If the pic is of your kitchen? At this stage you need a wider hood, wider cabinet above the hood (hope finishes can be matched), relocate hood vent, longer counter to the right (hope slab can be matched), redo crown molding across the bank, redo or add flooring in enlarged range niche, touch up any dings, prep newly exposed drywall, and relocate under cabinet lighting. Run from anyone who says they can do it for $1,000.

What does “too late” mean? You’re going to have to provide some photos and details of the current state of your kitchen build for anyone to be able to answer your question.

@Mama Cita @Lynzy ive added some extra info!

I do not understand "builder wont let me". They don't have the time allotted to your project? You aren't just talking moving cabinetry. The wall/floors etc are all affected. Is the countertop ordered, it won't fit either? It seems you had a kitchen design and an inability to visualize the end product and now that you can see it you want to play doll house and move stuff. It's only money in the end...but it sounds like your workers have appointments elsewhere. While they are at it...I would move all the cabinetry up to the ceiling...

@Mama Cita..she said " my kitchen looks pretty much like the pic at this point" so not her kitchen !

Questions about construction costs are always best asked locally.

Snaggy, you missed the OP’s post stating she “added some extra info” to her original post. The newly added info said her kitchen looks “pretty much like the pic at this point,” but without countertops. My comment stands.

I will replace the little hood with a chinney venthood Meanjng i will also throw away those little cabinets. i will also extend cabinetry to the ceiling so i dont mind redoing the crown molding later on.

^^Doing all that? Don't sweat the cost of moving the cabinets to make room for a 36" range. Minor thing to remove the cabinets (in this open end situation) & re install them. Obviously, do it before the counters are installed.

So many questions. Is this a brand new home build orbs kitchen renovation only? How did it get to the almost finished stage before you realizing you wanted something different? What does “builder won’t let me” mean? Does it mean you are responsible for finding a separate contractor to move the cabinetry, install the chimney vent, extend cabs to the ceiling and install your counters? And yes, it’s going to cost way, way more than $1,000, but how much more is specific to location. It’s money and a huge hassle, especially since it sounds like you may have to find a new contractor to do the job. So is it worth I? Up to you.

If the vent duct is centered on the current range and you want a chimney-style hood, you would need to replace the cabinets to the left and the right of the hood. How will you "extend the cabinets to the ceiling"? With a large two-piece crown? I would think this would be much more than $1000, but I do not know the price-point of your cabinets. If you wait until after the countertop is installed, the price will be much higher.

@Kristin Petro Interiors, Inc. the duct hole is on the inside of the cabinets above the range right now. i will extend them to the ceiling later on when i finish furninshing the house. thats a whole other project for which ill research and look into cost later. Right noe i just want to move the cabinets but unfortunatey it will have to he done after the house is completed

So in piecing together the story here, you are going to go ahead and finish the kitchen as originally agreed to with your builder. Then later you want to make the cabinet, vent, stove, etc changes. Is that correct? Start looking for reputable contractor’s now. This will be a costly rework.

@Lynzy correct! i have budgeted for everything i want except for the ceiling cabinets (because i wont do this for some time) and the extra cost for the 36” range but thats ok. essentially i just need to know if its feasible to move the cabinets now or not so that i can go ahead and buy a 30” range or keep saving to buy a 36” later

Okay. And by “now” what do you mean? Before the counters are installed? Because sounds like your only option with the home builder is to let them finish and then you demo counter to move cabs later, unless you want to sign-off on the home being completed without a kitchen counter. There’s still the floor patching issue with the lower cabinet move. Finish the kitchen as designed with the 30” range, hit pause and live with it a while to ensure there’s nothing else you’d want to demo and redo.

Did you ask your contractor how much they’d charge to move the cabinets? They’re typically the best choice, since they already have crews on site, know the job and any warranties they extend will remain intact.

