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Exterior door - bottom portion is stuck. can it be replaced?

2 years ago

Hi, i am FTHB and trying to figure out things that i can fix myself without contracting services. I have a exterior door where the tube shaped white color bottom portion is not sliding all the way in . In the "bottom portion stuck.jpg" you can notice that when the door is closed , the white tube is not sliding all the way in (it is stuck at the place where the exposed metal has a bent) , this is causing the door not to close. When i examined the white tube like structure , i noticed that a black bush is misaligned within the white tube. In the "bottom portion misalignment.jpg" , you can notice that the black bush is misaligned where a part of it has gone inside the tube. For reference , the top portion of the same door has the correct alignment for the same bush (Attached - top portion for reference.jpg).

I tried several tools like screwdriver , to correct the misaligned bush in the bottom portion of the door. But , i was not able to. What should i do now? Can i replace the entire white tube section of the bottom door and how easy/tough it is? Also what tools do i need to remove this and put a new one. I noticed that this portion is connected at two ends to the hinges , but not sure what tools are required to remove the hinges and how to find the correct replacement part.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

Thanks.

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Comments (6)

fthb 2021
Original Author
2 years ago
Hi , just noticed the photos are embedded within the post. The first two photos are the problematic bottom portion of the door and the third one is the not problematic top portion for reference.
HU-867564120
2 years ago
Just replace it with a new closer. These things aren't built to be repaired.

https://www.amazon.com/Wright-Products-V150BL-PNEUMATIC-CLOSER/dp/B0009YDHJ8/ref=asc_df_B0009YDHIY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=168556243666&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11150085446113012126&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016150&hvtargid=pla-282719828852&th=1
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The above process works well for a painted jamb, but not a stained jamb. The generally requires replacing the damaged portion---the one side as you put it. The snag in replacing the one side is in how the top portion was fastened to the sides and the threshhold. The side piece is set in a dado(groove) and fastened with staples, while the bottom is usually screwed to the threshhold from the underside of the threshhold. It is not too difficult to cut the damaged piece in half and gently work the side piece back and forth and pull it apart---but the staples remain---which makes installing the new piece properly impossible---as well as the screws in the threshhold. So, the best way to replace the side jamb is to remove the entire door assembly, unscrew the screws, pull the staples, install the new piece---after making the mortises for the hinges---and reinstall the assembly. Adding the metal backing and using metal screws to install the closer will help prevent a re-occurrence.
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I should probably have followed up - appreciated the advice here. I was able to pull it out just as described and it turned out OK. My main problem turned out to be that the existing door, and wall in that area, was over 1" out of plumb from top to bottom - that part was a nightmare. But I was able to rip some brick molding and had to build a bit of an extension as well since the original jamb and storm and other bits ended up as a thicker wall. I was even able to keep the top drip edge (I still need to clean up the edge to look nicer). It also turned out the wall studs behind that white trim to the left of the door were rotted at the bottom from water pooling on that step and from chipmunks digging out underneath (no rot from normal weather hitting the door and sill from outside though due to the big overhangs). So I built a form and repoured to fill in the gaps and reform threshold - that part actually came out really well I think. The original was from 1960 and really hadn't rotted anywhere except for the pooling which I addressed, so I think this fix should at least survive me (50).
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millworkman
2 years ago
You need a new door closer, they are available at every hardware or box store across the globe. Unscrew the bracket at the door frame and on the storm door and take it with you to the store. All you should need in the way of tools is a Phillips tip screwdriver. Here is a link from Lowes but all stores will have them.
3onthetree
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
The bracket on the door and door jamb don't look pulled out, so you can probably just leave both brackets and replace only the closer. There is a pin at each end, just slide them out and reinstall the new $10 one you buy. One pin is larger that the other so just make note of that.
fthb 2021
Original Author
2 years ago
Thanks a lot for your help!! I was able to pop out the pins and remove the closer. On closer inspection, noticed the brackets on the door were rusted and old. So will be removing the brackets and the door jamb as well when installing the new closer.
fthb 2021
Original Author
2 years ago
Hi, i installed the closer in the outer glass exterior door. What i notice is , when the inner wooden exterior door is kept open, and i close this outer glass door , the door closes slowly but when it is closed around 80% , it abruptly closes for the rest of the space , sort of hitting with a bang. Is that normal? i did notice that turning the screw in the first picture clockwise, makes the door close slowly , but that effect is only limited to the first 80% of the door close activity. The door closes for the last 20% of the space abruptly regardless of the setting of this screw. Below are the pictures after the installation.

Thanks.

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