HVAC and Hot Water Heater Fresh Air Intake???
last year
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HVAC Air to Air Heat Pump
Comments (7)Hello Your heat pump air-to-air sounds like the best options. If you dont need to use it for water the COP is quite high, usually COP-3-4. The COP means a ratio of what you get out vs what you put in. The COP of 3 is 3 times the heaat of what you put in. There are a number, some that get a COP of around 5 using source of 30F. Others list between 3-4 quite generally. Carrier is a maker of one type which has a COP of 3 and is a small size. When the source (outdoor temp) is low the COP goes down as does the output. (Below freezing especially). Its worth having an oil or wood or gas heater to go with the system as back up. Heat pumps that can heat water have to work harder as the water is warmer than the air used in buildings, so they use expensive CO2 heat pumps which will set you back about $5K easily. Therefore I would suggest keeping a boiler system, outdoor boiler. An indoor stove needs fresh air which is not ideal for heat pump system which works ideally with heat recovery on the ventilation system (extract heat from waste air at 90% or so efficiency). A neat approach may be to operate an air -to-air heat pump, aim for as high a COP as possible, but install a gas boiler if you have this. The smaller boilers, condensing systems, are surprisingly cheap. If you install a waste water heat recovery system which is just aa heat exchanger on you waste water from your shower, you can half the energy you need and thereby get by with a smaller boiler and consume only about 4-5kWh/day for shower water. A condensing boiler works most efficiently when working with water heating rather than central heating, and plus, the typical condensing system now heats so quickly that you dont need a hot water tank, reducing loses. You would still have at least 15KW available for heating the home. This can be done by putting in a heating loop into the air ducting that is shared with the air-pump. This could be a compact fan assisted system. There would be expense in heating controls for all the ducting. However, if you cannot put in ducting, then you can install a water radiator central heating system. To work with a heat pump, you can go for the super-efficient CO2 based systems that are emerging but expensive. The efficiency can be raised if the heat is needed at a low temperature, so requiring either under-floor heating or a 'fan assisted radiator' which extract more heat and can return the water to the heat pump much cooler than normal radiators, and require a lower temperature, raising COP. I would go with: Waste water heat exchanger ( I guess $500 est with capital cost $200-$300 plus basic installation if incorporated with a boiler installation and pipework anyway) -this will reduce the energy requirement of the condensing boiler, potentially allowing a smaller system. Condensing boiler - 15-25kW output, 90% efficient, capital cost $500 ebay Air-to-Air heat pump (in loft) - COP 3-5 (later figure seen in an Austrian GSHP but should work with airsource unless outside air is usually very cold?) cost? controls? Fan assisted radiator in ducting for backup (run off boiler)? Ventilation heat recovery...See MoreHVAC Replacement Help
Comments (30)If you get a condensing furnace, I am not sure that relining the way your contractors are describing it is even sufficient. Sometimes that means putting ceramic in previously unlined brick chimneys. Sometimes that means stainless pipe (maybe insulated) as an added flue. There are kits that put concentric, or perhaps individual, plastic pipes up your existing chimney for use with new condensing furnaces and boilers. They are pretty simple to install from what I've seen. The kits have concentric, flexible plastic pipe that is supported by built-in spiders touching the existing flue walls. You can put the intake and flue on separate locations, but I think that care is needed to be sure that wind won't affect overall pressure too much. If the water heater uses the same flue it is problematic. Of course you can't share a plastic flue with a non condensing water heater. The gas is too hot. I don't know the rules for shared flues for condensing equipment either. If this were my home and I faced that plastic flue placement problem, I'd look into this detail. Using your existing flue for an existing gas, low efficiency water heater only is probably going to be problematic in itself because it will be too big for the appliance and cause condensation in cold weather. Google will be your friend here, but others on this board may know the detail as well....See MoreIs there a reliable HVAC cold climate heat pump with hot water tied in
Comments (11)Condensing hot water heater or furnace are probably not an option. Living in a condo, I can't add in a horizontal PVC exhaust since it would change the look of the condos. A vertical one would need to be at least 30 feet long and not sure if they'd ok a new roof vent considering we just had our roofs redone over the summer. The Flue pipe issue. The flue is shared with my downstairs neighbor. It of course runs through a chase through my 2 floors and out the attic. There was a very minor noise issue when they had a yapping dog when it was standing in a certain area, but not an issue any more. Problem is the original builders (Hovnanian) are incompetent at best. The chase also has my neighbors 2 MUA vents and my HVAC return ducts. They put the flue and MUA vents in the wrong place and left hardly any room for the return air. Long story short, space is limited, access to move stuff around is limited, if I don't have to share the flue pipe I can install a smaller size one when I attempt to move it over leaving more space for new return air ducting. This picture is the piece of duct between my return air plenum in the chase connecting to the filter box next to my HVAC unit. You can see the great job they did sealing it. Can't see it but the flue pipe is only an inch or 2 to the left of it. It's an 8 X 20 duct which is about half the size needed from my over 1400 CFM HVAC unit, If you don't over size it by 20 to 25% that people often do for the returns.. Side note, the chase is supposed to be fire rated and all penetrations are supposed to be fire sealed....See MorePLEASE REVIEW HVAC REPLACEMENT QUOTES (HIGH ALTITUDE COLORADO)
Comments (39)If you're using a copy of the Standard that is 20 years old, you're not following best practices. I'm not surprised. I sense you're struggling with it. I sense you're struggling with what I laid out here... to show you that standards change, the homes that were built 20+ years ago do not. Did I not tell you Charles that all you do is build new... yet even with that warning you plod straight ahead without "thinking" about it. Then because you're struggling with it you go on to say that if I am using a standard that is 20 years old that I merely used as a reference point to rope a dope. So you can go back and re-read this to fully understand what I put here... I know how to use Google Search. You've proven in the past you don't know how to use it. I have a unique set of skills. Anyone can beat a nail to death... they even make nail guns now so even a hac like me could do it. So if I were to not be a HAC as in heating and AC, I would then be prescibed to rip the house down the foundation and become someone like you? Thanks I know which lane I'm in, nail beater. I am not in a thread for nail beaters am I? Heating and Air Conditioning is the name of this location on the internet. I know you're not an avid fan of reading and understanding what you read..... I don't think you will convince many to rip a house down to it's foundation. Usually it starts with a gut job down to the studs, then you say... hey look what we found? Yeah we've already come this far might as well just take it right down to the foundation. I own two homes built in late 70's... a bit on the drafty side in that era. You won't convince me to rip these homes down to the foundation Charles. Nice try. ha, ha, ha, ha as in LOL....See More- last year
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