Should I buy something to guard against moisture (ditra?) You can, but it's not necessary. Is there a recommendation for mastic/thinset/adhesive? DO NOT use mastic, premixed thinset, or ANYTHING that comes ready mixed. Use a good quality latex modified portland cement based thinset. Examples of this would be Custom's Versabond, Laticrete's 253, Mapei's Ultraflex II, or Hydroment's Singleflex. You also want it to be white thinset, as gray will sometimes show shadows through the stone Home Design Expo (where we purchased our tile) says that the process is largely the same. Oh boy. The only similarity is that you use thinset and the same tools. Marble gets set with a much tighter joint (usually 1/16"). Because of that, and the fact that it has a basically square edge, it's very unforgiving with respect to tiles being out of plane to each other. I don't know what they told you about a trowel for setting, but you want a 1/4x3/8" notch. Even with that, you shouldn't be afraid to pick tiles up and either add or scrape a little thinset to get the tiles to sit flush to one another. One other little hint-- DO NOT mesh tape the seams of the cement board before you're ready to set the stone over it. You can then tape the joints, thinset over them, and set the tile all at one time. That way, you won't have "speed bumps" to go over at the seams. You're going to find out just how "similar" setting tile and marble are to each other. :-)

Thank you both. :) Lavender--I am with you on loving floor plans. I do not have so much time as to look at every house plan on every architect's website, but I do like to problem solve with people here on GW. It has been a fun past-time for me since joining. I've learned a lot, too (about kitchen design, in particular. Our kitchen is so small, so for people with actual kitchen space, I've enjoyed reading the suggestions.) And, yes, although my kitchen footprint (or really anything in it) didn't change, it feels SOOO much bigger with the connection to a living space. And, I can supervise the girls playing while I make dinner so much easier with eye contact. Bevangel--unfortunately, we can't go out the front of our house *at all*. When we did the research to add on to the back, we discovered that our house is actually already forward of the setbacks. The city put a street in front of our house after it was built (the street is a cul-de-sac, so it isn't a thoroughfare), and when they did so, apparently the setback is officially within our foundation. We are fine with that--grandfathered and all--but can't build to the north. And, yes, I understand about how you can't touch a structure for it to be grandfathered in. I just can't believe the stairs were okay when they put them in! (Our house was built in 1982--not *that* long ago!) But, I was hoping someone would have a slick solution to that. Also, great observation/thought about not wanting to give up your Master when guests come. I think we will continue to work with the mind-frame that our "Master suite"(!--kind of excited about that prospect) will be upstairs with the girls' rooms, and the guest/flex room will be downstairs on the main floor. And, yes, I too was thankful Summerfield was able to suggest something. I've missed him/her on the board of late--must be really busy. Merry Christmas to you both!

Now, my question is...how have others incorporated existing additions into an older home remodel? Did you just tear everything out (or down) that was newer? Or did you try to incorporate the different elements into the remodel? I'd like to try to recognize the different stages that make up the 'story' of the farmhouse, but still keep with an overall theme. You start by getting a structural analysis of the current house. Can the older elements be saved? Because if it turns out that the addition done in the past is not structurally sound, why incorporate that element? And even if they can be saved, does it make fiscal sense to do so? Just because something was build in the past, does not mean the workmanship is better than what you would have today. My brother has a house that was build in the 1920's. There were some tough times in the 1920's. When he opens up his walls he finds all kinds of things - any type of lumber was used because they used what they could find. And insulation is nothing like what is available today. Unless you know that the finest workmanship of the time was used, you have to be prepared for anything. Then, you consider the other systems that go in the house and how those will impact the structure you are trying to save. How will new electric, plumbing, HVAC, etc. be tied into the old systems. What about insulation? Can these updates be incorporated without damaging the structural elements that you are trying to save? If you need all new plumbing, electrical, and HVAC, does that mean you are demoing down to the studs? If that is the case, and you need a new roof and siding, then what is the value in staying with the footprint of the old house? Financially, does it make more sense to completely demo the building and start from scratch? I am not saying that this is the case for your house, but without having a complete structural analysis plus an analysis the of electrical, plumbing, HVAC, etc. you cannot determine whether it even makes sense to save the house. Once those questions are answered, then you move on to design. At this point you ask if house layouts from the past work with the life you are living today. Some people don't have a problem living in layouts from the past, while others prefer open floor plans, wide doors, walk-in closets, larger laundry rooms, larger kitchens, heck larger rooms in general. And then there are the materials that go into building a house that looks like it is from an earlier timeframe. Are they still available today, at what cost, and are newer designs better? Changes in building systems/materials have usually been made for a reason. You have posted pictures of the 1920's sunroom windows that you like. When I look at them, I see single glazed multi paned windows that are very energy inefficient and a pain to keep clean. Different strokes for different folks, you probably wouldn't care for my house. You also have to figure out how much the current footprint of the house is limiting your ability to design the house of your dreams. If you are completely renovating a house, you are going to end up with a custom home. To me, a custom home means it is customized for the people who are living there. Being unnecessarily constrained by what was, is, imo, not the way to get to a custom dream home. If you don't feel constrained by the current house, than you don't have a problem. But since you have been at this for quite some time and haven't been able to finalize your design, it doesn't sound like the process is making a lot of progress. I suggest getting a complete analysis of the current house, then taking that information along with all your inspiration photos and ideas to an architect that specializes in old house renovations and getting a professional's opinion on how best to get to the goal of a dream home.

Looks like a jewel that you can improve with far less effort than any other buyer, because you understand what to do with a small space, what trade offs to make in order to keep some balance in your life and home. I mean, I trust you not to make it all one big kitchen on the ground floor. Lots of 24" appliances are out there, but almost never the subject of marketing campaigns so the average buyer isn't aware of them. These might all fit together fine. A 24" wall oven holds a lot! I have one. I'm amazed how much better it is than the 30" range it replaced. A 24" induction cooktop will be plenty fine. A single drawer DW, 16"h, can add to your space requirements by that much and no more. Call it ingenious or call it normal. It can work. You can shoehorn a new kitchen into that small space you have now, expanding from the inside and keeping the olde walls where they are. Even the lights can be small. LEDs. Fluorescent T2 and T4 are beautiful strips of light with a cross section the size of a sugar cube. You can have full-sized everything except freezer and fridge. Here is one area where you definitely do have to compromise or settle for less functionality in general. Most of the freezer and refrigeration appliances can go in the basement. That means you walk up and down the stairs a few times every week. In the kitchen, a 24"w or an undercounter drawer unit will just have to be the new norm, for you, and for that house. The fridge has to be small. Putting the cabinet run on the opposite wall means the narrow entranceway seen in picture #1 will have to be moved. If it's feasible, I would do it. At any rate, a 54" hallway is too large in a hemmed in space like this one. It's gotta be a galley, with one side a narrow counter and a run of pantry shelves under it, behind a fabric curtain. The low ceilinged eating area could become a more useful part of the kitchen. There is room for a couple stools or bar chairs, so you don't always have to go to stand, and to go to the other room to sit or to eat sitting. The stairs as is.