I don't think it is a good idea in any case. Seems to me the polarity of the secondary winding (24 volts) is not necessarily the same. For that matter, the primaries (120 volts) have 50-50 chance of being opposite polarity if on different breaker. You could be applying 48 volts when both timers power the same station, if my thinking is correct. I'm not clear on what you want to accomplish. I'll describe something I did, see if it could apply. This was in an established vineyard with a range of block sizes, and hence flow rates. The task was retrofitting a timer and solenoid valves (and other entailed improvements) to the drip irrigation. 11 blocks in all, flows from 9 to 70 gpm, and a moderate elevation range. The pump could obviously handle combinations of smaller blocks. The pump was set up with pressure tanks and a pressure switch control. So, a very small flow is not a problem, maximum demand just has to be within capability of the pump. I knew the range of operating pressure needed and tested for pump flow at a few points in that range. (No effect from tanks at a constant pressure.) This is the pump output curve with depth to water factored out. Take home message is: don't ask for more than pump can deliver. Knowing pump capability and individual block flows, I considered which blocks could be combined AND could tolerate similar scheduling. Each block also had to have a single station. So, vineyard blocks 1 to 11 were assigned timer stations 1 to 11. Station 12 kept as spare. Combination (3 + 7 + 9) is station 13, (4 + 5) is 14, (1 + 6 + 8) is 15. Happened to also need a master valve after the filter. I installed an 18 station timer, leaving a few spare stations. Ordinary timers can handle a master valve and just 1-2 additional solenoids. Aside from the timer circuitry, the supplied transformer is a little small for 3+ solenoids. So... I removed the internal transformer from the timer, mounted the timer, and mounted a fairly large electrical enclosure just below it. Mounted a 75 VA, 24 volt "control transformer" in one corner of the enclosure. Mounted some other electrical that doesn't pertain here. Brought 120 volt power in (for transformer) and made conduit connections to the timer, both to the station wiring area and to the former transformer mounting hole. Second connection was for 24 volt power to timer, as station wiring area would be crowded. Now for how the valve combinations are handled. "Ice cube" size 3-pole relays are also installed in the enclosure, one per combination. The 24 volt actuating coil of each relay has two terminals. One for each coil connects to the 24 volt "common" of the transformer. (Which 24 V. terminal on transformer is arbitrary, just be consistent with timer "common" polarity. That is, test continuity from "common" to the right power in terminal.) Jumper from one coil common to the next. The other coil terminal connects to the designated timer station for the valve combo being switched, ex: stn 13 to other coil terminal of "3+7+9" relay. The switching part of the relay has "common" terminals (3 in case of a 3-pole) and "normally open" and "normally closed" switched terminals. The (3 in this case) "common" terminals are all wired to the other (call it "+") transformer terminal. Valve wires 3, 7, and 9 are connected to the corresponding timer terminals AND a second wire goes from the timer station terminal to a "normally open" terminal on the relay. Thus, valves 3, 7, or 9 can be turned on individually, OR station 13 turns them all on. Other combinations are handled on other relays the same way. Only one station at a time is on in the timer. Note: A similar approach (relays) can be used to perform a second function needed for just some stations, such as running a second pump, running chemigation, bypassing a pressure switch, etc. This is not going to be a common issue in home landscape irrigation.

LKplatow, thank you! cooperbailey, those are great ideas. I'd love to adapt them to our more subdued style. I tend to do creamy neutrals on walls and furniture, and add color with pillows, curtains, bedding... so for upholstery I was either thinking of tan or beige velvet (boring, I know) or a Sunbrella linen tweed like one of the lighter fabrics on the page linked below. But I was going to do punchier accent pillows depending on the bedding I chose. I really like, and am thinking of buying, the Dwell Studio Regency bedding collection at Target (can't post the darn pic, sorry!), so maybe I'd do some aqua/geometric pillows along the Regency lines. And now let me try out another idea. Part of me says it'll be smarter and easier to just do each chair all in one classic, simple fabric. (DH will want to do this, for sure, and will think I'm nuts to even suggest what I'm about to propose....) The thing is, I also love the way Domino magazine does two-tone upholstery jobs, esp with using modern fabrics on older pieces. I wonder how those older chairs would look in two related colors, both neutrals (say, beige and mocha), one on the "inside" of the chair where you sit and another on the outside? Or is that hopelessly trendy, and will I hate it five years from now? Organic, thanks for the good karma, especially given your amazing recent Craigslist finds. I have to admit you were my inspiration! But: I was actually going to take that skirt *off*, not keep it on. If the legs aren't an integral part of the frame, I can swap them out for something airier. At the least, though, I'd refinish them in walnut stain. (I will also refinish the exposed wood on the older chairs, darkening it to walnut, so it matches our bed.) And yes, the older chairs are a great deal: $175 for the set, so $87 or so apiece. (the more modern chair was a whopping $25 at the local Restore.) I seem to be the only person interested right now, so she might even knock the price down further... OK, this is a novel, and I'm supposed to be working! (: Here is a link that might be useful: sunbrella

I am overwhelmed with all the response and taking all your pointers. Thanks a lot! Rita - you made my night with that iron chef metaphor (hahahaha) d_gw - unfortunately I think we don't get that very good discounts at the land of IKEA that much. =( you get like a discounts if you are an ikea family member.) the light beige is around $100 still here (https://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/50322324/#/50321701) celerygirl - that photo is brilliant! I will share it with the wifey. l pinkmountain -Did some measuring and yes all those sofas can be in the living room =). @Everyone I would love to decorate the balcony with my old ektorp (yellow) sofa but that space will be used probably 3-4 months max in a year =) . So I will just put some old dinning set there and a cheap 2 seater sofa. Again appreciate all of the comments!

I love Arhaus and would shop with them, but they don’t do in store pick up and the shipping to my area is just not worth it. Got ready to purchase a bed and the cost to get it to me was $300. I’m going to need 3 stools and most everything comes in pairs or outside that practical cost zone for me. May end up with an additional stool. I’m telling you it is a real struggle to get anything besides the same ole boring and tradition decor and furnishings in that area. I agree with you about the chairs, but they are really good quality and finding something to replace them around here or without paying shipping cost is my same old song and dance. Fabric and an upholster I can get. Plus if I don’t use the stuff, there’s that “What am I going to do with it”? Nobody will pay me anything for it, and I already have a storage building with stuffed full, so I might as well use it. I’m getting to old for this, but I will get it done sooner or most likely later. I’ll send you a photo when it’s hung. And that will take weeks. Have a good evening. Thanks!