@lynzy yeah basically I can’t do anything until the house is done. That’s why I’m wondering how much it would cost to move those cabinets. Once I’m ready and if it’s feasible I will replace the floor to a tile, extend the cabinets, add a chimney vent hood and I think that’s it. But right now I’m only wondering about the relocation of the cabinetry

@mama cita I requested it under contract but “we’re past the time for any requests” so I will likely just ask the builder that gives me the final walk through to give me a quote and then compare to a independent contractor. I saw them this weekend and they said it shouldn’t be a problem but alas, under contract someone higher up said nope. Prolly to not extend the time to finish the house further

I think the most questionable part of this whole plan is the "extend the cabinets" comment. Are these a prefab cabinet you can just buy more of or easily match? Is there room to stack cabinets on top of the existing ones?

Better investigate the costa of the puttng in the bigger ductwork needed to replace what the builder put in, recentering the vent pipe 3” over over or installing an elbow, the 42” hood and insert with way more power, the bigger way way more expensive range itself, and the cost of the code required make up air. Add in new countertops, because domething is gonna break.

This isn’t ”just” the 3K of moving and resetting cabinets, and redoing all of the crown and toekick and scribe and everything else. Not by a long shot. I’d be shocked if you could do all of the associated changes things required under a 20K budget. Then add the $15-$25 a square of demolition for the floor and installing a nee floor.

@denkyem…extension to ceiling doesn’t have to be purchasing more cabs. New boxes can be built on top or a wide panel and crown added.

@denkyem @lynzy probably, no idea. Not in question at the moment, if I need to get custom cabinetry for this part of the project then so be it. Right now my concern is moving the cabinets

@verbo yeah like I mentioned I have budgeted for the cost of appliances and whatnot. I already spoke with the builder about moving the duct and all that. I’m not asking about the total cost of this whole remodeling idea, just the cost to move the cabinets

Better investigate the costa of the puttng in the bigger ductwork needed to replace what the builder put in, recentering the vent pipe 3” over over or installing an elbow,

But, if the kitchen in the picture is what OP is getting, there is no duct. That is a recirculating hood.

redoing all of the crown and toekick

Crown, yes. But moot because OP wants to add cabinets above existing cabinets. Crown is coming off the cabinets anyway. Toe kicks are so minor as to hardly be worth mention.

The floor is not a big deal either. Will involve removing 6" of flooring on the left to allow for setting the base cabinets and patching in under the new wider range. Which can be done with just about anything--even sheet vinyl or simply painting. Because it will be under the range & not visible.

This thread may be helpful to you.

If all you are asking about (today) is to move the upper and lower cabinets over, it seems to me that you unscrew them from the wall, move them over 6 inches, and re-screw them to the wall. Fixing the floor, wall etc. doesn't seem to be what you are asking about.

@ci_lantro yup, above the range it’s the hood with the duct hidden behind the cabinets which is pushing the air towards the outside of the house since that’s what’s behind this wall.

Also yes, the crown I don’t care, I will need new one anyway. Toekick isn’t just a piece of wood? Least of my problems. Floor is also right, I will only need those extra 6” which will probably come straight from where the current range will be or I can just buy that extra bit and installing it shouldn’t be all that difficult.

My concern was actually if it’s feasible or not to move the cabinets not the rest of the equation

@partim thanks! I read it through and it’s pretty much what I’m wondering. I am curious as to how to remove the quartz countertop without damaging it

So there is a duct. Does it exit the house through the side wall?

Total of five boxes to remove. Four boxes to relocate. Totally feasible. Just detach from the wall and relocate them. They should be hung through the back with cabinet screws and maybe screwed or nailed to each other through the inside edges of the face frame. Or possibly hung like Ikea does with a Z bar type hanging system.

@ci_lantro yes exactly, behind the kitchen is the outside of the house. Sounds good, I’ll have to see how difficult this all looks once I get inside the house

On the counter and what looks like a matching backsplash, it would be easiest to not have them glued in place. Talk to the installer about that. Or get super minimum glue down. You can aid in that by getting a quote from the installer for reinstall after you move the cabs. If it were me, I'd move them now before the counter install. Then your counters won't be a problem. I'd also be happy with a 30" induction slide-in range. Bosch 800 or Electrolux. A freestanding range like pictured is a lower end product. Freestanding or slide-in will affect the backsplash.

