In terms of whose colour it is (asked above). Ivoire is an SW colour. I wanted low or no VOC paint. Originally, I wanted the BM Aura low VOC paint so that is what initiated the original BM colour match (lousy match). So I then decided to use SW Emerald no VOC paint and go back to the company whose colour it was, for the reasons you stated. Emerald is a very new no VOC SW paint - so likely not what most others on here have used for Ivoire. Not only was their own formula for Ivoire in Emerald paint totally not a match (they admitted it did not match and called the manager - I noticed the mismatch when 1st gallon mixed) - they then attempted to colour match their own colour and did a marginal job - they had already added too much pigment and made it too dark/blah and it was clear that they were going to be unable to get a match as they thought it was good enough and I did not. So back to a BM moore store to attempt yet another match to SW Ivoire. I think the match was okay - but I was fed up at this point and decided that this match would have to be okay - I have a rest of my life to deal with incl. my career etc and this was taking far too much time!. In hindsight, it may have not been quite bright enough, or maybe it is and Ivoire just plays strange on my walls or I made a poor colour choice etc. I don't know. It looks about what Ivoire should look like during the day but just a tad green at night (although new lightbulbs have helped). Mind you, my blue carpets are not helping matters (they will be changed to hardwood in due course). Or maybe I am more sensitive to greenish undertones than others might be - esp. as I had wanted apricot undertones. This post was edited by Scarlett001 on Mon, Dec 3, 12 at 16:26

Ok, I'm back, and refocused. Thanks so much for all the advice (and the football tangent. I'm married to a Steelers fan, so Sunday wasn't a happy day -- record-setting blizzard AND Brady getting another ring). Anyway, I did the rough math and decided that by the time I pay my GC to install and painter to paint my doors, they won't be much cheaper than going with a much better product. Plus, my GC doesn't do exterior doors everyday and I know there's a real benefit to having the experts handle install. I've talked to a few local folks and been advised that HomeGuard is a bit of a better value than Provia -- less expensive and still quite good. I've been quoted $4400 to install factory-painted HomeGuard doors - two 36"x80" flush steel doors plus two 16'x80" sidelites with low E and argon glass. Is this a decent price? And a good way to go? Thanks again.

Ok, now that I have better dimensional info (location and size of posts and beams), here are two variations on the G shape kitchen. Also, I plan on just centering the windows as seen from inside the kitchen. Option A1 is a more detailed and better dimension-ed version of A above: Option A2 is a variation. Basically, I move the fridge down to the other side of the post (but in a way that requires a bunch of explanation): Advantages of A2 - +the work triangle is now within guidelines. Its close but just slightly large with version A1. +I get a really nice large 4+ft pantry + if I ever really wanted to, I could more easily add a freezer column on the other side of that post (just lose some pantry). disadvantages - lose some counter and drawer space in that part of the kitchen (traded for more pantry space) explanation - the fridge is still essentially recessed in version A2. The reason is that I learned that some timber frame owners space out the lower and/or upper cabs out from the wall the width of the post, so they don't have to build the cabs around the post, and can still order standard cabs. The way I have it drawn, the lower cabs are spaced out from the actual wall 6 inches, and the counter is now 31" deep on that wall (standard the rest of the kitchen). The uppers are on the actual wall, so you will still see the post between the uppers and lowers, and the counter is cut around that post in the corner. I could also space out the uppers, or order deeper uppers (trying to keep the cost in check however). I'd really like to move that post by the fridge about 1.5 feet down and put the fridge where the post is now, but I'm not sure that's possible or reasonable. A1 or A2?

your ideas look great. The white trim should go. Definitely break up the 'soldiers at attention' landscaping, especially with an interesting tree/ shrub on the right side, between the windows. I'm a big fan of ornamental grass, but caution -some do grow quite large, so research them, your zone, size etc. Another is a tree- Harry Lauder's Walking Stick. Very gnarly, architectural, quick growing- but can get large. Nice homestead! Good luck.