Wow! A rare case where the aesthetics part of the performance-aesthetics-economy: pick-any-two limitation is not a factor in hood selection. But first, given a sealed household, I would strongly recommend obtaining a furnace kit to use outside air. This will avoid the possibility of the MUA system not working perfectly and the hood causing negative house pressure and hence backdrafting of the combustion appliance. I know that such devices exist for Beckett burners, and would guess that there are adapters for other burners. As the OP correctly notes, a 200 cfm ERV is not going to cope with a 1200 cfm vent hood. (Actually, what would happen with a sealed house is that at full power, the hood would pull the cfm the ERV would let through into the now minus a couple of inches w.c. house pressure.) So MUA is essential, and in the mid-Atlantic region would be pretty uncomfortable in winter if unheated. Depending on one's tolerance for heat and humidity, cooling in summer might be optional or not. We are starting to get into the realm where performance-economy, pick any two is applicable. MUA can be roughly characterized as passive or active. By passive is meant no fan in the circuit. Active uses a booster fan to keep the house pressure stable. No-fan only works for simple ducting with a vent hood air flow controlled damper. (A recent post here provided some sources for these.) If a filter is used at 1200 cfm (or whatever flow actually could be pulled with all the doors and windows open, then the house pressure will drop. One can see on websites selling filter packs that the pressure drop at such flow rates is too large for combustion appliance safety, which require negative pressures not be greater than 0.03 to 0.06 inches depending on appliance type. Active is needed to overcome the filter restriction. It may be needed to overcome heating heat exchanger restriction and/or air conditioning heat exchanger (expander) restriction. The difficulty with active is balancing the MUA air flow rate against the variable hood flow rate such that the house pressure is near zero. This usually requires a control system of some sort, and can be a "project." What to do? What to do? Only one free-of-processing-controllers active MUA has occurred to me. In the simplest embodiment, the hood control is connected to two parallel wired identical fans, one in the hood exhaust path and one in the MUA path. Then the two will (try to) operate at nearly the same flow rate at every control setting, and one only needs to adjust the MUA duct restriction until it matches that of the hood path. More exactly, adjust the MUA path so that house pressure falls very little as the hood is turned on. Note that this doesn't account for bathroom fans, fireplaces, or other exhaust flows not due to the hood. In such cases, PID control of the MUA fan would be needed. In my case, due to a 1500 cfm hood, 1000 cfm over-oven vent, fireplace, and three bathroom fan household, I am building an active MUA that will use an axial blower in the 2000 cfm regime. It has to overcome the pressure loss of its intake vent, its filter, and its heat exchanger (which is hot water pumped from my oil burner). Control is via a Fuji PID controller operating from a BAPF differential pressure sensor. The motor power control is not yet selected, and a lot of sheet metal action is still needed, along with further attic revisions that I seem to have trouble getting to at the needed rate. I recommend the OP and/or his HVAC person read the "Kitchen Ventilation Systems Application & Design Guide" that may be found at Greenheck's web site. It periodically moves around, URL-wise, so a Google search by name may be fastest. Greenheck or one of its competitors may be able to provide what you need for considerably less agony than a do-it-yourself HVAC project would. kas

