After purchasing a Dyson DC17 "Absolute Asthma and Allergy" vacuum and returning it a week later because all I did was sneeze, cough and wheeze during and after its use, I decided to buy a Miele a few days ago. I was also replacing a top-of-the-line, year-old Sears Progressive canister, that spit out more dust than it took in (further proven by a particle scanner)-and although it worked beautifully, smelled terrible and made me cough and sneeze. This is how I decided on the proper Miele model: First, I reminded myself that albeit expensive, the model that I chose was not a life or death decision. Second, I put into priority order the features that were most important to me. For my intense dust mite allergies and asthma, I needed the most intensive filtration system. A close second on my list was how well the machine worked for my home's flooring (mostly hardwood, a few inexpensive area rugs, and two small fully carpeted spare rooms), followed by quality/longevity, and finally, convenience. I did web research, of course, then visited a few Miele retailers. Various salespeople narrowed it down to the Callisto, and so did I. However, the store where I was most comfortable purchasing the Miele did not have the Callisto in stock. So, I went to the next model up (the "Gemini") which they did have, and the only difference is the color, the buttons next to the rotary dial light up, and it has an overheat light. This model comes standard with the smaller 217 turbo head and the parquet floor brush. If the 217 power head is used on Oriental carpets, I would think that the suction power on the vacuum itself could be turned down to a more minimal level, and it shouldn't harm the rugs...just my opinion. I have no problem pushing the smaller power head on my medium-density carpets (and area rugs), and I believe it was the right-sized head for my home's flooring. As for the highest models in the S5 series, (Aquarius and Capricorn, I believe), they have electronic "radio controlled" features, where the lower models in the series do not- they have the rotary dial instead. Primarily, the radio controlled features allow the suction level to the increased or decreased on the hose's handle itself, rather than bending down to change it on the vacuum's body. Also, as you go up in the S5 series, Miele includes the ergonomic handle (which the "Gemini" has, and it is comfortable). I love convenient, electronic touch controls, but besides making the vacuums more expensive, one of the shop owners strongly advised me against getting these electronic models. I imagine they would be more prone to breakdowns, and much more expensive to repair. Another poster was absolutely correct- some of the parts (HEPA filters, heads, etc.) are interchangeable across the Miele models. One can always start more basic and add to their machines- but electronic might not be the best way to go in the long run. As an aside, you will see little, if any, information about the "Gemini" model on the web (and the same for one other in the series, I believe), because Miele forbids these models to be sold or even DISCUSSED on the web. I can't even begin to imagine why. Another note, I talked my dealer into one hundred dollars off the retail price. It took some doing, but I was firm. This is another reason that I didn't mind stepping up to the unit I purchased. From research to purchase of my Miele took two days. I vacuumed on and off for over an hour yesterday and did not sneeze or cough ONCE. I did other cleaning in my bedroom also, but this is the FIRST time that I did not blow my nose at least 5 times upon waking. PLEASE steer clear of Dyson's hype about being allergy and asthma "friendly-" THEY ARE NOT. All of the repair people with whom I spoke cringed at the Dyson name. One referred to Dyson as "that junk." I can't vouch for Sebo or any of the other high end vacuums out there. All I can say is that I am absolutely amazed by the Miele- for both its function, quality, and for being a TRUE asthma and allergy machine. I am sorry for the length of this post, but I wanted to help others out there.

Finishing doesn't imply just proofing. Fabric softener is a finishing agent, starch is another one and proofing agent is another different finisher. Proofing is normally done by drycleaners. Miele from one side is marketing handwash and proofing cycles in residential washers, on the other side they never say that handwash cycles = wetcleaning cause they are afraid to lose some target customers (drycleaners) I proof just-washed raincoats, parkas, ski suits and camping tents on delicate 105°F (my machines haven't proofing cycle yet) I use a product sold by Decathlon (sport gear big box stores) Where did you read miele reccommends no softener for woolens ? are you sure ? FS and lanoline/wool fat as you said help to repel liquid water from wool, this prevents felting They reccommend no softener for fleece, goretex and wind-shielded fabrics and for anything else that has to be proofed or starched (fabric softener avoids proofer and starch to be "caught" by fabrics)

I've used both, and they're pretty much the same (but utterly superior to any other brand). Great detergent. My fabrics just love it!! Usually get it from these guys (they seem to be cheapest and shipping is free) http://www.betterproductsonline.com/cleaning-products/perwoll-fine-fabric-care?zenid=59ftqittq46jpesmq19agdgf42

