You can probably take it back and exchange it for another cultivar. Try to do the research first - maybe take a list of possibilities with you, so you can look for ones you KNOW won't get too big. I know the one true dwarf I've seen is much more a shrub, aboout as wide as tall, but not over 2' - and no, I don't know the name, I've only seen it planted. There may not have been any intent to deceive, there may have been a mix-up in identity somewhere along the line - 2 varieties may have had their characteristics conflated, and the error was perpetuated. And, sometimes, the "mature" height quoted by tags and nurseries is actually the height after 10 years - I guess that number is as much time as most prople are willing to think ahead. It's usually a good idea to double check, independently. If you really want a small shrub, Gold Mound spirea doesn't get over 3-4', has yellowish leaves and pink flowers - which sounds awful, but isn't. It is about the same wide, so that might not do for you.

While not expert with CMs, I would guess that in the fall, as the CMs start to go dormant, you can dig them up and pot them. CMs are tough trees, even the dwarf ones, and should be able to cope with being moved into a pot. If you chose a fairly large pot, you can keep them in it for the next year, or you can replant them come spring. If leaving them in the ground means they freeze all their top-growth, since you say that they are dwarf anyway, so they won't grow into tall trees, cutting them back hard, if needed, should be fine. As a rule, I don't like the practice of trimming CMs back hard - I think topped trees are UGLY! But these, if they look like the ones I am familiar with, look more like shrubs anyway, not trees. They flower on new growth, so it shouldn't affect flowering. You could also treat a few as tender perennials, leaving them in the ground, wrapping them up well, like your roses, and hope they don't freeze all their top-growth. You could experiment and see what seems the best method - in ground or dug - or you can opt for safety and dig all of them, since you effectively DID the experiment this winter. Kept in an unheated garage or storage area, once they lose their leaves, and kept barely moist, they should be fine over the winter. You could then experiment to see if replanting them or leaving them in pots was the better method.

I'm not sure what "soil prep" means. It could be a good thing (properly dug planting hole, loosening up compacted soil, etc) or a bad thing (amending backfill soil, improper fertilization, etc). Only prune dead, diseased, rubbing, or damaged limbs. You can remove unwanted trunks (root suckers) at ground level (or below). It's best to remove them by pulling them off of the root system when they are very small (and can be pulled). This tends to discourage regrowth, to some degree. Never commit crape murder though! In addition to 'Pocomoke', some dwarf pinkish crape cultivars include 'Chica Pink', 'Chickasaw', 'Delta Blush', 'Ozark Spring', and 'Pink Blush'. There are also quite a few that don't get a lot larger than the dwarf ones and some that are more reddish or purplish, but are still somewhat pinkish looking.

Hi Jane, yes I know they lose their leaves just wasnt sure if I would root rot them if I kept the soil too moist with no leaves :) Thanks Fl Joe makes sense. I will prob get them into the ground after I move.