I am reading these posts with great interest as we moved into a house in September that has an island with Jenn-Air 4 burner gas cooktop and downdraft vent. We've always had electric but wanted gas in an island with an open floor plan so I could interact with our guests while cooking. The Jenn-Air system has many drawbacks. 1. I want/need 6 burners 2. Only one larger burner, two medium and one tiny. 3. Fan is LOUD on high and ineffective, even on high. 4. Fan IS EFFECTIVE at drawing the gas flame away from the pots/pans, thus greatly increasing cooking time. I want to replace this with a 6 burner gas cooktop that has enough space between the burners to use a couple of 12" saute pans plus a couple of 6-16qt pots and a couple of smaller pots. Based on the discussion above and the fact that I installed an 800CFM Broan under cabinet hood that barely kept up with the fumes in the old house, I think I'll want a 1200 or 1600 CFM blower (mounted in the attic to reduce noise in the kitchen). Problem is the master bath and walk-in closet is above the kitchen so I will have to shoehorn the ducting in the walk-in closet. I assume the extra run will eat some of the CFM. Does anyone have recommendations for a cooktop and vent/blower for this application, or links to sites with good product selection and design planning info? What about so-called "stacked" burners that are supposed to allow low simmering without compromising high output? If this post belongs in another category please let me know. I did a search but this seemed to be the discussion that most accurately covers my concerns. Thanks, Don

First, a warning -- I have never lived in a house that needed make-up air. Not even close. Double-pane glass makes little sense for us since all the heat goes around the sashes in our Victorian. My experience with MUA is related to commercial systems. What follows is an opinion about the kinds of things that would make me consider MUA. Unless you have a Code requirement for make-up air, you have a fireplace you use when cooking (I seem to remember that you are South Bay?), have a "naturally" vented gas appliance in "connected space" (no always-closed doors between the hood and the appliance), or have a "tight" house (recent, energy-efficient construction, most likely), I would skip MUA. Even if you do need MUA, the difference in the maximum hood flow probably wouldn't significantly influence the the cost of the MUA system, which I would think was primarily labor driven. If not significantly more expensive, and you can run at least an 8" duct (preferably a 10"), I'd go with 900 CFM for two reasons: * You have it when you need it -- guests over, and the kitchen fills with smoke... * A 900 CFM blower at 600 CFM may be noticeably quieter than a 600 CFM blower at 600 CFM The 24" will serve you well. Enjoy your new range!

What is the CFM for the hood your wife likes? W/ Wolf gas, I would suggest at least 900 CFM. What I don't like about that hood is the MESH instead of BAFFLE filters. Baffles are so much easier to clean. --- Suggestion: get a 42" wide hood, so that gives an overhang of 3" on either side of the range top, which helps capture in a lot more steam (less damage to the side upper cabinets). My DH has been caught w/ the induction cooktop steaming away, when he's preparing his morning coffee, not remembering just how quickly water boils on induction. ----> can I persuade you to consider INDUCTION cooktop? I love my Miele 36". --- May not apply to ALL Broan, but my gf's Broan hood is wicked loud, so loud that she hardly turns it on. --- Remote blower = more expensive, when I was researching for one to go into my 42" copper hood. So I switched plans and went with a 42" Kobe 1100 CFM. good luck, Amanda

I have the largest heaviest Wolf hood hanging from an extension. I can relate that the extension is pretty hefty, and should be tied to real framing structure above it. (I suggest GRK type structural wood screws for good strength, at least in the corners.) The hood is then bolted to this extension as you note. I believe the hood would be difficult to bolt to it if it were necessary to put free nuts above the bolts. This is because the hood will have a sheet metal top. The nuts should be welded in place on the extension after alignment with the hood through holes, or if the steel is hefty enough, tap the steel. ("Only three threads matter.") I see no reason why your approach would not work, given minimal analysis or good experience in strength of materials. You will be trading time for money, and because you won't start out with the tooling required to assure alignment and fit, this time may be significant. This is the time to also plan the path of the duct through the framing. Installation of my hood required use of a hydraulic lift used for installing ceiling sheetrock, due the the weight of my hood and only two guys, one of which was me. I think four regular guys could hold it in place while a fifth inserted the bolts, or just the two guys who delivered my 48-inch Sub-Zero, but the latter pair would likely get angry if it took very long to get the bolt holes aligned for bolt insertion. Also, my peninsula not yet present. If one has to work above an existing counter, hood support and reach to the bolt locations may be difficult, or at least require some planning and temporary support structure. My delicate hood (made for Wolf by Independent): kas