I would move them half way to the faucet.

Do you absolutely need an air gap? Only California building code still requires it, which is antiquated. Dishwashers today come with a "high loop hose" which negates the need for an air gap. If your dishwasher has a high loop hose, but you live in California so need the air gap for an inspection, what people do is when the inspection is complete, they replace the air gap with a soap dispenser - the holes are the same size. So if you want to do that, you would not need the two holes plus the faucet hole. Just one hole plus the faucet hole.

Yeah, I'm in California. I asked multiple plumbers already. I might installl a hot dispenser or insinkerator button in the future.

OK, if you think you will replace the air gap with the "Insinkerator button" - the correct term is "air switch" - then you should keep the placement the way you show in your OP. You don't want the air switch too close to the faucet handle because wet hands at the faucet handle will be constantly dripping on it. While the air switch can withstand some dripping, daily dripping might be too much for it.

As to a hot water dispenser, if you want to start some debating, just post asking on this forum asking whether a hot water dispenser is worthwhile haha. That will get people heated up (sorry). Me, I am in the anti-hot water dispenser camp. I have had them. They don't get the water hot enough for tea, the hot water tastes stale from sitting in the dispenser pipe until you need it, and the hot water dispenser gets easily clogged and stuck if you have minerals in your water. But other people love them.

Yeah, we've had it and used it a lot. I'm guessing not all hot water dispensers are created equal. So, your suggestion is to go with the first (red) or secon (blue) option? I added the second option later and it seems a bit more balanced. And, yeah, I know this is all very 'detail oriented'.

I had not seen your added pics with my previous comment. I don't think the math works for the first one in red. Even though your sink is 30" wide, the interior of your sink may not be, it may be more like 28.5" interior, so check that both for the red version and the blue one. In any case, you don't want to the soap dispenser so far in the corner that you can't stick a sponge or pan under it for a squirt of soap. My sink is 26" interior, and I just checked and my soap dispenser is 8" from the centered faucet.

We have soap on left and air seitch on right positioned like last picture. works great. soap swapped out for air gap after inspection of course.

Instead of a hot water dispenser, some people get hot water recirculation pumps that bring nearly-instant hot water to all of your faucets -- kitchen and bathroom. I've considered it for myself but haven't pulled the trigger yet.

I keep my disposal switch under the sink.

Basically, I recommend keeping the area as seamless as possible. My air gap gets so gross right at the seam where it attaches to the counter, I have to clean it with a toothbrush. Some of that grossness is on the inside edges too, I have to occasionally take the top off to clean it. I can only imagine a soap dispenser or any kind of button would be the same. It's fine if you have to have an air gap to pass inspection, and plan on replacing it with soap, but I'd skip all of the other things.

Can’t put the soap dispenser too close to the corner of the sink anyway

The interior is 30 inches. I agree on the grime concerns but I think that’s an issue with any soap dispenser. Air gap is unfortunate but I’ve seen it in action twice in the past.

Air gap is only needed if the dishwasher is incorrectly installed.

I have never had an air gap so not really sure about that but I do not like built in soap dispensers I have never found ones that actully function forever and there are awesom counter ones that are very attractive and if they make you crazy put it under the sink at least when it dies you do not have a hole in the counter to fill

To be clear: the OP says they're in California and already asked many plumbers, so the air gap needs to stay in order to pass inspection.

So.... can I clarify something here? If the DW is installed with a high loop, you don't need an air gap? Can anyone explain why that's ok?

When my new DW was installed, I tried to talk the guys into doing a high loop so I could remove my air gap, and they said that was a bad idea. That if there's a backup, waste water could potentially go into the DW, even with a high loop.