Your Home have a Whole House Generator?
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Home Generator- Connecting to the house
Comments (28)My reply is based upon the following facts. 1. There is no connection from the local power grid to your cabin. 2. The person that originally wired this cabin, followed the standard practices of the trade and the work conforms to the electrical code, including.......proper grounding of all aspects of the system. 3. And that the existing wiring system in the cabin was set up to receive 120/240 volt AC grid power at some point in the future, if it became available. The way I see it, you have two choices. You can either use a "whole house" transfer switch that will allow you to choose between the existing solar power supply or the genset. OR...... you can simply disconnect the wires from the solar power supply and tape them off inside the main panel for your cabin (fuse box/breaker box). You don't need to actually remove the wire from the fuse box itself. This would allow you to easily reconnect the solar power supply system in the future, should the need arise. The purpose of a transfer switch is to provide 100% isolation between two differing sources of power. So, one way or the other, this isolation must take place. IF you don't isolate the solar system from the genset, then the genset will feed power back into the solar supply. Damage may be done but even if it does not do damage, the solar system is a potential loss of wattage from your genset and you could also have a fire and electrical hazard. Once you disconnect the wires from the solar supply unit, you can install the correct wiring between the fuse box and wherever you are placing the genset. If your panel is a standard residential fuse or circuit breaker panel, then it requires 240 volts plus a neutral wire to connect to the genset. You also need to make sure that all grounding issues are taken care of. Some how, your genset must be grounded to the cabin's system. If you are not sure of how to go about this, then hire a licensed electrician to perform the work. Better to be safe, than electrocuted. You also need to consider that many gensets use about a gallon of gasoline per hour of run-time. If it was me, I would be looking at a diesel genset so that I could install a lockable fuel oil tank in the 250 to 500 gallon size on the property. The thought of transporting several five gallon cans of gas in my car wouldn't thrill me. No matter how hard you try not to, you will spill fuel from those containers. Gasoline is a highly inflammable and explosive fuel. You don't want those fumes inside your vehicle. Having a permanent tank that is refueled by a company with a tank truck has many benefits. Plenty of reserve fuel that is far more stable than gas and no worries about refueling a hot engine....See MoreWhole house generator?
Comments (2)As already stated, pick your fuel. Natural gas is the first choice since it is inexpensive and you don't need to store it. If you can not get nat gas and you have propane already, that might be a choice, but you may want a bigger tank. Gasoline and diesel are harder to store than either gas. You don't seem to be in this category, but I'll put it down anyway. Natural gas can not be used in critical (life and limb danger) applications where power interruptions can not be tolerated. Natural gas service might be interrupted unless you compress and store it on site. Even then, you can't practically transport it in if there is prolonged outage. Next you decide what size you want. You have two choices here with additional choices within one. You can buy a genset with enough power to run the whole house. There are two disadvantages to that. First, it might be costly at the start. Second, running at a fraction of its full power most of the time, it will be inefficient consuming a lot of fuel. You can buy a smaller generator that is reasonably-sized to run part of your loads. A transfer panel will power what you choose within the capacity. You don't get to power more stuff unless you run extension cords and unplug something else. More recently, automatic load-shedding equipment has become more available for residential applications. They are more flexible than a simple automatic transfer switch. You can buy stuff that will choose between your loads. You plug in a number for the priority and the equipment chooses what it can run. For example, if the refrig and freezer can't run with the central air at the same time, the controls will wait until one of the former turns off before the central air comes on. If none of those things are running, your water heater might kick in. The sump pump in the basement might be the highest priority of all. In my mind, one drawback might be reliability. With sophistication often comes problems. I have no idea what the record of these systems really is. The other is expense. If fuel is not an issue, it might be less expensive to just install a big, dumb generator. There are companies that specialize in genset installation. You'll need at least one person with trade creeds, an electrician. Depending on the fuel, a plumber will be needed as well. I'd think that a permit will be necessary....See MoreWhole house standby generator advice...
Comments (2)The gas usage for the weekly test isn't going to amount to much. I've got an 80KVA Generac and even with three years of weekly tests and a few days of actual operation, I've still hardly dented my propane tank (don't use propane for much else). I doubt you'll having a problem with any electrician competent to do the install having a problem with you doing all the gas line installation, concrete work, and heavy lifting. They'd just have to sub that out anyhow. Sounds like you've got the unloading dealt with (I'd like to talk to you about which four post you got, I've been looking and a BendPak myself). The other solution I've heard is to contact a towing company with a rollback (flatbed truck). You can transfer it to the rollback and if you can back the rollback close to where it goes, then you can tilt the thing off the truck (they will have a winch even). To move something like this (I've moved heavy equipment including pipe organs) a great tool (you can rent these) is a "Roll-a-Lift". Essentally it's a pair of hydraulic jacks on rollers that you can lift the unit up and then roll it around fairly easily....See Morehave you done concrete stained floors in your whole house?
Comments (4)Better try a sample project first. It ain't as easy as YouTubers make it seem. You'll pay extra for the needed power troweling of the slab, and still will end up with divots and humps. Acid staining isn't readily visible as it's happening because it's a chemical reaction. By the time the slab gets the color that you like, it's too late, and you should ghave already neutralized. Wax is the worst possible ''protective'' coating. Your grandmother gave it up eons ago for a reason. A two part epoxy is the better, if much more tricky to do. This ain' for a casual DIYer who wants magazine resuts. And it rules out any other flooring choice other than a floating floor if you botch it. Unless you grind off the coatings completely....See Morededtired
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