What an awful mess  One suggestion that has proven helpful to me in sorting out certain disagreements in the past. Go ahead and sit down and write an account of what happened. Record your memory of conversations, the days / hours he worked, etc. Keep notes brief and clear. Even the posts here are evidence of your intentions to create a safe entrance that added value and beauty to your home. You may have other notes, e-mails, etc. that refer to your project and your intention in hiring a "pro". The point of this exercise is to leave your options open. You may decide to do nothing, learn from the experience, and, as my Dad used to say, "overwhelm the problem with money". But, should you decide to pursue a fair resolution, having things in writing  even after the fact  will help. Next, make a decision about legal advice. The funny thing here is that you would again be accepting assistance from a pro. Twice in recent years I've needed a lawyer's opinion. My upbringing schooled me to avoid litigation like an unseemly plague, so the need was only pursued with great reluctance. In the first instance, one involving a need to sort out an issue with a government agency, I lucked into a lawyer who was willing to "coach" me in what to research, letters to write, and keeping a careful record. I paid her absolutely nothing. That matter took about 12 months to resolve. Courts, litigation, almost always take much longer. If I were you, I think I'd be feeling like I'd been robbed. We hire a pro to do professional work. It's an assumption, but I don't know if it holds as a legal standard. I can tell you that in gathering quotes from three companies that do paving work for a project at my home, not one of them suggested anything less than a 8" to 12" inch base. The area we wanted paved had been a gravel bed (previous owners) and my spouse wanted to know if that material could be reused somehow. Looking back, I suppose that was an open opportunity for abuse, which none of the contracters we spoke to was willing to take. As one of the contracter's put it, "Even if this gravel were usable, I want to do the job right from base to finish  We'll clean it out, start from scratch, and get the grade corrected in the process." Since then, I've read quite a bit here at the LD forum, so I've heard chapter and verse a few times on installing paths and patios. With very rare exceptions, and even those are debated, the base is the thing. Without it, the beauty, function, and durability of the finished surface is compromised. As you stated  for your entry you wanted things done right. That should have included the standard base for a well-built and beautiful entrance pathway. Hope things work out well and soon  Wellspring

To parma42: If the existing paint is in good condition and isn't too much darker than the color you want to apply, you can just clean and sand lightly without priming. You should be prepared to do two coats, though. I have rarely been able to get away with one coat on furniture. Make sure you let the first coat dry completely, too.

In a "high durability needed" area like that...I can't imagine NOT priming.... * Scuff-sand thouroughly with ~ 100-grit paper. 120 is TOO fine to be of much use here. * Sand until the scratches are minimized to your satisfaction. Get every molecule of dust wiped off. Here's a statement that may surprise a few out there!!! >>> In THIS case...I'd apply THREE coats of the Oil primer, about 2 hrs. apart. >>> Reason?: * You'll be building a lightly sandable layer as a last "polishing-off/filling" opportunity b4 the CC. * If you can, wait until next day for primer-coats to harden-off. The wait makes this last "fine-tuning" sanding go easier. You're gonna lightly sand this primer-sandwich. * Think of sheetrockers doing their last sanding b4 painting. NOW...you've built the ideal base for your CC to show its absolute best. Stir the CC thouroughly, scraping the bottom and sides as ya go, using slow/lifting motions. Preferably, have it machine-shaken. You may have to strain it through nylons, or a disposable paint-strainer. If it doesn't smell "sour", you're golden! Faron PS...DEFINITELY...TWO coats of CC!

Yes, I agree with the last 2 posts-JonMon and Mark. You WILL have to strip whatever is on your deck currently. My goal in life is to work with wood products that don't have to ever be stripped. We are still stripping the exterior of our clapboard house that has 130 years of peeling paint build up. That is how we came to learn about Allback Paint. Linseed paint has been used for hundreds of years. If you ever tour Mt Vernon, President George Washington used it. However, the new products are greatly improved by purification process. Linseed products protects and nourishes the wood and leaves it breathable so there is never trapped moisture and a plastic coat to peel. The draw back is the slower dry time. There are no chemical accelerators. This fact makes the product "GREEN" for the environment. Hot dry days are a perfect time for painting Boiled Linseed. To find out more about Purified Boiled Linseed try the link posted or call Soren or Collete at Viking Sales. They have been most helpful to me. Be sure to ask them if your climate will allow the Boiled Linseed products to cure properly. I live in the mid-central states. We had 30 days of 100 degree weather this year. I am still researching Floor Shield USA and Lifeline Endure at 1-800-548-3554. If I cannot find a longer lasting product that doesn't need stripping to re-coat than the AllBack products, I will definitely be using the Linseed Varnish mentioned in the link. Strip a deck once and you're desperate to never do it again. Here is a link that might be useful: Silent Paint Remover and Allback Paint