Yes, the wall has to be opened up and the pipes moved up to the exact distance needed by the particular brand of faucet that you choose. Then you have to close up the walls, do drywall repair, and attach the finish trim pieces. If you ever have a leak or problem, the wall needs to be opened up to access things as well. Wall mount faucets are best located where an access panel from the other side of the wall can be concealed. The labor will be more than triple what installing a deck mount faucet would be, simply because of the work behind the walls being needed. A deck mount faucet is an easy DIY install, taking 30 minutes at most. You really don't need a plumber for that if your shut off valves are newish. Also, if you are utilizing an existing vanity, it may be too tall for a vessel sink. Vanities that will be short enough for a vessel sink would be in the 30"-32" height, not the 36" height that vanities have become over the last 20 years.

A lot depends on the sink. I don't feel it should be centered in the cabinet. I like sinks pulled forward in the cabinet as much as possible for two reasons. First, less leaning in and more comfortable use. Second, it leaves more space in back. But this is something the fabricator often decides automatically unless it is discussed in advance. And if the counter is stone it can require more delicate templating -- something to inquire about/discuss when they come to template. I have stainless counters so when he came to template I actually had the faucet on hand and we were able to hold it up and see where it should go. Then you can have your calculations at hand but make adjustments at the critical time. That's best case but not everyone can be there. Also, I don't assume counter over hang because it depends on the style, material and fabrication. Some counters have overhangs and some will be flush with the front of the cabinets -- though I don't feel that's most desirable -- and yet modern kitchens may have that. Another point to discuss. Again, with mine, the KD wanted more overhang than I did and I had her pull it back to 1/2-inch. So, what I'd do -- and maybe you've done this already -- is get the spec sheets for the sink you want and the spec sheets for each faucet you're considering. There was a similar thread by sparkling water where I posted those (link is below) and walked through key issues for each. You can see what you think. Measurement formula basically is drain center to inside edge of sink + additional width of exterior sink flange/clips+ setback 2-3" usually (but that depends) + half the diameter of the faucet. I don't worry about the back or the tile thickness unless I was going with very thick 3 dimensional tile or they are building out the wall for some reason. As a rule -- just a guideline -- there should be around 5+ inches in back but that can vary with how the sink is positioned. I pay attention to that as not all cabinets are made the same way. And the sink needs to rest on the frame, of course. If the spout is lined up with the drain (it needn't be dead center) splashing is usually eliminated. But, some faucets don't splash even if they aren't lined up. The deeper the sink, the less splashing unless the water hits something. Splashing also can be a function of the flow rate -- how many gallons per minute the faucet handles and how much water pressure a house has. In the other thread, there was a difference in that among the various faucets. Flow rate also is noted on the faucet spec sheet -- something to consider. This would not be as knotty if more showrooms had the faucets hooked up and functional. One look that way is worth hours of time!! After typing this, I started a thread to compile a smart list of showrooms across the country that offer working faucets. Here is a link that might be useful: sink/faucet thread This post was edited by rococogurl on Sun, May 19, 13 at 19:41

I have a 30" farmhouse sink and I just went and measured my Rohl faucet. It is 10 and 1/2 inches. I can't remember if they called this a 10 or 11 inch reach. Anyway, I went with the longer version that they offered even with my 30 inch sink. I did this because in my other home I am used to this very long faucet (maybe 14 inches) that I have on this huge double sink. It's probably a bit long but I was used to it and I was afraid if I got a short one on my Shaw's sink that I would not like it. Truthfully, I think my Rohl at times is a bit long and gets in the way, but I think the shorter version would have been too short to suit me. I would have to think that with a 36" sink you would want at least a 10 inch. Are you going to have a spray? Hopefully someone with a 36" sink will chime in soon.

I would urge you to make sure that the faucet lines up above the drain. My new faucet, because of the install and because my sink is super large, does not line up exactly with the drain. As a result, I feel that the faucet splashes a bit more than it should. I have a regular undermount cast iron sink. No matter your install, I would encourage you to make sure that the faucet lines up directly above the drain. I'll be curious to hear if others agree with this. Or, perhaps there is some other reason that some faucets splash more than others.