Most all steel and fiberglass door manufacturers use "commodity" inserts for full lite, half lite, 9 lite, 15 lite, etc glass inserts. They don't make that part (plastic frame with glass inside) but instead cut the hole in the door blank and insert the glass made by specialty manufacturers that service the door making industry. They are referred to as commodity inserts because usually inserts from different companies are interchangeable. They are sold with both inside/outside trim AND the glass as mulchmamma said, and you have to double-check the sizes. My company was just able to sell (10) 9 lite (same size as 1/2 lite)sets to a company on the other side of the country WITHOUT the glass. They loved this of course because it saved them a fortune on shipping (weight) and they got to re-use their perfectly good glass anyway. You didn't say what your window was. For example the units i spoke of were 23 3/4"W x 37 3/4"H, measured to the outside dimensions.

Just my personal opinion, but I don't care for steel doors. One tap of my fingernails and I can tell if a door is steel. It just seems too cold and industrial for a residence, plus they dent. Although if that's what your budget requires, I'm sure they're fine. They look fine as long as you don't touch them, and I think they're secure, etc.

There is no way to see the existing door/frame assembly---so no way to come up with the correct advice. Is the door causing a problem, or is the frame causing a problem. If you replace the door, and the frame is bad, you still have a problem. If there are no problems and you just want a new door, then that is relatively simple. You will need some tools for the job. Home improvement stores sell door holesaw kits that will drill the hardware holes for about $20. The mortices for the hinges---those are the cutouts in the door where the hinges set in----have to be cut. A very sharp chisel and hammer can cut those, or there are jigs sold at the HI stores and other places for using a router with a straight bit for making the mortices. Drill bits for predrilling the screw holes are a good idea---VIX bits center and drill screw holes. You may also need a hand/power plane or a saw to trim if the new door is larger. Measure the old door---width and height. Get the new exterior door you like that is the closest but larger size. If either the width or height is less, the door will not fit properly. Set up two saw horses. lay the new door on the saw horses. If it has an inside/outside, make sure the inside faces up. Remove the old door, by removing the hinge pin, and hardware and lay it on the new door, aligning the lockset side and the top. Mark the holes for the lock set and also mark any part of the door on the hinge side or bottom that needs trimmed---using the old door as a pattern. Trim off any of the new door that needs trimming. Lay the new door back on the saw horses and the old door on top again. Align the top/sides/marked hardware hole and make sure the new door is now an exact copy. Now mark the hinge mortices. That means top and bottom as well as how far the hinge is inset in the width of the old door. Make sure they are exactly the same as the old door. Cut the mortices and install the hinge halves---predrilling the screw holes. Hang the new door and double check the location of the marks for the hardware holes. Cut the hole for the latch---in the edge of tew door first, using the alignment marks and the plastic template in the door holesaw kit. Then drill the knob hole, stopping just short of drilling all the way through the door. Finish the hole fron the opposite side to prevent chipping. Install the old/new hardware and you are done. If you do not think you can do these steps exactly---1/16" off will result in the door not fitting ----then getting a pro willm be less expensive than ruining a door and then getting a pro.

Let's me try to take more photos and update. Sorry the ones I have is low resolution. Sammy, the glass on top of the door is to bring more lighting into the house and stairs. It doesn't have to be directly on top but a square glass between ceiling and top of the door. Don't you think it's a good idea though? NHBabs z4b-5a NH, over time when we have guests and 1 person standing outside and 2 inside, the door is always swing back and forth while we talk and it is stucked in the middle. Two people standing inside is impossible with the door is 1 foot against the stair. Also when we have packages and left inside right at the entrance, it's very tough to move around the door between upstair and downstair... I would also think shaving 2-4" might not help it either for the space limitation but just thinking...