Well ours is without question made of 304 stainless. But honestly I don't really see a problem using 430 SS either, depends on the way it was built as in some cases the 430 is better because it holds a weld better and can bend to certain specifications better without cracking. A range made of 430SS inside your house is not going to rust anyway, that is pure nonsense. I DO however think that 430 SS could have more adverse reactions to acidic type foods such as say Tomato Sauce or Lemon juice Vs 304. maybe if you sat it in a corner of an abandoned house for 30 years maybe, but if you use it everyday in a house with AC it is not going to rust, but it very well could have more staining with acidic foods. I think that 304 stainless is critical on a BBQ grill, but not so much on an indoor stove. But I am still glad mine is made of 304 Stainless anyway. But there are many things made of 400 series stainless that work just fine, never rust, one I can think of is most "Food Slicers, Deli meat slicers etc" are made of 400 series stainless. Car exhaust pipes are usually made of 409 stainless because of the better welding and heat resistance. I once had the pleasure of meeting an old guy out in California, he lived in the middle of no where on many acres of land and when I met him I drove through the classic old gate with elk antlers on top and his house was built in around the 1830's, was an old adobe that was built by a Mexican General when California was actually Mexico. House still stands today with the same tile roof, just one addition was added on about 100 years ago but other than that was all original, No AC. He had as his stove a old wood stove that was thickly enameled color of like a seafoam blue/green and all the corners and edges were all Stainless Steel. Had to be a 400 series stainless because I don't think the 300 series was even in use yet. That stove looked like it brand spanking new and at the time I saw it was about 90+ years old. Not a speck of rust on it, of course it was thick as hell but still the surface was still like new. I actually find products "Made in USA" about 75% of the time to be pure crap in every way. I bet 95% of the world views items "made in USA" exactly the way people like Deeageaux does about China. In general about every product I see with "Made in Germany" tag on it is probably about the only one I can generally count on being very well made, I can usually count on a high price for that item also. Most of the working parts in the NXR come from every place except China, it is basically just "Assembled" in China and who better to assemble than those that have been assembling things for decades. Also it is probably the larger brand name companies that are forcing retailers not to carry a quality product that cost far less, that happens all the time in every category of product.

Our door frame has no brick molding which is part of the problem, I think. Every measuring diagram on every storm door site showed measuring between the sides of brick mold. What nothing explains (and should have, I think) is that you have to have a CORNER wood surface to attach the frame of a storm door. The main door is inset into a deep frame which is fronted by decorative fluted molding. The threshold is a couple of inches back from where the frame extends. The space between the jambs where the door has to fit is 35 3/4. When they took the old door off we found that the previous installers had nailed in wood strips on either side of the deep jamb to be able to attach the frame of the storm door. These were not visible when the old door was in place and we didnÂt know they were in there. We thought the door was attached to a perpendicular flat surface.

als6w, There are lots of neat ways to finish off cupboards and peninsulas. It wasn't even something on my radar until I started frequenting GW! Doesn't bother me in the slightest, but I do like it when I see those finishes in other kitchens. For us, seeing the side of the pantry instead of the side of our fridge was such an improvement- we're happy, and we jealously guarded every inch of space on that wall, losing a couple of inches to add a fake door on either end just wasn't an option, let alone the $$$. We actually had ordered an angled cupboard to finish of the run of cabinets for the fridge side- had to reject the first two attempts, and ended up hiring a carpenter to build us a winerack/bookcase combo- far more functional, and we're happy with it. letter100, Our kitchen is 10.5' wide(actually an inch or two less than that). Yes, our walls our 8' high and the cupboards are 39" with a 3" molding and an 1.5" light rail (DH made the light rail, so he made it as small as possible). The peninsula overhang is 12" on the table side (so glad we added an extra 3" from the original plans). There is 5' from the base of the peninsula cabinet to the table. Wouldn't want it any tighter than that. Would have loved 2 more feet of length and depth to the DR part- but as we basically live in the kitchen and eat 95-98% of meals at the peninsula, we stole as many inches as possible from the DR. Our fridge is flanked by two 18" pantries- one is used as a broom/storage closet, the OTF cabinet is 29" deep+ 3/4" door. Any narrower, and I wouldn't be able to reach my pans/trays. I wouldn't recommend the cabinet manufacturer to anyone- (you could search to find out my long sad story)- my kitchen company has gone bankrupt and good riddance is all I can say!

