As a Decorator and Home Staging Specialist I spend a lot of time shopping in general, particularly for great buys on a website called Craigslist.org for my clients too, but mostly for myself. It provides the ability for buyers and sellers to come together like eBay does, without the need for auctions or any fees. It is all done locally, so there usually isn't any shipping involved. It's amazing to see how quickly Craigslist has taken off in so many major and minor cities. Daily there are free items up for grabs, listings for garage sales and any items from artwork and bedding to cars, appliances and clothing! It truly is a great way to save money and recycle, so you're helping the planet too with fewer items in landfills! As with most things in life, there is a certain level of etiquette that needs to be adhered to for all to be happy in the world of online selling and buying. Below I've listed some guidelines for both buyers and sellers. Sellers: You've decided to do a little 'spring cleaning' and have several items you want to post. Setting up an account is very easy and fast. It allows you to edit your posting later if needed, add/remove photos and re-post days later again if necessary until sold. When posting an item or grouping of items be sure to provide photos (if possible) and provide an accurate description including whether the items are new, new in box, gently used or very worn. If you are misleading, the buyer can refuse the item when they see it, and that just wastes everyone's time. Pricing your items can be tricky. The object of Craigslist is to sell items at a reasonable price, similar to a garage sale but not necessarily as low. Feel free to list what you paid for the item, what it is selling for new and provide a link to compare so your price really stands out. This is not generally the place to sell a $5,000 sofa or period piece. It's not impossible, but those are the posts that I see up for several months often with no sale-an antique store would be more suitable for those items. Ensure you add the words "Serious inquiries only please" at the bottom of your posting. I find this minimized the amount of bogus calls and emails that come my way. Here is a link that might be useful: moving box kit

I recommend 18 gauge wiring for chimes. Some installers use 24 gauge telephone cable. The chimes often sound very weak with 24 gauge. Some parallel the 24 gauge conductors for better performance. I have installed three chimes on a 30va transformer. Never have installed four on one control circuit. If the results are not good, search for an 18 volt transformer. Here is a link that might be useful: Nutone

Are you comfortable running the wire from your doorbell to where you’d mount the transformer? If so, that is literally the hardest part of installing a wired doorbell. I just installed mine without an existing wired doorbell. I was lucky as the spot I wanted to mount it was in close proximity to interior trim. I pulled the trim away from the wall, and my vinyl siding away from the exterior wall (not required) and drilled a tiny hole for the bell wire. Make sure to caulk the hole, but not until you confirm the bell is working and no issues with the wire. I DO have a basement, and my utility room happened to be just below my front door which worked out great. As others mentioned, transformers fail, so I opted for a plug in ELK 16v transformer so it could be easily replaced without having to turn off a breaker. For a direct wired Ring, you also need to call them and get a free adapter (basicslly an in-line fuse) to put between the bell and the transformer. You will also need a separate chime if you want one. Last but not least, you need to have a pretty good wireless signal where the doorbell will be installed. Your signal will directly affect your video quality and speed of accessing the bell from the app.

pookieman- You're not going to find a doorbell that works without some power source. 2. Enlarging the hole enough to get at the wires will only work if it's big enough to splice extensions on to the existing wires, and that would require stripping insulation off the ends of the wires in the hole, soldering or crimping new extensions on, and insulating the splices if necessary... which would likely require a bigger hole than you want, and some fairly good DIY skills. 3. It might be easier to cut into sheetrock on the inside to get access to the wire ends and repair them, and then do a sheetrock repair. 4. The only other option I can think of is to fish a new wire into the wall and run it back to the transformer.