I think that you should only consider sight lines. In your case everyone will be coming in the door and presumably looking dead ahead. you'll get the most bang (since I assume you'll have some fabulous fixture in your entry) if you centre the lights on the door. Also a centred light viewed through the transom windows above a front door is a great warm greeting from the street (if your door is surrounded by glass). I went through the build process recently myself (moved in two months ago) trust me, you can't over think this stuff. There are tiny details all over the place now that I wish I had given more consideration. They don't spoil the experience of my new house, it's not that bad, but they do draw my eye in over and over and over. One of those niggling issues is my dining room light fixture which is centred on the dimensions of the room per plan, but does not account for the fact that the dining room opens to both a hall and my foyer so visual appears much bigger.

We have the same problem in our dining room. And the real 'ACK' part is that we gutted our whole kitchen/dining area and removed the old ceiling, so we could have addressed it properly the first time. Once the new dining room table was in, it was obvious we would be moving it off centre (pathway to deck is behind table), and we're kicking ourselves. DH is planning to buy a plaster medallion to put up on the ceiling, so that the edge of it will cover the old hole. Luckily, he is an electrical engineer, so he can do the rewiring. I COULD patch the hole, but what a LITERAL pain in the neck. So not only will the fixture be off-centre, but medallion will be too. I am pretty sure it will cost you more than $35 extra on top of the first $35 to rewire in a new location- assuming there is enough wire up there to allow the move. Ours is accessible from the attic.

How old is your house? Has it been fully rewired? It's not at all uncommon to see ceiling fixtures with no junction boxes in old (typically pre-war) houses. That was allowed by code with knob and tube wiring. The wires had to be encased in loom, a woven cambric tubing, for mechanical protection. The fixture canopy served as the junction box. A more remote possibility is that there's a box in the ceiling, but some careless person patching or skim-coating the ceiling got a big glob of mud or plaster in the box. A third possibility is that your house, or at least that outlet, was wired by an ignoramus. As for what lights to use, you might visit a lighting store for ideas. I find fixture shopping online frustrating unless I already know exactly what I want. I don't recommend recessed cans or disc lights except where the ceiling is so low that normal lights threaten tall people's heads. Those fixtures are all direct light. What you want for good even lighting is a combination of direct light (fixture to room) and indirect light (fixture to ceiling to room). Reading or working under cans is like reading or working in direct sun. Reading under indirect light is more like reading in the shade on a summer day - more relaxing, and better for the eyes. Also, be aware that some LED disc lights have surprisingly low efficacy (lumens per watt). Compared to normal surface mount fixtures with retrofit LED bulbs in them, some of them use twice as much electricity for a given amount of light.

I guess I'll have an electrician decide what to do. My brother is an electrician but was trying to get an idea of how to handle. If he splits 4 wafer lights off this then It can't be covered? I know once he adds the lights I'll have to go in by the attic and move insulation to get wiring through unless there's an easier way to run white for wafers