There are a few factors to consider: 1) The "recommended" and/or the "required" height of the hood you want according to the hood manufacturer. Some will say "must be in x to y inch range above the range". Some will say "recommended height is x to y inches above the range and going above that is up to the user/installer". Check the installation instructions, not just their brochures. The installation instructions will sometimes be more specific, especially considering the "recommended" versus the "must". The 10" tall hoods usually have a lower recommended mounting height such as 24-27" or 24-30" above the range. You will find some that will allow you to go as high as 36" above the range. The 18" tall pro hoods usually have a larger range to work with, such as 24-36" or 30-36" above the range. 2) Recommended and or required ranges of hood height above the range according to the range manufacturer IF they have any specifics. The depth of the particular hood you want. Most "pro-style wall mount" hoods will be of the 18" tall variety and be 24" or 27" (more rare) deep. Most "pro-style under-cabinet" hoods will be of the 9" to 10" tall variety and 19" to 22" deep. Height of the individual(s) using the range on a regular basis compared to the front edge of the hood based on depth and install height. If the only cook is 4' 10" tall, you can mount your hood at 24" above the hood (60" above the floor) and clearance should not be an issue. (Sidenote: Mounting a hood at 24" above a high btu pro range, may conflict with the requirements of the range, which may say minimum hood height is 30" above the range top. 24" is not much room if you have some big flare-ups. That could be hazardous!). If the regular cook is 5' 11" tall, then mounting a 24" deep hood at 24 inches above the range (60" total above the floor) or 30 inches above the range (66" total above the floor) can be an issue as the front edge of the hood is right in your face. Going to 36" above the range (72" above the floor) would be more comfortable and easier to use. Remember, you're talking about a pretty deep hood, not an over-the-range microwave which is about 16" deep and isn't right in one's face. 5) Overall look you're going for based on: - Ceiling height - Do cabinets go to ceiling or is there a space above them? - Mounting height of hood above range (24" to 36"). - Top of hood based on mounting height above range and height of particular hood. - How much space is left above top of hood for cabinets and crown (if you're installing crown), or how much space is left if you're not installing a cabinet, but instead go the route of installing a hood extension, so all you see is stainless all the way to the ceiling, a chase, etc. If you have 8' (96") tall ceilings and let's say you do the following: - Install hood at 36" above the range (bottom of hood is at 72" above floor) - Install a hood that is 18" tall puts the top of that hood at 90" above the floor. - You have 6" left for either a cabinet, which honestly doesn't even leave room for a cabinet, or for a hood extension up to the ceiling which is probably a better option using this scenario. - To answer your question on will the 18" look "massive". In this scenario, if you install a 6" cabinet (or really just an upper rail) above the hood, I think it will look massive, out of place. If you use an extension it may look better. If you installed the hood a bit lower and had a bit more room for cabinets above the hood, it might look better (cabinet height to hood height ratio). Same scenario with 8' tall ceilings but: - Install a hood at 30" above the range (bottom of hood is at 66" above the floor) - Install a hood that is 10" tall puts the top of that hood at 76" above the floor). - You have 20" left for a cabinet, which is much more workable and the ratio of cabinet height to hood height (20" to 10") might please you more. If you have taller ceilings...9', 10', etc....you have more room above the range, hood, etc to work with. 6) Electrical issues. Is this an existing situation where the electrical outlet for the hood is already there? Is it possible that might create a conflict with what you want to do now? Are you willing to move it? Conflicts are more likely to occur if you install a new, taller hood and install it at a taller height above the range. The outlet might need to be raised to be above the top of the new hood (in the cabinet or hidden by the hood extension). If it's new construction, that's easier to set at the appropriate height based on the hood and height you choose. Just some thoughts since I've been going through the same decision making issues lately. I would recommend, just drawing an elevation of it on a piece of paper, so you can visualize the #"s. Good luck.