Feedback on kitchen layout - IKEA - small galley
AMS
4 years ago
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AMS
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Layout of Small Galley Kitchen - Image 2
Comments (0)Here are the elevations! THANKS THANKS THANKS! Image link:...See MoreLayout Gurus: 2 sinks in small galley kitchen?
Comments (21)Couple of ideas... Try moving the ref to the other end of the run and slide the entire range units up towards the dining room. Since its just paper, I'd also try disposing of the small pantry beside the dining room and increasing the amount of counter around the range. Perhaps add 6 inches or so onto the other tall unit. David's 2 sink idea or doing something like a stages sink with two faucets is about the best two worker idea in the least counter room. Also, there is no compelling reason for keeping the sink centered in the entire run. So if the range moved towards dining and the sink moved towards the eat-in space? Try centering it on the pony wall opening. Opinions.... Since the family room is a little small (no knock intended - our house is too small to even have one), perhaps think about shelves on the back of the sink run facing the family room and keeping the counter all one height. There is always something about the multiple heights and depths that creates visual confusion and makes a room feel smaller. Having a slightly wider aisle in a galley is actually a benefit in a two cook kitchen. Our previous kitchen had a 5 foot aisle and I really liked it. I think a lot of people like whatever they are used to. ANY aisle is too far carrying dripping veg or full pots. So, this drawing incorporates another sink by sacrificing the little pantry. It also shows a different way of treating the counter extension (all of the pony wall is buried) and the counter becomes a big project prep space. By adding a second sink, the two-bowl sink can become a single large bowl instead. If you stay with a single sink placement, I encourage you to place it where it creates the most benefit for you. Centering the sink on the run doesn't seem to be the best place to me. There isn't a "vista" of the centered side for the most part, so it isn't going to matter to visitors....See MoreSmall galley kitchen remodel layout
Comments (16)Since you're considering moving the door, why not move the door to center it on the room, opposite the hallway door? Here are pics of 8' wide kitchens to give you an idea what that would look like: [Contemporary Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2103) by New York Architects & Designers Beinfield Architecture PC [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Mountain View General Contractors Nunley Custom Homes [Contemporary Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2103) by Sonoma Architects & Designers Amy A. Alper [Eclectic Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/eclectic-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2104) by Sonoma Architects & Designers Amy A. Alper On this last kitchen, I would prefer to have the fridge placed closest to the hallway entry so that people getting items from the fridge don't have to cross the cooking zone to get to it. Have you checked with your city's code? You may need to move the range when you remodel, especially if that's an opening window above it. Then your set-up would be very much like the last kitchen I posted....See MoreCritique this Layout of Small Galley Kitchen
Comments (12)fridge behemoth is the big thing ; choose its place first. Easier said than done! What spot is best in your house? I dunno. I can't think of any advantage gained by putting the fridge on that wall and having a larger pantry. There are massive amounts of storage in frameless base drawers. AND, you could use your basement for a little bit of overflow storage if you bought in bulk and needed a temporary holding spot for a little while. Your storage goal is to keep turnover going so nothing gets stale dated, not to store food indefinitely. You don't need more and more and more. Things expand to fill storage available. Have a temporary storage holding spot in the basement, to encourage you all to acquire better habits instead of letting things disappear into "unlimited" storage. Since you are so appreciative, I'll give you my theory of how to lay out a tight galley in a few minutes. First, choose the behemoth sacrifice location. Fridge goes there. Or, go with a drawer fridge under the countertop and HIDE the real fridge somewhere off-site. Second thing to do: make base cabs all "ideal" in an idealized run without thinking of the sink. For bases, frameless is best. For drawers, frameless is best. Third: rejig to accommodate the sink if need be, by moving the cab sides 6" in one direction or the other (and, since these are all wide cabs you can invert 36" and 30"cabs to get the cab sides to where you want them to be). Or daringly plunk the sink into the middle of two cabs (which will force you to install deep drawers under the sink in both cabs. About drawer "height" or true depth in the vertical: don't use the ikea standard drawer sizing. Go deeper. Know that anyone can do this. Blum allows this. From an ikea hardware store, Blum is what you are truly buying, not anything ikea-ey. Ikea is the supplier of Blum thingies. Blum allows you to install the drawer front as you wish, without wasting space under the drawer. Ikea sells a kit which would have your drawer fronts overhang down past the drawer bottom (by a large space). I got rid of that wasted overhang space and nobody risked dying in the process, and no danger has been built in either. Blum tech support people are good to talk to if you need an official voice to hear all this confirmed from an official source. Don't believe anything you read from one guy: double check everything. I also removed the bottom panel of the cabs because it is only needed when the cab is a door fronted storage box, and unnecessary for drawers because drawers only need sides to hold them up. Reinforcing the cab so it remains square is another question that can be answered on another day. Fourth thing to do: understand that there are three situations where you don't need a full new electrical circuit with two 20A and its outlet: one is where you will have a 12" piece of counter between a sink edge and a wall / wall panel / finishing panel. This is f.y.i. if you choose to follow the newest and latest requirements of the electrical section of the building code. It is important if you want to spend less on upgrading electrical, or just to have fewer outlets. I have a few inches more slightly larger piece of countertop without an outlet. Nobody complained! Right next to a sink we didn't want electricity in the corner. Besides, I can always add a circuit in the future because I have a wall / wall panel there, because it's a corner. Another thing: wherever you install a "garage" you have the possibility to play with the outlets more than with a countertop where you are required to ensure there is a double 20A outlet within 24" of any countertop surface. Fifth: put the induction cooktop anywhere without regard to cabinet sides. You can have it straddle sides and be assymetrical too. You can have shallow drawers underneath the cooktop. I did this and many others have done this too. Nobody reports ever that there is a heat or air problem underneath the cooktop. Again, a 12" piece of counter between the wall and the cooktop doesn't require a whole new outlet, but a larger piece of countertop does, by code, so if you disregard that requirement you are technically not following code. Good to know before it becomes a panic decision. Sixth: for the "uppers" on the wall, I'd make one long long long shelf unit. Continuous shelves. No partitioning. Yes, it could have doors on it too. This can be "FACE-frame" built, instead of frameless. For wall units faceframe is best because you get to have continuous shelves. Reach in at any point and your arm can go sideways to grab stuff that is a 5" to 10" beyond the border point that would be there if the door represented a cabinet side. Also, another advantage is that your large objects are not forced to bump against sides. This "packing" advantage is the same reason why large drawers are so much better than narrow drawers. Light up the "uppers" from the inside and you will have made the potentially overpowering wall weight seem light and airy. In planning drawer width, think of the ikeas sizes. In planning drawer height, idealize the sizes you want. These are my steps for extremely small galley kitchens. Hth Here is a link that might be useful: ikea as a parts store...See MoreAMS
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