Exposed ductwork gone WAY wrong.
Alecia Mickelsen
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Alecia Mickelsen
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Mad Diary of Zone Busting in Zone 3 ...The End is a Long Way Away
Comments (7)Oh my. What is a passionate rose lover like you doing in that glacial hell hole? Reading about your endeavors has exhausted me and I haven't even lifted a shovel. I admire your grit and determination, but would love to see you rewarded with thousands of blooms on your rose bushes for all your hard work. I bet they could use engineers in zones 7 to 10!...See MoreI hereby declare all freezes gone from Oklahoma until fall.
Comments (29)Carol, I suspect you're right in thinking the rain got the onions because 6" of rain in two separate rainfalls shortly after I planted onions and potatoes got almost of them in the main garden, but not in the Peter Rabbit garden, which is at a higher elevation. The damage to my garden has mostly stopped since I sprayed with Bt last week, but I continue to find and squish an enormous amount of cutworms wherever I go. I'll be bringing you an Indigo Rose, Ildi and Matt's Wild Cherry to the swap so save room for those. Jay, Your plants will be toasty warm tomorrow with a forecast like that. They actually lowered our forecast high for tomorrow from 87 to 85, which might help a bit with the lettuce and snap peas, but probably not enough. Susan, Juliet probably is not a true grape, but there's not necessarily a category it falls into easily, so when it first came out people didn't know what to call it---so they called it a grape. I've noticed some newer tomatoes with about the same size and shape being called cherry roma types, although if they aren't dry paste-types, then that seems like a misnomer as well. You have to understand that when Santa came out it was truly revolutionary and hugely popular because it tasted so good and people loved it so much. So, every tomato breeder in the world was trying to breed the next "Santa" and I think Juliet likely came out of those efforts, as did a bunch of other hybrids that have come and quickly gone because their skin was too thick or their flavor too poor. I haven't tasted a grepe yet that's as good as Santa, and think maybe I never will. It is kind of like SunGold---many have tried to breed the "next" SunGold, but haven't come up with one yet that equals it or surpasses it. When it happens, I think it will be with one of the non-commercial crosses being done by folks aiming for flavor, versus commercially-bred ones where flavor is only one of their goals. Carol, To me, Juliet is just a bigger version of Red Jelly Bean, so if you've grown Jelly Bean, just imagine it larger. I dislike the thick skin on Juliet and Jelly Bean, but if you're raising them for dehydrating, it is irrlevant because that toughens the skin anyway. Paula, That was too cold and too close for comfort. Carol, I can answer that one for my earth sister and hope she won't mind that I do so. Paula's seed-starting efforts were side-tracked by her father's death and all the resulting time she has spent dealing with his estate. I'm bringing her a nice big batch of varieties I selected out for her and put into larger containers so they could get a bit bigger before she puts them in the ground. We're hoping that with large transplants going into her garden at the tail end of the recommended planting dates, she'll still get tomatoes at about the same time as usual. Susan, It was chilly here this morning too--only 47, but tomorrow should be a lot better. I'm not excited about tomorrow's high temps. Dawn...See MoreDid we make a mistake by removing ductwork to bathrooms?
