entry doors help
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Beth H. :
last yearColleen Kyle
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Need suggestions on new heat system.
Comments (18)I have a 2 storey house that is slightly smaller than yours - 2100 sq. ft. My heating bill for February will ablut $400; Location SE Wisconsin. Our winter weather is much more severe than yours. I heat with natural gas. I do not have an high efficiency furnace. The furnace was installed in the winter or 1975-76 and has a bonnet efficiency in the range of 65% to 75%. The fan control is adjusted to keep the fan running until the heat exchanger cools to the range of 95 F to 105 F. (If the fan shuts off too soon, heat stored in the heat exchanger is vented up the chimney. This is a small effect.) Running the fan longer combats stagnation; That's where hot air rises and the ceilings and upper floor gets hotter than the lower part of the downstairs rooms. There has been times in the coldest weather when I have set the fan to run continously. Many thermostats have a switch to do this. Depending on the layout of the house, ceiling fans may help move warm air down. My heat demand is affected by wind. (2 storeys are more affected by wind than single storey because the wind velocity is the lowest next to the ground and increases some with height.) Not knowing the construction of your wall, I can only tell you about factors that affect heat loss. Wind has two effects: It wipes away any heat that manages to conduct to the outside of the walls, but the larger factor is "windage". When the wall are not wind-proof, the wind moves air through the walls and literally blows the heat our of the house. Back when my house was built, we added a very inexpensive feature that the builder said was the most bang for the buck. We added a tar paper wrap over the entire house before the siding was put on. This was supposed to slow down wind infiltration and I believe it does. It cost only $50 to add this 35 year ago. Today, there are superior constructions. Changing from an oil heater to a gas fired one will not change the BTU requirement, only the cost of the fuel. However, if you move up to a high efficency furnace, you can make a savings without remodeling the house. Olser furnaces typically had bonnet efficiecies in the range of 65% to 70%; The remainder of the heat went up the chimney. Modern high efficiency furnaces can run between 90% to 95% efficient. The Chimney is not used. Combustion air and exhaust both are run in platic pipes through the side of the house. If you have a gas hot water heater, a liner must be put in the chimney for the heater alone. In cold weather, the heater alone is not enough to warm the chimney sufficently and the moisture in the exhaust from the water heater will condense inside the chimney. Combustion gases, noteably, CO2, disolves into the condensate forming an acid that will corrode an ordinary flue. If the walls of your house are not insulated, this will create a big loss. Adding insulation will have a large effect and in addition to reducing heat demand, it will also reduce air conditioning demand in summer. I could not get a good look at the roof in the picture, but it appears that you have good attic insulation. (Snow melts prematurely on the roof with poor attic insulation.) You have a lot of glass area and if the windows are not covered with storm windows, a savings will result if these are added. When storm windows are added, insure these have small vents at the bottom. Two cuts in the bottom of the storm frame having a width of a hack saw blade makes an adequate vent. Make the cuts about 1/4 inch deep. Space the cuts at about the 1/4 and 3/4 width of the window. The purpose of these vents is to permit moisture to escape and to drain any liquid that forms on the window sill. When vents are missing, frost and ice builds up on the inside of the storm glass and tends to wet the window framing. Adding storm doors to entryway doors help and will add life to the finish of the main doors. Modern doors are better insulated than construction of 30 years ago. A storm door has less effect on a well insulated main door than one that is not a good isulator. However, in my part of the world, just about every house has storm doors....See MoreNon-scratch door trim
Comments (2)Seems that it would be easier to simply have the standard wood trim and then apply a large enough clear plastic corner guard to protect the wood from the dogs paws. It might have to be trimmed to fit correctly. This way the guard can be removed if it's no longer needed and doesn't alter the door & frame. The same can be done to the base of the door. Apply a plastic sheet guard. http://www.wrhardware.com/builders-hardware/kick-plates/acrylic-kick-plates/?gclid=CKfJ0cfmvrkCFatj7AodZywAyQ Here is a link that might be useful: Plastic Corner Guard...See Moreexterior makeover ...help!!!
Comments (8)I think you could alter the look significantly with paint and maybe a couple of additions. I brought in wood garage doors, but you could also probably finish yours this color, or similar, if you like the look. Plus, added a new front door. Below, with darker trim. These are just a couple of views; there are any number of possibilities. But the idea is if you wanted to, I think you could do a lot with paint and minor changes....See MoreNew entry door help - long post
Comments (12)I agree with everyone who suggests removing the shutters. You could put a slightly larger wood frame around them if you don't like the "plain" look of the windows. Your house has a simple classic modern look, so I would suggest doing plain glass, or a reeded glass, no pattern; the blinds will be enough pattern, anything else could look too busy. As decoenthusiaste said, you need much bigger (but simple) lanterns, and in a color that will match the metal trim on your new doors. As for the door color, I think you need a color scheme for the whole front of your house before you decide. But if you don't want to change anything: it looks as if your roof is brown, and I would go with the English walnut or colonial brown so that both doors could match. However, the white trim doesn't work well with your brick. I would change the trim and siding color, for example, or even consider a limewash for the brick. The wood-look doors are probably the most versatile color to go with whatever paint colors you choose. And finally, this could be a really good-looking house, but it is in desperate need of some landscaping, especially under the windows, and a front sidewalk. Good luck, and please post more pics as the work progresses. ]...See MoreBeverlyFLADeziner
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