Pretty range. On the riser, is that the oven heat venting forwards, right at you? As someone who has induction and gas (cooktops, not range), I'm always interested in the combination. You need specs to impress on the induction, however. See selected specs below. The induction has most of the usual features, and the power looks fine, but it doesn't have count down timers and only lists 9 power levels. Nine is fine if there are half stops, for the true number of power levels of 17. If there are really only 9, plus boost, simmer, etc., then it's pretty bad. That's not enough control, and the power one wants is generally in between, which means a lot of up one/down one throughout the cooking. I'd find that out before buying/carrying. The gas power looks decent, but confusing, since the simmer is on the big burner. But there's also the induction, so it really doesn't matter unless there's a power outage. The ovens are gas, I'm sure, because otherwise you'd have to have like 200 amps just for the range. There's only one glide rack, in the larger oven. There is convection, but not self clean (again, the power issue), and the interior is enamel (which is good--easier to clean than stainless). It only goes up to 500° F, so adequate, but not a pizza powerhouse. The griddle looks a little underwhelming, but probably another power compromise. Should be fine for pancakes. Overall, it looks like a good range, and packs a lot into a compact space. I really want to know about the real number of power settings on the induction, however. Nine is just a no-go. Period. Ten years ago they were doing nine. It wasn't good. Most everybody is doing 17 now, and it's very good. Power burner with simmer (n° 1), 750 / 18,000 Btu/h (min -- max) Medium burner (n° 1), 2,050 / 6,500 Btu/h (min -- max) Total gas power, 24,500 Btu/h Wok ring Standard, Simmer ring Standard Induction zones 4 Induction 210-180mm (n° 4) 2,100 / 3,700 W (min -- turbo boost) Total induction power 7,400 W Power levels 9 Special cooking temperatures Melting, Warming, Simmering Electric griddle Power 1,200 W Oven sizes Main interior dimension (WxDxH) 24" 13/16 x 19" 57/64 x 20" 31/64 Auxiliary interior dimension (WxDxH) 9" 17/64 x 19" 55/64 x 20" 31/64 Main oven power 14,000 Btu/h Auxiliary oven power 8,500 Btu/h Broiler 8,000 Btu/h Maximum cooking temperature 500 °F

With induction the 'fake' professional range is not happening. Because no such unit is used in a restaurant. Induction uses a 40 or 50A 220v circuit. Adding electric oven capability should get another circuit. A high quality 6 burner range isn't out there. This would happen if you installed an electric oven below a cooktop or a couple ovens separately somewhere else. True professional induction units are all cooktops. No ranges. I wouldn't consider a Viking product of any type. Consumer Reports doesn't test a broad enough range of products these days, because there are so many, to be the final word. The problem with price as your primary guide is the current lack of longevity engineered into many products in the lower to mid range. No one here wants to pay more. But for some things it will end up costing you less over a 10 year period to buy a product that's made to last. Even if the initial price is more than a Whirlpool with it's 1 year warranty. Just avoid paying more for poor quality, such as Viking.

In the North American Market, the only current residential all-induction ranges in a 48" size are the AGA Elise and Mercury lines. Here's link to the web page. Dunno who carries them in the Bay Area. Maybe Purcell-Murray? Last time this question came up here, IIRC, some were carried by on-line vendors such as AJ Madison. The AGA brand has been part of the Middleby Group since 2015. FWIW, Middleby is also the current owner of the Viking brand. Have you considered the compromises involved in getting a 48" wide induction range into a residential setting where it all has to run off a single 50 Amp 240v circuit? For example, the AGAs have only five burners with limited power output and limited adjustabilty. Might want to check out the use and care guides to look into those aspects to see if they would meet your expectations and/or cooking needs. Also, you used the term "range." That seems to mean different things to different foiks. If you are one of the people for whom "range" includes a separate cooktop (something that goes into a counter and is not integrated with ovens), then there are no 48"-wide residential induction cooktops on offer in the North American market. The widest induction cooktop currently on offer here is the 42" wide Miele that Kaseki mentioned. If a 48"-inch width is critical to your intended uses, and the AGAs turn out not to be up-to snuff for you, then you could assemble your own array of burners using smaller cooktops (often referred to as "dominoes") or even an array of individual commercial in-counter units such as those from Cooktek (another company absorbed into the Middleby group, btw.) Some high end restaurants use arrays of Cooktek induction burners ; Alinea comes to mind. (However, IIRC, Alinea uses the self-contained countertop units rather than the in-counter ones.) With all that in mind, is there a particular reason you want a single 48" wide cooking surface for you new build? Seems to me that the high-end places usually spread their Cookteks around in separate cooking stations. Would that work for your plans? Is this the kind of build where you could provide commercial electrical power supplies and elaborate commercial venting? For a residence, the electrical power requirements, wiring, and breakers would be complicated, to say the least. So would ventilation and back-up power as others have pointed out above. Might or might not be worth it to you.