You may absolutely purchase Ikea cabinets without doors either online or in person, whichever you prefer. Each cabinet is really a collection of, say,10 items, each with a part #. At the store, a kitchen person will add the cabinet you want in a Harlig door, for example, and then go in and just remove the door, leaving the other 9 items in your cart. If you go this route, double check size, configuration, and frame color (birch or white) while they're typing it in. Mistakes happen. If you're doing this online, simply select the item you want in the configuration you want, and click on the "Show dimensions, weight and article numbers" link. Then copy each article number into the search button at the top of the page, and the item will appear. Buy it online. Repeat with the next 9 part #s. When you come to a door, just don't buy it. GW is great for some types of info, but you should really check out the Ikeafans web site for more guidance. In order to use Barker doors, you will need the measurements for the doors. You can find these on the Ikea web site if you look hard enough, or you can check out the Ikeafans link below. You'll have to look up info on hinge cup cut out size and location. Barker will cut them wherever you want them, but you need to know what to select/ask for. It is worth comparing the cost of a Barker Cabinet vs. Ikea/Barker Door. For ordinary cabs there's not that big a savings to be had with Ikea. For tall pantry/oven cabinets, or corner cabinets, the difference is substantial. Also, when ordering through Barker Door, make sure to take note of the maximum door width that differs among styles. Good Luck! Here is a link that might be useful: Measurements

Just chiming in - sorry for the lack of updates! It's been 2 years since our (very stressful!) kitchen renovation, but we're super pleased with how everything turned out. (I know you were asking about laundry-bathroom but just gonna write a general review in case others are interested.) We love our Sektion cabinets; the drawer-in-drawer came in super handy for storing things like medication, manuals/warranties, afternoon tea supplies, and lightbulbs/tools/odds&ends. On our stove side we use that drawer-in-drawer for lesser used or back-up cooking utensils (ice cream scoop, tongs, can opener, tea infuser, etc.). I did map out all of our storage when considering what size drawers/cabinets to get, and most everything fit pretty much as planned. For doors, we went with the Ringhult White. It was the most expensive at the time and made me super nervous, but we bought it during the kitchen sale and all the IKEA showroom staff said this was the top seller and best quality door they had. It also satisfied my need for a 'white-white' door, and provided a reflective surface that would help brighten up our lower level flat. No regrets. Easy to clean, no problems with scratching, steam, moisture, etc. I actually found some doors and drawers in the As-Is section at IKEA, so ended up saving $ by returning the brand new boxes for as-is items that were in perfect condition. (Hint: Even though the blue protective plastic on the doors might be scratched, when peeled off, the foil finish was still perfect / unharmed underneath.) We did have one problem with a faulty faucet leaking into the sink cabinet right after we installed it, unfortunately. This did create a little bit of bubbling in the particleboard but since no one is ever looking into the back of our sink cabinet except for future plumbers, and functionally the cabinet has held up just fine, I don't fault IKEA for this - I think any cabinet would have had some cosmetic damage if someone was pouring a cup of water onto it every night for two weeks. Also, we built all the cabinets and drawers ourselves, and screwed in all the handles as well. Though tedious, after the first few, you get the hang of it. There are a few details to watch out for (like how to position and nail in that plastic 'fat L' piece on the back) but overall this was inconsequential to the final result. Our contractor just helped us hang the cabinets on the wall (since I kept freaking out about how they could possibly stay up under all that weight)! Here are some After photos of our kitchen (a few are focused on the floor since I was writing a (very favorable) review on the wood-look tile we used). Pardon the mess... I wish we could live a Pinterest-worthy minimalist life, but alas... :P. Hope this helps and happy to answer any other questions! _____ P.S. One thing we forgot to get (that the IKEA kitchen staff forgot to tell us about) was the metal countertop support piece: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70274628/?query=Countertop+support+fixture Most contractors are able to improvise if you forget about this -- we still ended up adding a sheet of plywood under the quartz -- but I think this helps 'lift' the countertop for sink installation and allows the drawers and doors to close properly. We ended up having to drive back to IKEA multiple times just to get enough of this $2.99 FIXA thing :(. My advice is to buy more and return the ones you don't use. Also, some of the hinges were annoying to install (mainly for the sink cabinet because our large sink got in the way) as were the soft-close dampers, but I had my local IKEA Kitchen department on speed dial, and also referenced many many YouTube videos. Good luck!

This is an old thread, but just in case someone is looking for info on those legs, I did NON-SCIENTIFIC test and I have no numbers to offer but read on... Background, I have been doingwoodworking as a hobby and I always over-engineer my creations for strength and durability. I can say with confidence I understand rather well issues involved here. Now the test: I usedBessey parallel clamps to exert pressure on the plastic leg as it would experience in service. By hand, the clamp will exert the pressure of roughly 1,700 PSI (pounds per square inch). I yanked it as hard as I could. Not even a sound of anything crackling. Then I use an adjustable wrench to get better leverage and I gave the clamp screw another 3 full turns. Not a crack whatsoever. Before I did the test I too was concerned about the legs being plastic, so I bought a set of the metal ones. Lo and behold, the metallic part is mostly just a decoration, the outer tube. The female thread for the for the bolts is plastic. So no matter which way you go, you are using plastic threads. I will be returning the metal legs and keep the plastic ones and I have no worries about the quartz countertop that will be sitting on top of my base Sektion cabinets.

@jdesign - the sample shown looks blotchy but the full display did not. I'm not sure why they chose a door with the blotchiness to be their display piece :/ According to their info, it's a birch veneer. We still have a while to choose and I'll be very interested to see what a Grimslov light gray would look like. I don't love the V groove but it wasn't bothersome in the display. I could certainly live with it for the price difference (about 1/2 of what we were quoted by a local shop for partial overlay doors only and about 1/3 of what we were quoted for Kraftmaid).