There is no need to eliminate the trim or measure the existing framing; you just need to add up the dimensions (3.75" trim + 30" door + 3.75" trim) - 60" room width = 22.5" If you choose a lav. and vanity (or a pedestal lav.) that is no deeper than 22.5" you are done. There are countless ways to meet that requirement. The pedestal lav. I drew is only 20" deep and the vanity top with the underhung lav. is exactly 22.5" deep but I set the wall back 4" to allow a 32" door and avoid a tight fit between the counter top and the trim. However, if a family member becomes wheelchair bound in the future it is highly likely that they would use a motorized chair which can go virtually anywhere able-bodied people can go except stairs and possibly showers. And ramps can be much steeper. Toilet transfer must still be thought out carefully. I have a client who has started using a motorized wheelchair since out first project. I am now modifying his residence for him. His mobility is astounding and I have to run to keep up with him which seems to amuse him.

Just my 1/2 cent. I would tile the entire wall, shower and behind toilet. It is the visual entry wall from your door entrance. I realize a curtain needs to be closed for the most part to dry, but i open mine for the rest of the day because it opens up the room, and i like my tile. It goes all the way up to a post and beam ceiling. I'm not sure why it bugs me to see so many breaks and jags in tile these days, up down and across, even stair stepping...shower steam and moisture does effect the wall above eventually and the wall towards the toilet just by the direction of your shower head. But more to the point is when this trend started. Having been in hundreds of NYC bathrooms original build from the turn of the century thru the 60's, they do not jog tile up down and around in some decorative way. Stopping at the division before your sink area is fine as that division makes sense. A friend of mine stopped the tile like your last post, but it was a budget concern, so maybe that is the reasoning? The recent 'modernists' in bath design seem to do a great job with many of these issues by taking tile all the way around at the shower curtain/glass door line...the entire room, or tiling one entire wall. In the first pic above, the nice traditional bath with vintage fixtures, i would have stopped the tile just above, by one or two tiles, the window hardware, all the way around clean. That would fall just below the sconces. Just a thought, probably just me...

Cursivesailor, I've been using my CAD program (Punch) to see if I could do something similar to the design you posted on July 22 while using the footprint constraints (33' wide x 73' long) that you posted on the 15th. I'm going to go ahead and post what I came up with, but to be honest, overall I like Kellyeng's July 22 design better than mine! Plus, mine also suffers from the back porch not being accessible except via the master bedroom or the outside stairway. For me, that would be an advantage b/c I would want a "private" deck area as well as a more public one. Plus, I had to make the back porch smaller to make everything fit...tho I was able to squeeze in a dining room with space for a wet bar no less! If the numbers are a bit hard to read, each square in the grid is 1 ft by 1 ft. By the way, since you said you liked symmetry, I tried to keep the window spacing on the side street side symmetrical too although the window in the shower would have to be a frosted glass block or other opaque glass. I was also pretty conservative in how deep I made the garage b/c I'm not familiar with what kinds of constraints you have due to flooding. If allowable, I would extend the garage the full 33' width of the house and use the back for storage. That would make parking a big car/truck easier. On the side where the staircase goes up, you would probably only be able to park a small to midsize car that could nose under the stairs. 24' depth for a garage is better but, with the staircase going up the center of a 33' foot deep plan, that was just impossible. AS I said tho, I like Kellyeng's design better than mine and can see how the garage would easily fit under the livingroom/kitchen area in her design. Would still recommend a downstairs foyer area b/c that would allow you to get rid of the door at the top of the stairs. Or, if you decided to keep the door at the top, you really need to put the door on the side wall and open it INTO the kitchen because 1) that will be safer and 2) you won't be looking directly into the bathroom as you enter the house. Mobrian - will be happy to take a look at your plan this weekend but I GOTTA quit screwing around here on GW and get some real work done before I manage to get myself fired. LOL! BTW, I'm blushing that you called what I do "magic". It's really just pushing jigsaw puzzle pieces around till they fit.

I don't know how your plumbing is configured, but, I doubt you have separate pex distribution lines from your copper to pex manifold feeding your bathroom. If this is true, then your sinks in the bathroom are feed by the same supplies as the shower, and, your lack of hot water could be due to the hot water valve in your shower since your sinks work fine. Basically, the lack of hot water is due to a faulty hot valve since the cold shower has plenty of pressure as does your sink hot and cold.