Not yet. Hosui just fruited this year. I can't remember when I picked Shinko. It's some time in Sept. 20th Century in mid/late Sept. Korean Giant late Sept/early Oct. (some years mid Oct.). Also, sometimes when squirrels started taking them, I just picked so I could have some. Of all 4 varieties: KG has no problem (knock on wood). Fruit is large and tasty. Shinko is resistant to fire blight but has some leave problem (some turned yellow with green veins.) My guess is some virus. Fruit is bland in my climate. 20th Century gets some fire blight. Fruit is small and not as sweet as KG. Fruit cracks easily after a dry period followed by rain. Hosui is a headache for me. It gets both fire blight and leave virus. (or it could be mineral deficiency). I have streptomycin for fire blight but can't remember where I keep it. This year, it's very hot and humid. Fire blight galore. I'll be ready with my streptomycin next year. Copper spray during dormant season is to prevent specific bacteral diseases on peaches and other stone fruit. I don't think it's for fire blight. However, since it does not hurt and I have leftover so I spray it on my pears anyway!!

Wow!,....the technique I have been posting for many years here on GW to control nematodes, especially root-knot nematodes, now has an official name and patent. Soap as a surfactant, (not always needed) and just plain sugar...all gussied up with a few unnecessary additions, in an expensive 'organic' package. Let's cut to the chase. I have years of first hand experiments with this subject treating infected lawns and gardens. Granulated sugar, all by itself, spread on infected soils and lawns every eight weeks during the growing season provides satisfactory control. The only time a surfactant is needed would be when the soil was tight and not friable. This would be applied with a hose end sprayer after the dry sugar was spread. (Fill sprayer with liquid organic soap, set sprayer dial to 1 tablespoon per gallon.) Yes, I know that using granulated sugar is expensive. However, dry molasses can be purchased at a reasonable price in #40 bags at farm stores. Substitute this when treating large areas. To control root-knot nematodes when planting root crops work sugar and cheap, fresh unused coffee grounds into each planting furrow before seeding. Every 4th week scratch additional sugar along each row until harvest. Gonebananas will find that 3 handfuls of sugar worked into pot surface soil every eight weeks for a growing season worth trying.

I'm guessing there's sufficient acid in that recipe to make the additional lemon juice unnecessary. However, that's only a guess. This would be a good question to email Dr. Andress about. She's usually very quick to reply and since Asian pears keep so well, there should be at least a little leeway before you need to can them. Then, if you don't hear from her, you could go ahead and can with the additional lemon juice. That's definitely the most conservative approach. Carol Here is a link that might be useful: NCHFP Contact Page

Potassium bicarb works a bit better but sodium bicarb works to some degree if you diligent. You can also try milk about 1 to 2 dilution, as well as vinegar 3 tbsp to gal of water, mouthwash 1 to 3 parts etc Neem oil helps as well.