I have two Galley sinks and I am so diapointed with them. I would love to remove them, but I cannot without destroying my counters because of the way these sinks mount, which is different from most kitchen sinks. Just be aware, that when you purchas a Galley sink, it is permanent unless you want to redo your counters too. What I don't like about them is how messy they look. I have a busy household, so lots of dishes and every time the water is turned on, it spots the sink unless I hand dry it. This is impracticle for a busy home. Food sticks to the sides of the sink easily and the corners are very hard to clean. Also, the ledge where the boards rest, gets wet because of dish washing so the caulking breaks down easily and there is a moldy rim around the edge of the sink becuase of this design. (I had the caulking fixed within a year, but it happens in a matter of weeks) . I contacted the company and they sent me a product to clean it, but the product was like other products I can buy and the problem is the design and the materials. The company also comes acorss as uncaring and poorly skilled when dealing with customer disapointments. I had a stainless steel sink before and never experienced it looking like this, I actually liked that sink. Also, their bamboo boards broke down very easily. I had new boards made out of walnut and my new boards have lasted two years getting wet daily, with no extra drying from me and they look great. I think Galley sinks wants to be this fancy company but it's just cheap materials, cheap product, cheap customer service. Again, I wish I could remove them, but I cannot without destroying my counters and my counters are so expenisve that I am stuck with these horrible sinks. Good luck with your house remodel!

I am wondering the same thing. I just decided it would be a good idea to get the Stages 45 sink (the basin size on the 33 was looking too smal). I had planned to get a nice modernist faucet like the beautiful Vola https://cdn.remodelista.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img/sub/uimg/06-2012/700_faucets-vola-faucets.png or one of its many knock-offs like the Kohler Purist: http://www.homedepot.com/p/KOHLER-Purist-Single-Handle-Pull-Out-Sprayer-Kitchen-Faucet-in-Polished-Chrome-K-7505-CP/202388611 I DEFINITELY need a sprayer, whether pull-out or separate. But would that be enough to reach all corners of this big boy, if I put it in the center (or any optimal spot)? I hate those Karbon faucets, and I don't even like the huge arcing ones that look like a hose is over the sink. Would one plain ol' fairly petite kitchen faucet with a pull out or separate next door sprayer be enough, or will I need two faucets? I hope not as I'm not fond of how that looks either and our plumbing is complicated enough. Any advice/experience?? Thanks!

@C. First of all, if you are 5'10" and have really bad back pain, then a 38" countertop height might still be too low for you. I'm barely 5'7" when when standing up as straight as I can, and a 38 3/4" countertop height is very comfortable for me. At 5'10", you could easily go up to a 40" countertop height. It is uncommon for kitchen designers to specify countertops much higher than 40" for anyone except a frequent kitchen user who is taller than 6 feet in order to retain the general usability for varying heights of potential users, but you may always do what you find best for yourself. I would encourage you to do a mockup of a 40" countertop height and try different tasks like chopping on a cutting board and stirring in mixing bowls to see how you like it. Remember that you should allow 1/2" for cabinetry leveling, so find your perfect height, and then subtract 1/2" (from the total of cabinetry plus countertop) when placing your order. The minimum possible front countertop ledge width is determined by factors which contribute to the risk of a break. I will guarantee you that ledge width in your picture is probably wider in person than it may appear here. Few fabricators will cut a continuous ledge (meaning without seams) less than 2 1/2" to 3" wide, and some fabricators will even burden you with a 4" or greater ledge, though that is excessive. The Galley issues guidelines for cutting the sink hole with no seams around the hole, but this technique complicates the handling and transport of the piece because that area is so delicate once it is cut. If I understand, correctly your countertop will only be 1/2" thick which may mean that you are using porcelain or something of that nature, and in that case, the substrate will dictate that you will need a seam for a narrow front ledge rather than having the sink cut from the middle. Porcelain is already fragile, and it won't survive the handling, transport, and installation with a pre-cut, narrow, continuous sink ledge. Be cautious of any fabricator who wants to install steel rods to help stabilize a front sink ledge. Those rods can get wet and swell and cause future breakage. The best policy is to avoid rod reinforcement. In terms of ergonomics, the height of your countertop and the height of your sink is relatively more important than how far forward you stand to the sink, but if you have really bad back pain and want to give your best effort to eliminating that in your kitchen, then an apron-front sink still needs to be on your list for consideration. I regularly operate within the full confines of the apron front which brings dishes and other tasks such as cleaning the sink very close to my body and allows me to stand mostly upright. It is the leaning forward at a sink that strains your back, and you will lose at least a hand width's advantage with a non-apron-front sink of your ability to work closer to your body to minimize leaning. For many people this is not an issue, and due to the fact that non-apron-front sinks are usually less expensive and more plentiful in terms of brands and styles, plus more aesthetically pleasing in many instances, the majority of kitchen remodelers are not using apron-fronts. Both Rachiele and Havens offer texturing for their stainless steel sinks, and if you look at their portfolios, you'll see that a hammered or otherwise textured finish is actually very pretty for an apron front sink. I have a textured finish, and it hides water spots and scratches and it looks as new today as it did several years ago when I had it installed. My only caution is that the interior of the sink should preferably be smooth to aid with cleaning. I believe that texturing can be applied only to the forward-facing and top ledge part of the apron front if you like that look. Spillage over the apron front is not a problem for me. Every now and then, I might get a small drip down the apron front, maybe after loading the dishwasher with something wet, but nothing more than you would sometimes get from a sink with a ledge that gets water on the front ledge and drips down occasionally. I would be hard pressed to say if I even have to wipe drips of water off the apron front even once per week. It just really is not a problem for me. It sounds like you are on the right track to helping with your ergonomics. As I mentioned earlier, your first step is to see if you can raise those countertops up to 40". If you do a lot of bread kneading or something where you need your arms straight down, you might consider doing dual levels somewhere in the kitchen. Generally, 41" to 42" is the upper stretch of a modified countertop height, and that would be for someone taller than 6 feet. The reason that we don't like to raise the countertop much more than that is because then they become unusable for people who are shorter. However, at a height of 5'10" with back problems, 40" is not at all out of reason. Be aware that if you wear shoes with thick soles when you are working in the kitchen or if you intend to put down a comfort mat on the floor that has substantial thickness, those factors could alter how you feel about your cabinetry height. Mocking up a height and doing various tasks is the most reliable way to determine what is best for you.

I consider a chrome faucet a neutral and IMHO goes with most everything. Same with your glass door hardware. I would do chrome rather than ORB. I’ve shown you pics of the house I did for my daughter previously but don’t have a good one of the faucet together with the black Ikea Bagganas hardware we installed. We initially bought chrome cup pulls but switched to a simple black. Are you considering the black cup pulls in the kitchen you like? I do not think that the white quartz would make it look like a huge monolithic expanse at all. It may be a better choice if you are seriously considering the turquoise tile. I think either black or brass would look great. Not sure about mixing. I found it extremely helpful to snap a picture of my room and then paste the lights and hardware I’m considering using MS Paint. Helps to see it all together. It would also be a good idea to start a new thread in Kitchens and Home Decorating related to finishes so possibly some of the pros can chime in. They can give better advice than me about mixing metals. I have chrome on my main floor and just added antique brass to my pink powder and laundry.