@dan1888 yeah unfortunately I can’t ask them to not put them or change that apparently. I’ll likely ask them how much to do this during the final walkthrough. Thankfully there is no backsplash so I’ll ge to that after I get the range situated and install under cabinet lightning. Looking at the ge monogram 30 or 36 whatever ends up being the case

Do you often cook with more than four burners at a time?

@kristin not often, but my pans are 10-12” and stockpots easily flush the 30” area with just 2. The main reason to expand is not to use 6 burners but to have more breathing space and to be able to take something out of the oven and put it on the stove rather than a trivet or my cutting board

@Ohhell No Obviously YMMV but those wouldn't be sufficient reasons for me to incur the expense of a 36" stove plus the change-ups to install it. I cook a lot and have enormous pots on a 30" stove. For the number of times you'd need all 4 elements for large pots, think about whether your funds could be used for something more impactful.

Well, since you didn’t catch this earlier, I highly recommend you get in and live with it. It is not simple for sure. Pushing everything down on right also creates possible issue. You might want to continue the cabinets all along that entire wall. That would give you much better linear look and add storage plus make potential flooring issue possibly moot. Give it a rest. Think about it after the crush of moving in. Good luck!

An important consideration for this project is answering the question “will this change impact resale and pricing” in the future. If you plan to move in 2-5 years, you probably won’t get proper return. Just something to add to your deliberations.

Thank you @missflomangan I want to make that part of the wall thats empty a sideboard with my espresso machine. So I can only move it so much haha. This actually made me wonder if it’s worth splurging to a 48” but I think it would make the whole house look a bit ridiculous since it’s not that big to begin with. It is my first home so I want it to be all it can be if I can help it and hopefully won’t sell for 5-10 years! I’m hoping when the time comes someone appreciates the bigger kitchen appliances and stuff and hopefully someone that loves cooking buys it

Whatever you spend on the switch to a 36" stove from a 30", you will not recover on resale.

Why is that?

Forget a 48”. That’s a whole other can of requirements. Be happy with your first home and capture your “lessons learned” by writing them down so you can avoid next time. There is no such thing as a perfect house. Save your money for killer interior design work! In 10 years, everything will be outdated and a buyer will gut your kitchen. Haha!

Look at portable induction burners to augment your existing range. That might be all you need.

Portable.

No one ever gets back 100% of the money they spend on remodeling as added home value. You’re lucky to get 60/100. Taking an existing new kitchen and spending another 30K on it might make you happy for a while, but the real depression sets in when you realize that it didn’t add a single dollar to the home value. You might as well have burned it in the trash can as spend it on remodeling an already brand spanking new kitchen to your specific taste. Youd have to wait until it was old and decrepit before doing a remodel of that scope, and have it add a dime. Home value is mostly controlled by location, square footage, age, condition, and only very very distantly, “extra” amenities. https://www.remodeling.hw.net/cost-vs-value/2022/

. I cook a lot and have enormous pots on a 30" stove.

Depends on the stove. The last one that I had, if there were two large pots on the back burners, only small (1 qt) saucepans would fit on the front burners.

How did this kitchen get so far without meeting the needs of the person(s) cooking in it?

(a bit of a rhetorical question, but one that emphasizes the hermit crab cast of mind when building a home)

Thank you Flo you’re totally right, I’ll just get what I can to enjoy this house while it’s mine

Mark, it isn’t a custom house. It’s just a new construction that was pretty far ahead when I got around to putting an offer and doing all of this so wasn’t able to modify much. The idea of a bigger range just dawned me the other day when I went to see how far along it was and realized the only thing stopping it from being bigger was the cabinets that aren’t attached to anything electrical