Review your floorplan. Maybe you can shorten the wall to the point where the door doesn't impact it. Then you get all the space for counter. Some layouts with the frig at the end of a run add a 12" deep floor to ceiling pantry on the side of the frig. This finishes off the space and adds very accessible storage.

Don't do it! You need to go to an appliance store and mock it out ... I think you will find that it doesn't work the way you think it will.

Lots of threads on this topic that you can search on the search bar at top of page. Search for "fridge against a wall" in Discussions.

Here is one:

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6193225/help-fridge-against-wall#n=36

My current french door fridge/bottom freezer doesn't open all the way to the left because it is too close to the wall. I think it's about 6" away.

I've never been able to get the wide bottom deli drawer out. I mean, I could pull the fridge forward a few feet and pull it out, but I haven't needed to. I wish I could though. It's also a pain to reach in and fill a water glass because the dispenser is inside on the left hand side of the fridge.

Don't do it. Just don't.

My new fridge needs 10" of space to have the doors "fully open". They'll have that and more, since I'm relocating the fridge to the other side of the kitchen.

Our current residence has one of each- french against the wall and one door (with bottom freezer) with clearance to open almost all the way. I open them both all the time and feel no real difference user wise. However, I do agree with all of the above comments. Especially not being able to get the crispers out of the fridge in the corner. If there is no other spot to put the fridge and depending on what is in front of the fridge like an island? or a countertop perpendicular? I’d consider getting a single door that swings IN towards the counters- but only if there is a landing zone behind or to the side as it might really box you in. Otherwise- sacrafice the counter space so the door can open as much as possible. Also, different fridges (counterdepth included) have different door swing specs so might just need to research all the options. No fridge will be exactly the same dimensions

The clearances needed are in each fridge’s spec sheets. They vary from model to model. Do not try and go with less than recommended you will regret it.

@roarah: "The clearances needed are in each fridge’s spec sheets."

Some manufacturers are very clear. Others only show the amount of space required to open the doors 90 degress which is not necessarily enough to remove the shelves or drawers. The Whirlpool WRQA59CNKZ is an example of one whose Dimensions Guide clearly shows the space required to fully open the doors:

• "When installing your refrigerator next to a fixed wall, leave a 3.74" minimum space between the refrigerator and wall to allow the door to swing open.
• "7-1/2": Space from a side wall required to open the door at 118° and open the drawers and trays inside the bottom compartments."

I bought a five door kitchen aid fridge to replace a first model french door fridge before my new pantry cabinets were available and lived with a door that could only open 90 degrees for months and it was horrible. The new fridge surround turned the pantry so that instead of 18” x23” it became 15x30” which changed the wall side to seven inches instead of four. We built our own pull out five inch cabinet to house broom and mop plus cleaning supplies and the function of the fridge improved 1000 percent.

Consider adding pullout cabinets so the lost counterspace will be “counter balanced” with functional storage.

A bottom-freezer model installed with the hinge on side opposite the wall makes the most sense. Examples:

• Bertazzoni REF31BMFIX 31 Inch Counter Depth Freestanding Refrigerator (requires 3/8" between the refrigerator and the adjacent wall)
• Fisher Paykel RF170BLPX6N Contemporary Series 32 Inch Counter Depth Freestanding Refrigerator (requires 13/16" between the refrigerator and the adjacent wall)

We have the GE Profile 4 Door French Refrigerator and it calls for 13 3/4” for door to fully open. We have maybe 2” and while not ideal, there’s only been a handful of times when I’ve been annoyed that it won’t open any further. We can get the inside drawers open and access the shelves. It’s at our weekend home so we’re not using it everyday, but I don’t think it would bother me to use it everyday. This pic was taken during construction, and I think it is moved away from the back wall a bit more than shown here. We definitely didn’t want to lose the counter space/drawers on opposite side.

Our current setup is with the fridge against the wall. there is no other place for it. it is totally fine!

Wow! You may have the magic frig the OP wants. What model is it? Can you easily pull out the drawers for cleaning?

@sabrown72: "Our current setup is with the fridge against the wall. there is no other place for it. it is totally fine!"

There are too many variables to simply conclude that the OP's result would be "totally fine".

Thanks everyone. I decided to move the sink to a different location which frees up the fridge to move over so there's 10-12" of space between the wall. I think we could have gotten away with just 4-5" with a handle-less single door bottom freezer fridge. But none of the showrooms or stores had in stock the models we were interested in, so we couldn't test the spacing on the exact one we would buy.

In my research, I found that very few non-luxury brands have zero clearance hinges (Apparantly Whirpool is the only brand that does it on non-built in fridges, but they haven't been manufacturing due to parts shortages). All built-in fridges have them, but those start at $7k and also have limited interior capacity due to their shallowness. So that means the doors swing open by their own width at the hinge, leaving even less space. The manufacturers don't actually specificy these details in the specifications, which is a pain.

I also don't know why the built-in doors are so difficult (and expensive) for manufacturers to add to all fridge types. It seems like a $20 hinge and shortening the door height by an inch is all that's needed - but what do I know.