I am sorry things are not looking on the up and up for your new kitchen. :( After closely inspecting your photos and the plans, I did noticed a couple of things. The base cabinet is not centered under the window to begin with! Look at the plan, not the drawing of what the kitchen should look like. Looks to me that the window is in the correct place, but whoever designed the cabinet layout has placed the base cabinet off center of the window. That would bother me big time! (I have a similar issue in my 10 year old kitchen. I pointed out a minor misalignment of the cabinets to the cabinet designer after my cabinets were hung, and she just shrugged. I wish I had noticed it on the plans. The thing is, it would have been an easy fix, and still is, if I had insisted. I let it go and I hardly notice them now. Also on your plans... instead of a wall, there is suppose to be a refrigerator cabinet surrounding the fridge. Not a wall on the one side. However, I agree that extending the wall would be an easy fix. As for the base cabinets on either side of the range, the one nearest the door looks to be a 12" or less base, where the plans say 18". Granted, there is not enough room for an 18' to begin with, but there is for a 15" base (if that is indeed a 12" base in place.) I believe that the base on the other side was suppose to be a filler, and not the 12" or less that they have in place. Not sure what happened there! If I were you, I would get the person who drew up the plans involved. Don't back down until you are happy. Best of luck!

The toekick issues is owned by the KD. It's an upgrade that has to be chosen in the software, and she didn't choose it. Thank you so much, Cooks Kitchen, for this info because you saved me from totally embarrassing myself!!! I swapped the two cabinets on that side at the last minute so the order was likely correct but there were "unintended consequences". I'm so glad I realized this before I contacted the builder and KD about it or I would have lost all credibility. So, for this item, the fix is on me. I'll probably install baseboard trim. A racked frameless oven cabinet is a big deal. Be sure that is actually the issue. Do a 3,4,5, measure on it. And measure the diagonals That's the plan, but I think it's just the face frame that isn't square. The frame is attached in the middle of the cabinet, above the bottom drawer and below the top doors. At the crown and the floor the cabinet appears level, however, we will be sure to confirm that. I sent the full punch list to the builder and he seems ok so far. We're meeting tomorrow to walk through together and he has already scheduled a meeting with the KD. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again!

April, I would see if your city/county has a registrar of contractors and report him. This is unsafe and the tile job is terrible. He should NOT be doing remodeling homes. I would not give up and replace this at your cost quite yet. There has to be some recourse on your part because these are his errors and they need to remedied, hopefully at his cost. If you can get an inspector out there, do not forget to ask about the WATERPROOFING system. If this was not done correctly, it will likely need to be torn out. If this guy did any other work on your house, you may consider hiring another contractor or inspector to review it to ensure that other shoddy or dangerous work was not done. Editing to add: In my state, the registrar of contractors will send an inspector to review the work. They will give the contractor a chance to remedy it, at their cost.

At this point, the job ($4/sf for a BIG job with LOTS of things to do = awesome price) is finished. The cure is going to be worse than the disease. I'm a big fan of "Wait until you have a problem before throwing money/time at it." It is the cheapest solution I know of (I'm a pragmatist...who is both cheap AND lazy ;-P). My advice is this: leave it alone. Keep 10% 'extra' of the flooring product (roughly 75sf or to the nearest box). This will offer you the peace of mind and the material security you will need to feel secure. You will keep it in the back of your mind. You will know that IF something goes wrong you have ALL THE PRODUCT needed to repair/replace the damaged planks. With a laminate floor I wouldn't worry to much about a bit of bounce. People have 'put up with' bouncing laminate floors for 20 years (the SAME laminate they installed 20 years prior). That tells me the click system is fine. Your floor is a rigid vinyl (8mm thick = nice product). The rigidity of the core will help keep everything stable. The only weak point (as in everything in life) is the link (click edge) between one plank and another. This is the one and only place things *might go wrong. Now to be blunt, a rigid vinyl floor like yours can be taken apart and, "in theory", be clicked back together - BUT I don't like that idea. I really don't. We know the click-edge is delicate. We know that. We've seen them brake by grazing the ground before being installed. A vinyl floor that has been disassembled has a STRONG likelihood of DAMAGED edges. If the edge is damaged then there is almost no way you will get them back together. That means you will have to assume 25% damage should you choose to 'unzip' this floor to the point where it bounces. That leaves you with 75% intact flooring with 25% garbage planks (which must be replaced). As soon as you try to fix the subfloor underneath (by removing the flooring) you will have lost the 'intact' floor. You are guaranteed to spend MORE time, MORE money and MORE materials to deal with this. Compare that to 'leave it alone'. Right now you have 100% intact flooring. Every day you wake up to 100% intact floor is another day with a perfectly functional floor. Every day you have 100% intact floor is another day you have SAVED time, money and materials. Simply leave this floor alone until something MAKES you repair it. Keep your 5%-10% extra on hand for future repairs (and there will be future repairs). Use them if and when you need them.