I wash my wool blankets in my fl machines all the time, with almost always great results. The caveat is there because in washing dozens and dozens of blankets, I have had the rare problem. Most wools are water washable, even if they are tagged dry clean only, but one can't guarantee something sight unseen, of course. However, the upside for most wool blankets is a far softer, and sweeter smelling cleaning with water than with dry cleaning solvents. The main two potential difficulties with wool are shrinking and felting. Both are caused by too much warmth along with too much agitation when wet. If you can keep these to a minumum, then you should have no trouble. However, I would never machine dry a wool blanket, or even tumble it for a few minutes. I always hang my blankets out to dry, preferable on a very breezy mild day. There's nothing wrong with drying in cold weather except for the risk of damage to frozen items banging against something in the wind. (Plus hanging something out in cold weather can freeze your fingers - I use insulated and waterproof ice fishermen's gloves to keep my hands warm in those circumstances.) Before I begin I would carefully measure the blanket in order to know how much blocking may be necessary after the wash. Then I would start by prespotting any clearly stained or soiled area, and rinse that area with water until the stain is shifted. The point of this is to clean the dirtiest areas without subjecting the entire blanket to that level of scrubbing. For prespotting I would use a straight shot of what ever detergent your were planning on using (my suggestions below). Then set your machine up for a barely lukewarm, high water level, slow action and relatively short wash cycle. This can be called delicate, or wool (though these sometimes don't have enough water for an item as big as a blanket) or handwash cycle. In a pinch you can use a shortened (fast wash) permanent press cycle, but that's not my ideal. Unless you are using a top loader, don't be afraid of a high rpm on the spin cycle: I find these are quite effective in removing water and pose no problems with rubbing as the item is basically pressed against the sides of the drumduring the high-speed spin action. After the wash, do not be dismayed if the blanket looks a bit bedraggled and wrinkled, after it's hung on the line and blown about a bit, it will smooth out nicely. It's important to hand block - gently stretch - the item to its previous dimensions while it is still damp. (Compare the post wash dimensions with the ones taken before washing.) Some suggest hanging the item over a couple of lines, but I prefer hanging it up by the edges at right angles to any axis I particularly want to stretch out. I often use dozens of pins on each side to support it. If you need to, you can gently press at low temp, and with steam, to remove any remaining wrinkles when the item rfemains just barely damp. I have washed sheep's wool, alpaca and cashmere with the above techniques. I don't recall ever washing anything made of angora, though. My preferred wool-washing products are Perwol Powder, Eucalan and Delicare (in that order). I used to use Delicare the most, but they now add a fabric softener to it which isn't necessary or good for wool. Perwol liquid is commonly available in the US at Miele dealerships (or online), but Perwol Powder (which I prefer to the liquid formulation) is only available from Canadian Miele dealers. Eucalan is available online and at stores that sell good quality yarns and Delicare can be had a supermarkets in many places. Since I have a FL I don't use Woolite as it is very sudsy and hard to rinse out, as is Orvus, a commonly recommended wool-washing product in fabric conservation circles. But Fl's need truly easy-rinsing products. If you feel the need a bit of vinegar added to the rinse (no fabric softener) may make a sheep's wool item feel better. I use scarcely a tablespoon of detergent or soap in any load. It's better, IMO, to underdose than overdose. Be aware that at first your freshly washed and dried blanket may feel a bit scratchier than beforehand. This is quite normal. Wool fibers are composed of long chains of overlapping scales and washing and agitation, however mild, rumples up the smoothness of these fibers. Give them a few days to a week to recover their poise and I think you will be pleased with the results. As always, start with your most expendable item and work up to the most precious as you gain experience. In general wash only one item at a time and closely monitor the entire cycle when washing any item the first time. Of course, it goes without saying that you have examined each one ahead of time and repaired, or stabilized, any tears or loose binding. Most machines, even my relatively smaller European machines will handle blankets up to normal weight queen-sized. The only ones I don't launder at home are my queen-sized Hudson Bay blankets. I'm afraid they would tax the capacity of almost all home machines as they weigh nearly 25 lbs dry. As the PP noted be sure to never use any detergent with an enzyme in it, nor any highly alkaline product or additive (e.g. STTP). Wool is primarily made of protein and enzymes are added to detergents to break down proteinaceous matter in stains, so you can understand why that would be bad for wool items. If you're old enough you may remember shampoos being touted as non-alkaline; human hair, like wool is best treated with a neutral to slightly acid wash liquor. (But you can bet the shampoos weren't advertising their acid natures. Nope, just doesn't sound too appealing!) If I'm going to do a batch of wools, I try to run a clear rinse cycle ahead of time to flush any remaining residues out of my machines. I hope this helps and encourages you to try washing your wool blankets. I think they will do just fine, and your will be spared the expense and avoid the smelly residues of dry cleaning solvents in your bed. Molly~