Comments (25)OK, now I'm a little more confused. HVAC guy used 50 sq. ft for both bathrooms which is pretty close and provided the following equation: The heaters have a capacity each of 1275 Btu's. The restrooms are an estimate of 50 sq ft. The manuel J calculation for second floor room with one side exposure to outside is approximately 18 Btu's a sq ft. 50 Sq. ft. x 18 btu's =900 Btu's per restroom. Using BTUs seems to make sense so I did a little more research on using BTUs as a basis. Here's my assumptions because I don't have the Manual J to refer to: Room square foot = 50' Room cubic feet = 400 (8' ceilings) Based on the fact that the nearest heating ducts are in bedrooms and we keep our doors closed and thermostat turned down to 65, I'm going to assume the starting temperature is 65 and we'd want something like 75 temp in the winter, so temperature rise would be 10 degrees. I'm just making assumptions here, so if they seem out of line, someone let me know. I know some calculators use desired temp minus minimum outside temp to calculate the temp rise, but the calculator I've linked to below seems better suited to our needs, as it appears to take into consideration the starting temp which will be set by the house furnace. At this point, I don't know if the primary purpose of these heaters will be to supplement the 2nd floor heating or if they will only be necessary for warming the bathrooms - if they were baseboard a/c units, I would have left them running at full blast this summer to provide some relief to the rest of the 2nd floor. If we're going to need them to supplement the heat, I'd assume they'd be left on most of the winter and the bathroom temperatures would remain fairly constant. But, if the current furnace and existing ducts are able to maintain the house at about 65 degrees, I see them as primarily being switched on in the mornings to heat the bathrooms before morning showers, then turned off before leaving the house. And in either case, I think it's important to take into consideration how long it will take the units to raise the temperature 10 degrees and will that time be different for a unit that's constantly running to assist with maintaining a 65 degree temperature vs. starting from cold to warm a room from 65 degrees to 75 degrees? The calculator below is giving me 3,675 BTUs and 1,077 Watts/hr, which is closer to the recommendations made by the folks here, but conflicts with Manual J calculations. I don't know that much about a Manual J, but it does appear to take into consideration things like 2nd floor room (I assume that also means room underneath is heated), 1 exterior wall. The online calculator does take into consideration factors like insulation type, but doesn't ask if it's 2nd floor. I don't think either wanted to know that the ceiling above is attic space with poor insulation (at this point, anyway) One other thing I discovered in doing more online research is that the thermostats that were installed on the baseboard heaters are single pole, which means they don't actually turn completely off, so does that mean that they will be generating at least some heat year round? Does that mean that they will continually draw electricity year round too? If so, would either of those factors concern you? Any thoughts? Here is a link that might be useful: The Heat Shop BTU calculator...See MoreDuctwork INSIDE AC space - Open Web Trusses
Comments (54)Let me run something by you. All modulating systems run out of modulation and start to cycle at some point whether they are boilers, compressors or furnaces. Zoning, vs. more systems, makes you reach that point sooner.* You will, of course, have some spill-over demand from areas that are not calling for heat or cool. Well in some situations I think it is more about putting the cooling or heating where you want it. Will there be spill over? Sure there can be, but the idea is to be more comfortable in the area of the home you are actually using. This will reduce operational costs because the system won't have to run as long. Could this cause more cycling... sure you bet. But if you are more comfortable for less operational cost what is there to argue unless the system breaks down more. So far I simply haven't seen more breakdowns in zone systems that I've installed. (I've seen it in zone systems installed by builders.) Commercial applications have had zone systems to varying degrees much longer than the residential market for the sheer reason of not only trimming operational costs but also reducing the number of comfort complaints. As far as modulation goes or cycling -- whether regarded as short cycling or load satisfying sure every system is going to cycle at some point because the loads are reduced to that point. Short cycling in my view is only detrimental to a zone system when the system doesn't run long enough to return oil back to the crankcase of the compressor. The absence of oil will seize up the compressor. Other than that.. what difference does it make? If this situation happens infrequently it could lead to the demise of the unit. But it's unlikely to happen for a very long time. Even if you run the system without zoning there is wear and tear. So I think this is more related to being told one specific thing but not applying it properly to what is actually happening. I am seeing differences in my last house to this house, but I am using different equipment than the other house. While it's nearly identical in comfort for the most part the bill is a bit higher. (I think) I haven't sat down and really compared bills that closely. This house I am living in is not complete like the other house as I know I have some thermal envelope problems still in this house I am in now. So until I get these fixes done and see the results I just won't know. The other difference is my system for this house is a 4 ton 2 speed AC where as the other home was 3 ton 2 stage or 2 separate compressors. The 2 speed is merely 1 compressor with 2 different speeds. So it should be interesting over the course of the next couple years to see how this plays out....See MoreAlecia Mickelsen
2 years agoAlecia Mickelsen
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoBeth H. :
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