Some one said the highbush cranberry tasted bad, but sometimes the European (Viburnum opulus) gets confused with the American (Viburnum Trilobum) and the European is more medicinal. There is suppose to be a 3rd high bush cranberry type around Canada or Alaska that tastes best of all. But, besides those viburnum there's other edible varieties like the black haw (Viburnum Prunifolium), nannyberry (Viburnum lentago), wild raisin (several edible viburnum share that name), hobble bush Viburnum is said to have " consistency of stewed prunes with a bit of clove like spicy fragrance". The native northern fly honeysuckle (lonicera villosa) is edible, and I read a source saying it was used in the breeding program to make honey berries. I have not read to much information on that, but it's likely. I saw its seeds being sold on Etsy. It doesn't make many berries and they are small, but the hackberry (Celtis occidentalis) is said to have berries with a thin sugary pulp, and the seeds crushed with water are edible and is said to taste of almond milk. Looking at ground covers, besides partridgeberry, wintergreen, cranberry, lingonberry, or snowberry, there's the ground cherries you could try. It's leaves and unripe fruit is poisonous, but they are sweet tasting berries when ripe.

Ok, we all know that as soon as someone says "it won't live here" someone else will tell you they've had one for 25 years. I have two properties, one in east Dallas and one in NE Texas 11 miles south of the Red River (Oklahoma). I planted two 4 ft. tall Baby Blue Eyes Colorado Blue Spruces in my back yard in Dallas in 2004. One is now 10 feet tall and the other is 9 feet. They are on the south side of a large old pecan tree so they get afternoon shade and I keep them well mulched. In 2005 I planted two Fat Alberts which I purchased at a local nursery brave enough to order them in. They were each about 3 1/2 feet tall in 5 gallon containers. Both are healthy and about five feet tall. In NE Texas I have planted Hoopsi, Fat Albert, Weeping White, White and aerospicata. They have been in the ground two years and would be doing great if it weren't for the east Texas Pine belt version of the Southern Pine Beetle attacking them. I have been treating them with Merit in hopes of protecting them this season. I have seen several Blue Spruce trees in the Dallas area north of I-30 and east of I-35. Usually where experienced people are willing to "take care" of them, they will not only live but will satisfy that longing we conifer lovers all crave to have satisfied. They need to be in well drained areas with some afternoon shade and heavily mulched. I have sprinkled granulated sulfer over the area every 2-3 years. Most conifer enthusiasts with "Spruce experience" in Dallas will tell you that it's possible to get 25 years out of a tree that is well cared for by its owner. I also have some nice Chameacyparis, Deodara and Blue Atlas Cedars. Of course, ANY Juniper will thrive here. I have a Gold Cone and lots of Mother Load that shine YELLOW. Italian Cypress, standard and Swanes Gold, are a nice contrast with blue pfitzer junipers. I have lots of folks asking me about those too... Dallas has several microcosms that allow us to plant a wide variety of conifers. So, yes, Spruce will live if you are patient and willing and do the research needed to plant it in the right spot. If not, then, no. You will kill it if you plant it and depend on nature to do the rest they way most Texans do with Live Oaks, Bradford Pears and Crepe Myrtles. I think I enjoy my conifers the most when we get snow three or four times a year and they really make us look like a winter wonderland! Good luck!

Mustang, those are very detailed photos and descriptions of your planting plan! The sites are so clear to my mind. Your rose choices are lovely. Your garden is going to be a most beautiful and fragrant experience to behold with all senses in a very few years! I've been reflecting on a couple of issues that may be affecting the health and flower production of your plants. The first is the one that always catches me when I plant young roses. Most take several years to grow and flower. The first year is the root establishment year and requires enormous patience. I always forget this in my excitement. However, as you have noted, sunlight and water access/drainage considerations may also be affecting your roses. If the native soil is pulling away from the planting areas, it sounds like the soil does indeed need attention. If the original holes were large enough (what size breadth and depth?), then you may have some soil contrast issues. It's a good idea to blend native soil with the planting mix in the VERY large holes so the rose roots aren't stopped in their tracks when they hit the transition between the hole and uncultivated ground. Also, this mixture, gently pressed down upon and added to as it settles helps prevent the separation issue you encountered. If deep watering is a problem, soaker hoses are my go-to for good hydration and solid root establishment. Running the soakers all along the rose area will help the surounding native soil to become hydrated as well so that the amended soil retains more moisture and the transition from amended soil to native is bridged for the developing roots. Since your fenceline is under trees which not only prevent rainfall from reaching your roses but also compete for access to groundwater via big, established roots, I'm thinking soakers (or another consistent and thorough watering system) is needed. Shade can also be an issue, and since morning sun only is half of full sun, some roses are not as happy to thrive and bloom. Many will grow in morning only sun and some even produce lovelier, better preserved blooms in this condition. Certain Austins, Hybrid Musks, Gallicas and Albas all come to mind. For me, the shade issue is frequently a wait and see one. Please DO keep us updated on the forum. I look forward to the unfolding of your garden's maturity! I agree Gertrude is one of the most deliciously scented Austins. I grow her ancestor, Comte de Chambord, and look forward to sinking my nose into his blooms each summer! All the best - Carol

Here is what I’m growing below. Bacon - 23-28*. Good eating . 10-12oz. Oct- Feb. upright . 4winds says 28* Oct-Jan Avocadosource.com says oct-dec. Nov- March Venturacounty B Type Fuerte- 26-30*. Good. 8-14 oz. B type. Spreading. Nov- April Hass- 26*. Feb-Sept. A type Mexicola- 18*. 4-8 oz. Aug-Oct. spreading A type Pinkerton - 30*. Excellent tasting. 14-16oz. Dec-June.spreading-14 days 2 soften A type Stewart, Stuart - 18*- 24*. Excellent tasting. 4-8oz. Oct-Dec. some say Aug - Oct . dwarf.spreading A type Wurtz- 25*.May-Sept. Good eating. 10-20oz.weeping. 4 Winds says 8-14oz A or B hope this helps !