He (the code) said that the DW could plug in with a plug wire that was not less than 3' nor more than 4' running to a switch under the sink. (The switch would be the required disconnect in an accessible location.) Fine, that's the way most are done because most DW are right next to the sink. But then I tried to delicately "press" about the intervening 9" cabinet, because code requires the switch to be in an "adjacent" space. I asked if the wire could run through the 9" cabinet to under the sink, just as the DW discharge would be doing. He sounded defensive and said he would have to look up the code definition of "adjacent". I already knew the code does not define "adjacent". Then he said just hard wire it and put a lock out thingy (that wasn't his word) on the fuse in the main. I decided I'd better stop there, thanked him for his help. So, what I have learned (for my jurisdiction) if the DW is not going to be directly next to the sink: 1) Check first whether your DW will give a choice of plug in or direct wire. (He did say he goes by whatever the manu booklet says). From my researching I believe that going to plug in is already trending and may become standard by the manufacturers. It may become an NEC requirement based on pending NEC revisions for 2017. However, there may need to be additional clarification/resolution on "accessibility". The "accessible with no tools" seems to be an issue for a DW that has retaining screws. The "adjacent" requirement not only needs to be defined but also the running of a "soft wire" through cabinets needs to be clarified. It may be that a DW plug wire running through cabinets does not fall under the prohibition of having soft wires in a wall, which everyone already knows is a no-no. And if it is OK to run the wire through one cabinet wall (which presumably it is since putting the outlet under the sink requires the wire to go through a cabinet wall anyway), why is running it through more than one cabinet wall a problem? (My 9" cabinet would be within the 3'-4' but more intervening cabs could be a problem.) 2) Electrical wiring forums (I googled many) show that there is uncertainty as to both current and pending code for DW wiring when the DW is not directly adjacent to the sink cabinet as well as what "accessible" means for a plug in appliance that is not immediately removable without tools (toaster oven on counter top versus DW with retaining screws). 3) The most practical solutions, with explanations justifying the possible contradictions, on forums is to run the plug to a GFIC outlet under the sink. The less appreciated method is the old fashioned direct wire with the thingy on the circuit breaker in the main box. No one seems enamored with that which may be a reason for the code to be under revision. However, right now at least, that old way would still meet code (in my jurisdiction). 4) I suspect that if I applied for the permit and had the plug run through the 9" cabinet to a GFCI outlet under the sink that it would pass inspection because doing it that way makes sense of the code. Apparently when the code does not define a particular word, then dictionary definitions can be used to supply the meaning. "Adjacent" means "near"; directly adjacent means "right next to". No one would ever have to say "directly adjacent to" if "adjacent to" already means "directly". 5) I may wait a few months to apply for a permit with he hope that the inspector forgets that someone called and pressed him on "adjacent". I think what I am going to do is have the plug run through the 9" cabinet to a GFCI under the sink and also have the holes in the sides of the cabinets have the wire protected with cable management grommets (to prevent any abrasion). I strongly suspect from what I've been reading that through a few cabinet is what is typically done and if this inspector sees it that way he won't think anything about the meaning of "adjacent". As a HO, I want my plug to be in the most likely place - under the sink. If it doesn't pass I'll have it rewired and a thingy place on the circuit breaker.

We installed a plug mold along the full length of the underside of our island. Our notoriously picky inspector didn't have any issue with that (and we love the convenience of having power easily available everywhere). I can't think of a reason why an individual outlet would be any worse -- other than you maybe having to install additional outlets every couple of feet. Personally, I would always err on the side of having more rather than fewer outlets. You never know when you will need to plug in a couple of appliances at the same time. And plug-in power strips are a big nuisance. We have plug molds in many places, and quad outlets in other places.