No matter what you do about closets, Bed#3 would be greatly improved by removing the secondary door to the bathroom, then swinging the real bathroom door inward.

I am assuming the 1st scheme is where the permanent closets were situated, in just about the exact same size as the cabinetry you are proposing to save space.

@Patricia Colwell Consulting great point about sounds proofing. And yes if we place the closet there, we wont add the dresser. thank you for your insight.

@3onthetree what you are suggesting is exactly how the layout is now (oops). So maybe I should really think hard of I want to spend the money to mess with it. This addition of the bathroom door from the bedroom came from my daughter wanting a connected bathroom.

With the 2nd door, you reduce a lot of opportunity in the bedroom layout. And think about when another person uses the bathroom, all the light, noise, and smells will carry underneath the door gap. And which way will the door lock, and will she always remember to lock it. Just to save 3 footsteps or feel like a psuedo-ensuite.

Functionally with removing the stick-built construction, you may save the thickness of the wall (4 1/2") and have a more airy feeling if the cabinets do not go to ceiling. But with that, you lose the ability to utilize storage up to ceiling, including maybe the double-stacking of rods.

@3onthetree the current stick built there is a wall in between which doesn't let me use it most efficiently and has some dead space in between. T

he ikea closet system its 92" tall so I can still add the double hanging rods. does that change anything about keeping the stick builts?

In the real estate world, a space is considered a bedroom if it has a door that can be closed, a window, and a closet. You may want to reconsider your decision if you are thinking of selling in the near future.

@Lorraine Leroux yes, thank you for calling that out. It did cross my mind, so I called a couple of local agents and checked city rules. And as long as there is a clear space for storage- be it a reach in closet or ikea, we are ok. But is for sure a consideration worth noting.

This is not a renovation I would consider doing for a minute. Invest in a closet organization system instead.

The final decision is up to you, I'm just trying to give you tidbits to evaluate. Like the flooring in the entire room will have to be new, and does it extend under the cabinets (which many consider non-permanent in the U.S.), and the register which will have to be moved.

@emilyam819 updating the closet doors and the organization system is twice the amount of just removing and adding ikea closets. That’s where this all came from.
Note the flooring/ painting and walls in the space are getting effected anyway. That’s the only reason we are even considering it.

Regarding costs, if you are not DIYing the closet removal, consider you need a handyperson competent enough, or multiple tradespersons, in each bedroom to:

- Protect route to bedrooms for messy construction

- Demo, dispose large items your weekly trash may not take

- Relocating ductwork for heat registers

- Blocking/backer in ceiling and walls and infill the ~5" drywall voids

- Matching where I maybe see a popcorn ceiling

- Paint entire planes (at least 2 walls and ceiling)

- New baseboard

- New flooring

- Hopefully no pull chain light to move

The cabinets @ $1800 compared to a high-end closet system is probably a wash, much less for a closet system you DIY.

Thanks for the break down @3onthetree. And you are right to call these out. Although in our case, We are removing the popcorn in the bedroom, painting and redoing our floors + baseboards. So most things you listed below are already being touched. The bifold single panel doors were 800$ for a set of two doors (the closet would need 2 =1600$) + closet organizer cost. The ikea closet system with organizers was 950$.

- Protect route to bedrooms for messy construction

- Demo, dispose large items your weekly trash may not take

- Blocking/backer in ceiling and walls and infill the ~5" drywall voids

- Matching where I maybe see a popcorn ceiling

- Paint entire planes (at least 2 walls and ceiling)

- New baseboard

- New flooring