It's not you Andrew, that pot IS way too big for that plant! Hi Kecia, I tried to write out a response the other night; apparently GW was having problems & I was not able to post what I'd written (unfortunately, I hadn't saved it. I'll try to remember what I was writing.) I'd been about to say that soil still needs more fast draining material help (as Josh said). I'd add around 30% more perlite at least (not just bark). These plants seem to do better in plastic pots than terra cotta (helps them not dry out so fast). This is a plant whose size of pot is determined by size of rootball, not how much foliage there is (that may not be obvious). These plants don't have large root systems, I think it'd be best to have a pot only 2" (maximum) larger than the rootball. Rather than mixing in the bark as you said you would, if it were mine, I'd unpot it completely. I'd check the roots for any damage or rot, trim any dry brittle roots, amend the soil as discussed above & then put it in a much smaller plastic pot. The problem of such a large pot is that the soil stays wet too long, longer than the roots can take it up. The remaining moisture then interferes w/ the roots' ability to breathe as it were, that is to get air, not just water. By the way, take some cuttings off the healthiest growth & start another pot just to be on the safe side. Sorry, if it's not a quick or easy answer, but I suggest you unpot it NOW, not wait 'til it recovers. I think it needs the repot to help in its recovery. These are pretty sturdy plants, I think it'll be OK. Pls. make sure the next pot has a drainage hole (can't tell if this one does). Good luck!

Jen, it's been a while since I had a Ti, but living in IL, mine had to come indoors in winter. Once spring came, I set out in 'full sun'. The more sun colors are more pronounced.. In winter, I use a humidifier, mist daily, and only water when soil feels dry..(also in summer) Overwatring will cause root rot. The sad thing growing Ti's indoors is they're prone to spider mites..So, check plant thoroughly. Some mites are difficult detecting..especially in early stages. and we all know how destructive those little critters are. Good luck, Toni

OK, try this. It is sometimes done to gnarly and woody roses to get a bit more basal action. Make a little incision, just through the top cambium layer (I use my thumbnail). The cut needs to go between a 1/4 tp 1/3rd of the way round the trunk. This can stimulate a dormant bud into sprouting just below the cut. Ut is similar to pruning (when breaking apical dominance or adjusting lateral growrg)...but without the severity of actually removing branches. eta apols for any futire posting - my desklight has just carked it and all the letters on my keyboard have worn off - o am not bothering endlessly cottecting my typing as my last post took an hout of teethgrinding and guessing

That sounds beautiful! I was out in Vancouver last fall and was amazed at the green ones that were everywhere. I knew they grew there but to ssee some of those tres in person I was so happy. So I just did some checking back in old photos. I have had it late winter for the past 3 years. It does out grow it and not having to treat it. I always thought it was from the cooler temps in Jan, now I know! As far as I have noticed nothing around it gets infected.