Rooting peach can be done, I did it as an experiment 2 years ago.Using 4.5% IBA hormone.I cut a 1 inch long section from the circumference of the branch(basically girdled it)and left a tiny sliver of bark(under 1/8 inch) to feed it until it formed roots. If I remember correctly I did it towards the end of July and by the end of September there were lots of long mature roots. As for plum I don't have much experience with many of the named cultivars mentioned on this forum, but I can tell you that any of the plums I rooted did so quite easily so I think you shouldn't have any problems. I played with a dwarfing apple stock last year but only got callus and no roots (started too late in the season). Haven't tried pear as they are mostly grown on seedling stock around here, but I might just to experiment. I too searched the internet and found info which stated something to the effect of "peach could not be rooted easily" so I just had to see it for myself and did so with success. I think if you read into it a little deeper you'll find most things under certain conditions are possible but not practical. I wish I could be of more assistance to you by putting some names out there but in my neck of the woods a standard is a seedling and a dwarf is a dwarf hehe. Have fun with it and good luck.

MadFerret, I've read and implemented in my pears/apples the Lorettes summer pruning techniques which could help your situation once you have your rootstock preference. I picked the book up at library sale and it's definitely musty, ca. 1942. I've seen, int the books pictures, some loaded espaliers that were quite impressive. All #1 fruit. Believe it or not, I got my (2 yr from purchased) standard bartlett to flower lots last May. I've read that some pears take a really long time, and I don't know what's the case for Bartletts. It's a 2"caliper tree. Cold temps during pollination yielded no fruit. I have more flower buds for the spring too. I guess summer pruning as done from July-Early september, as the sap is on the decline, promotes the formation of fruitng buds from the basal buds, without initiating a vigorous flushing of vegetative growth. The prunings are dictated by sucker/vegetative development, as they emphasize cutting into new 'wood'/lignified tissue. Be sure to leave some wood for grafting! I'm not a commercial grower but enjoy reading about different techniques like Lorette's that may apply in a small orchard. Have fun! noogy

Windeaux: The plant was advertised as own root, but obviously it was grafted :( It is Francois Juranville ( I think - I honestly forgot the name ) This rose is huge huge huge...it has formed a thicket which is ok for the area it was planted in. I love FJ's flowers and scent, so am happy with this part of the plant :) I hate these huge suckers it throws out.. which is extremely vigorous and a challenge to keep under control. FJ is going to get a haircut this year, along with Marianne who turned into an absolute monster due to my ignoring my garden for 4-5 years. Thanks for ID'ing the rootstock Ann :) Marleah

Q: I want to grow a citrus tree in a pot, indoors. Should I be concerned about grafting, or about which rootstock is used? A: A citrus tree grown from a rooted cutting or air layer will probably be just fine in a pot. If the cutting came from a mature tree, it will bear fruit while still small. So thats a great improvement over growing from seed. But if you can get a grafted tree on Flying Dragon roots, it will be a strongly dwarfed tree, which will produce fruit of very high quality. Grafted trees on other root systems may be just fine in a pot, as well, but they wont have the extreme dwarfing characteristic of the Flying Dragon.