Thanks for the potential ID. I'll be checking this year for the "samaras" In previous years I've been cutting off the fruit and new branches to keep the plant at its current size. The hope was that if it was actually a bad plant it wouldn't spread. ~Persimmons

Thanks tashkentensis and saltcedar for the suggestions, but it's not either of those. I did a google search for the two trees you suggested. Bboy is right. The tree is evergreen, but it does shed old leaves almost continuously, which turn a bright red/yellowish before falling off. I will try and take a picture of one and post it to facilitate its identification. Thanks!

I don't think it's Tilia henryana. Typically the "spines" of the soft spine like teeth are much longer on T. henryana than the leaves in the photo. You can find T. americana(Basswood, American Linden) with leaves with small soft "spine" like teeth like the leaves in the photo. The leaves look too large for T. henryana, which top out at about 4"x4"(10cm x 10cm), to me also. They look much closer in size to T. americana, which range from 4"x4" on the small side up to 8"x8"(20cm x 20cm), to me. Also, T. henryana in cultivation has so far been a relatively small tree in the 30' to 35' range(roughly 10m). Lastly, I'm doubtful that T. henryana(considered zone 7 hardy usually) is hardy in the zone 5 Brookfield Zoo which has seen temps as low as -20°F(-29°C) within the past 12 years or so(surely within the lifetime of this tree). So, I believe this is a Basswood tree(T. americana).

Any organic fertilizer that has relatively whole ingredients like blood meal, bone meal, etc. will not work well in containers in most cases. These kinds of fertilizers work well in the ground because they rely on soil microorganisms to convert the raw ingredients into NPK. Unfortunately most container mixes do not have enough of those microorganisms to do the converting and so the fertilizer just stays as it is, raw materials. Your plant will literally starve while food sits there. Btw, fish emulsion is in this category. It's the Foliage Pro that's working not the fish emulsion. As the end product the soil microbes produce from the organic fertilizers is chemically the same as standard fertilizers, and since container mixes don't contain the necessary microbes, it's best to just use the standard or "chemical" fertilizers and bypass the missing microbe middlemen. If you're afraid of "burning" with chemical (standard) fertilizers, just cut the label dosage in half and you'll be fine. That's the popular "Weakly, weekly" method and it works well. But always make sure your soil is moist before feeding. Water the day before and the next day fertilize. Fertilizing a dry plant will burn it in most cases. Some of the good benefits of organic fertilizers are that they encourage more soil microbes in the ground and are also good for the texture of the soil. But it just doesn't work like that in container soil. So just use a standard fertilizer for containers and don't feel bad or guilty about it. But also make sure it's a standard fertilizer that is formulated for container soil mix. Most liquid fertilizes are good.Also fertilizers that are a powder meant to be mixed with water first will work. Standard granular fertilizers that are not mixed with water first are meant to be used on the ground, so don't use them.