Well familiar with the Bayer rose care products. The 3 in 1 granules start working, IMHO, about 3 weeks after the first application, even with good rainfall for watering. It takes time for the fungicide/insecticide to reach the roses' very tips. Therefore, a preliminary fungicide spraying is needed for just a couple 10 day apart sprays at the time the granules are first applied is what I would do.

Diligent reapplications of the 3 in 1, done according to instructions are mandatory. Also, rainfall or regular watering, if rainfall is intermittent, is necessary to keep the program working at optimum level.

Moses

To help you better let me make sure what you are using. Please clarify if you are using the 3 in 1 soil surface applied granules, or the 3 in 1 foliar spray concentrate ? Thanks!

Moses

I use the granules around bearded iris and Aquilegia in the early spring for insect control, but for the roses I occasionally use the liquid/concentrate that you mix with water and pour on the soil at the plant base. I used it a few days ago.

Here's what it's called on Amazon: BioAdvanced 701262 All in One Rose and Flower Care Plant Fertilizer Insect Killer, and Fungicide, 64 Ounce, Concentrate.

You are supposed to pour it as close to the base of the plant as possible. [ I did use this product a few days ago, although I confess I'm not a big fan of putting insecticide in the soil. Seems to me a spray is preferable because you can spray just enuf to avoid dripping, and keep the soil more "biologically friendly" to things that live there.]

I'll paste in excepts from my notes of label info:

When to use: Every 6 weeks throughout the growing season, starting in spring when plants are actively growing, for a max or total of 3 applications per year.

How to apply : Apply the stronger Single Plant Solution: Slowly pour as close to the base of the plant as possible, taking care not to get any on the leaves. First, pull mulch away, build a well around each individual plant, pour the solution slowly to allow the soil to absorb it.

How much to use: Roses: 2 fluid ounces, i.e. 4 TBSP, in 1 quart of water treats one plant.

(By the way, I don't rely on the fertilizer in this concentrate. I fertilize w compost and Rose Tone and some other things.)

Since you used the drench a few days ago, and the foliage is well up and growing, it will be a couple weeks before the drench kicks in. I would give a foliar spray of a systemic insecticide/fungicide now, and again in about 10 days to get the bushes' protection started now.

Moses

Thanks very much for your help! I got a very late start with spraying (and everything) this year. . . I sprayed with Bonide Rose Shield 5/25/22 and 5/31/22. (It's a fungicide/insecticide/miticide). Then I used the BioAdvanced fungicide/insecticide soil drench 6/4/22. I think I'll use a fungicide-only spray today. Most years I spray with the Rose Shield every 30 days and a fungicide-only product in-between at 7 to 10-day intervals. Maybe I should regard that soil drench as "extra insurance" . . . and maintain a regular spraying program.

I say, "better late than never.". I try not to beat myself up when I get behind or just plain lazy in my garden duties. Fortunately, our plants are pretty forgiving and respond with surprising resilience when we pick up where we left off.

Looks like you have a very good care program. Spraying always is more laborious than drenching or scattering granules, but spraying is certainly more immediately effective.

What I have now changed from my former very tedious spray routine is: only grow fungus, particularly black spot, free/resistant roses. This means replacing older disease prone bushes with newer disease free ones. It's a long haul project, only a few bushes a year. I'm almost there, only a handful more to go.

Unfortunately, insect free/resistant roses are a thing of the future. What I have done this year is do a once a year soil drench, 12 month lasting in effectiveness. I did the drench this spring. Will see how effective it is. So far so good.

My main insect enemy is the dreaded Rose Midge Fly. Female flies lay their eggs in growing tips. The maggots eat into the very tip, severely damaging/killing the terminal so that no bud forms or an already forming bud is deformed severely leading to a miserable deformed flower. This damage continues from spring to fall, generation after generation of flies coming and going.

Now for mites, which fluctuate in severity year to year, I have sprayed a once a season application of TetraSan 5. It's not applied every year....just as needed.

So, to condense things. My goal is to simplify my gardening chores, especially as I am older. Therefore, the first step is to only grow disease free roses....no fungus spraying needed. Then an once a year, spring applied soil drench for insects comes next. Finally, is doing a spraying once a season for mites with TetraSan 5 or its equivalent, but only as needed, not needed every year.

Moses

One of my problems is that I don't have enuf "full sun" space. Worse, quite a bit of my flower garden stays shady until mid or late morning. Heaven for black spot. As most rose growers know, if you don't have sun all the day, one prefers that the early morning sun would hit the rose bushes and dry them off. I do the best I can. [Sometimes I ask myself, "Why not just get flowery wallpaper and curtains?"] I like to work in the garden, but spraying is my least favorite task. Again, thanks for your advice and comments!

My backyard roses get 1.5hr-4hr sun and most of them stay clean all over the season. I don't spray so looking for both shade tolerant and disease resistant roses is part of my pleasure of growing roses.