Here is a link for rose gloves...

Here is a link that might be useful: Rose Gauntlet Gloves

Thanks - rash is fading, I've never had a reaction like that before.

So, about the BS - should I just cut off the leaves or should I cut back the canes too? I think these got BS at the store b/c they had all the pots crammed together and watered from the top (plus the endless rain - stopped by dinnertime last night but wee hours it poured again). I'm hoping that if I cut them back (and it stops the monsoon pattern we've been in for a month), since I've planted them with plenty of elbow room, they should recover?

Thanks

Cherish is highly BS prone and must be sprayed here in the northeast and it will also be killed back severely in a normal winter. It is very high maintenance and not one I would ever recommend although I have it. The roses you have are infected with D. rosae (blackspot) and are showing symptoms (black spots and yellowing) which will eventually result in complete defoliation, weakening and probable death of the rose. The fungicide of choice here is Bayer whose active ingredient tebuconazole has been shown to stop D. rosae and eventually allow infected roses to recover. As to your scratches, that is part of growing roses.

Oh darn - when I ought the first one last year I thought I read that it was fairly disease-resistant and hardy. Since it survived early summer planting, never got BS, and survived the winter, I couldn't resist buying the clearance ones. Should I just spray (all of) them (even the older one, since it's been so wet)? Or should I cut off leaves/canes too? If they all die this winter I'll pull them out next year. Darn, I just pulled out my Kordana mini (another Stop & Shop salvage from last year) to plant Cherish in its spot, gave it to my mom. How do Parade minis do? Just planted 4 of those too.

Scratches aren't a problem, I've gotten worse from raspberries. The rash was unexpected. It's still there, though scratches have faded - they were very light. Do roses tend to give chickenpox-like rash? From scratches or just contact? Just thought it was strange - my mom noticed it, I told her it was scratches and she had to point out the dots.

Thanks

I would spray all of them 3 times at weekly intervals and then back off to every two weeks. As to whether to prune, if the plants are small and debilitated, I would leave them alone to conserve stored energy. If they have considerable mass (several sturdy stems), you might cut back to 2' so they grow back bushier.

Get Bayer Rose, Flower Disease Control (spray concentrate not soil drench) at Lowe's.

Thanks - I'll check HD, it's closer than Lowes. I picked all the badly spotted leaves off the 2 I just bought (1 wasn't bad, the other is nearly bare now), left ones with only a few spots so I can spray. The original had some yellow leaves near the ground, but not a single spot, given all the rain! I plucked the yellow leaves off that one first so I wouldn't contaminate it after touching the diseased ones.

Both new ones are 18" or so tall, I will leave the one with more leaves alone now, just spray, but should I cut back the now-leafless canes on the other (no yellow leaves, but some practically fell off when I touched them)? Will that encourage new (hopefully BS-free) growth? I hate to prune in the summer, but the weather has been more spring-like lately, and at this point that one has so few leaves I don't know if it'll be enough to support the canes it has.

The plant is more able to grow if you don't prune it-- there is some stored energy in the canes. Remove the tips if smaller than 1/8".

HD probably won't have it. If it's a long trip to Lowe's, call ahead and ask for a clerk in the garden center. Make him find the one-quart blue Bayer bottle and read the exact name "Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs."

Thanks Michael - remove the tips once they start to taper down to 1/8" diameter? Any advice on whether to cut above or below leaf branch? Does it matter?

We always cut just above a leaf or where one used to be (a bump with a line under it). New growth comes from these spots.

Thanks!

I sprayed (mixed it up in a hand spray bottle, nothing fancy) on Sunday and they looked really bad yesterday. When should I spray again? I don't think there will be any leaves left if I wait til Sunday (michaelg said a week apart?).

My original Cherish is doing fine, picked some yellow leaves off the bottom yesterday but no black spot. Unfortunately, no more buds, no more new leaves even where I deadheaded. Two of the 4 minis have blossoms though.

Bayer is systemic-- it is inside the leaf and will keep working for at least 10-14 days. However, it will not cure damage that has already occurred. Leaves that were already badly infected are damaged internally and will die. Leaves with young infections (say one small spot) may survive, as the fungicide may have killed the fungus in time. But mainly what the spray does is keep the blackspot from spreading to new leaves.

Never exceed a labeled spray interval-- it may be toxic to the plant. I would spray 3 times at 7-day intervals. Meanwhile the badly infected leaves will die off. Then you can back off to a 10 or 14-day interval.

Please give Cherish a chance. It is worth the extra effort to spray it with the Bayer sprays which I am using also. If I didn't spray, probably all of my roses would be defoliated by now. Since I have been using that spray, I think my blackspot is down the better part of 90%. I have very little; even on my blackspot indicator plants it is rather low.

Cherish is a beautiful rose that has show-form hybrid tea style flowers. Along with French Lace it became one of the reasons to have one bloom per stem floribundas in rose shows. Historically, Cherish was part of three AARS winners for its year along with Love and Honor. French Lace also won the AARS award.

Thanks - I just had to log on this AM and check again whether you said to spray 3x/week or weekly 3x before going to every other week. I didn't bother to check the bottle at 4AM ;-)

I hope Henry's prediction doesn't come true and I lose these - it was a $4 investment but then the Bayer was $14 (at least I have it for the future). I just hate to keep digging up my garden.

I did have roses on the Cherish last summer and then again this summer. It is almost a HT (I thought w/o the hassle), couldn't resist buying more. I looked at Honor but since tag said Honor was a HT I passed. Maybe if the 2 new Cherish don't make it I'll replace the one by my front porch with Honor if you think it's worth trying. I just thought all HTs were hard to grow.

I hear French Lace is very prone to BS.

Nowadays I wouldn't assume any difference among HTs, floribundas, and grandifloras as to hardiness and disease resistance. The are all interbred and then classified according to the flower form and habit. Some varieties are sturdier than other varieties. Garden Party is a hardy white HT, and Pope John Paul is said to be fairly disease resistant. Honor and French Lace are both winter tender and BS-susceptible. But if you want a really tough white rose, try Paloma Blanca.

Floribundas Sexy Rexy, Margaret Merrill, and Ivory Fashion were among the most BS-prone roses I've ever grown. By contrast, HT Elina has good resistance compared to other modern bush roses.

You just have to ask here about individual varieties, or do a search.

Your level of blackspot also really depends on your local climatic conditions. Something that stays healthy here with no spraying might not do the same where you live.

Give your new roses some time to recover. If you follow bottle and forum recommendations you should come out fine in the end. Good luck!