Central A/C Condenser Issue - Fan Blades not Spinning at Startup
Tyler
2 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (31)
Related Discussions
Briggs & Stratton 42A707 starting issues
Comments (14)Walt, thank you so much for taking the time to think this through and write about it in detail. I drove to Springfield today in hopes of talking to a mechanic at a huge power equiment business there that is well known for parts and service...unfortunately it has closed and there is no "we've moved to..." sign. This economy is killing everyone. Oh well...sleuthing with you all, I guess! :) Anyhow, to answer some of your comments, I have run two tanks with SeaFoam but seen no improvement since using it. I have a stupid qustion regarding the ground for the battery...I only see the two main battery cables (pos. and neg.) and then they lead underneath the battery compartment/seat area to places unknown and impossible to see or get to without removing the entire metal cover for the mower. I've had experience dealing with battery problems on my pick up truck and I know there was a separate ground wire that was attached with the negative cable for my truck but I don't see a separate ground for this machine. Is it bundled with the negative cable? When I removed the battery from it's compartment, I still can't see where the cables lead (although I saw a white plastic flywheel of some sort under the battery area, what the heck is that?? Just curious!) Is there any way to get to any of this stuff without removing the mowers metal cover? I was going to remove the starter and take it to a mechanic to test it but couldn't figure out how to get it off the motor. I asked a neighbor who rolled his eyes and said "It's only 3 bolts!" but when he looked at it, he couldn't figure out how to get it off there either (made me feel better...the little eye-roller!) Regarding your comment: IF you have a GOOD set of jumper cables, jump directly from the batter to the starter as you said you did with the charger and see what happens. The contacts of the starter solenoid that you hear clicking may be burned until they do not conduct enough current anymore. By passing as above may help tell if this is a problem but would need more checking. I have a good set of automobile jumper cables..I can definitely try this and see what happens. I'll continue to post if I have any luck with this. I think it might be time to junk it and get something new but I really, really hate doing that. I'd rather fix it if it's possible and cost-effective. It's a shame that this engine has a history of this problem yet Briggs&Stratton never dealt with or addressed it. Oh one last thing, would a bigger/stronger battery help in any way or not since you said the starter is maxed out when conditions are ideal? Thanks again!...See MoreReplacement Furnace/Central Air Input Please
Comments (15)Costco is working with a fairly reputable contractor (according to Angie's list anyway). Second estimate direct Carrier authorized contractor (distinguished/presidents award according to carrier's website, for what that is worth). Price was almost $3000 less than Costco for similar A/C systems. Some of the savings (about $750?) came from the recommendation of using the 95% carrier comfort furnace (58MVC100-120) vs. 98% Lennox that the Costco contractor quoted. The Carrier contractor said that 98 was probably not worth the added cost in our situation. Both suggested the 14 SEER single stage was their recommendation. Both mentioned that the 16 SEER 2-stage A/C would not pay for itself in cost, but would save some electric and also provide for improved de-humidification even if the indoor temp setting is relatively high. So, it was quoted as an option. Apparently, the Carrier system integrates this all with the controllers? The carrier comfort systems quoted were 24ABB348 and 24ACB648. Both contractors said they would install a direct pvc outdoor intake/return system. The Carrier contractor noted that the lack of this and other aspects of the current design is greatly limiting airflow that ultimately is causing the upstairs zone to get much less air, especially at the end of the attic duct. As a side note, we are also in the process of getting quotes for attic insulation that will also seal/insulate the run up there which may help a bit also. I'm more impressed with the Infinity system, especially since the cost is considerably less. My only question that I will ask the contractor is that the Comfort line A/C units don't indicate that they are for use with the Infinity control system, as opposed to the Inifity series and some Performance models. Is that an issue or just marketing? They both seemed to quote about the same size AC and furnace, perhaps my measurements are off?...See Moreneed new A/C -switch to heat pump? - central Ohio
Comments (2)Throw out the bid that wants to install a 3 ton a/c on a furnace that only has the capacity to move 2 tons of air. You currently have a 1.5 ton unit. You cannot double this size. Not only is it not warranted, but your ductwork would not handle the extra airflow. Looks like the quick 500 sqft per ton rule, which is highly inaccurate. The 15 SEER heat pump would only be 15 SEER (or close to it) if the new furnace also had a variable speed fan motor. I think for others to advise you on the payback/savings part of your question, they'll need to know your current gas and electric rates....See MoreQuestion re replacing condenser
Comments (13)What I am saying is, you should not replace the condenser (outdoor unit) without replacing the evaporator coil (indoor coil attached to the furnace) and the line-set. The only equipment in the attic is the new furnace and the indoor coil. The coil has no moving parts. Consider this: The outdoor condenser pulls 13 amps of current (12 amps for the compressor & 1 amp for the fan). The voltage is 208 volts. Thus the amount of electricity it uses is 2,704 watts per hour (2,704/1000 = 2.704 kWh) of electricity. In New Haven, CT electricity cost was 11 cents per kWh in 2006. So, 2,704 watts x $.11 per kWh equals $.298 per hour worth of electrical usage. If your system ran 8 hrs. per day at $.298 per hour, the cost of electricity would be $2.38 per day. That would equal $71.52 for one month. The blower on the furnace draws 5 amps of current at 115 volts for a total of 575 watts or .575 kWh of electricity per hour. For 8 hrs. at a cost of $.11 per kWh that equals $.51 per day. At 30 days that would be $15.18 for the month. Outdoor unit cost $71.52 plus the furnace blower cost of $15.18 equals $86.70 of electricity usage for the month, or $2.89 per day. Now, if I use your electricity charges of $305 (with A/C) per month minus $55 (without A/C) per month, that equals $250 of monthly A/C usage. $250 divided by $.11 per kWh equals 2,273 kWh of electricity usage each month or 75.77 kWh per day. In conclusion, if your system draws 13 amps plus 5 amps and the electrical rate is $.11 and your cooling bill is $250.00, then your A/C unit is running 23 HOURS PER DAY. BOB, did I do the math right? Daiseycat3, if the thermostat setting is low, the system might run for 23 hours per day....See MoreTyler
2 years agosktn77a
2 years agoTyler
2 years agoAndrew
2 years agoTyler
2 years agoTyler
2 years agoTyler
2 years agowdccruise
2 years agoTyler
2 years agoAustin Air Companie
2 years agoTyler
2 years agosktn77a
2 years agoAustin Air Companie
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoTyler
2 years agoAndrew
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoTyler
2 years agoAustin Air Companie
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agomike_home
2 years agoTyler
2 years agowdccruise
2 years agoTyler
2 years agomike_home
2 years agoAustin Air Companie
2 years agoTyler
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
Related Stories
DECORATING GUIDESHow to Choose a Ceiling Fan for Comfort and Style
Houzz pros share what fan size to buy, what blade angle to look for and which type works with your ceiling height
Full StoryMOST POPULAR5 Ways to Hide That Big Air Conditioner in Your Yard
Don’t sweat that boxy A/C unit. Here’s how to place it out of sight and out of mind
Full StoryDECORATING GUIDES10 Ways to Hide That Air Conditioner
Feeling boxed in designing around your mini-split air conditioner? Try one of these clever disguises and distractions
Full StoryTHE HARDWORKING HOMEWhere to Put the Laundry Room
The Hardworking Home: We weigh the pros and cons of washing your clothes in the basement, kitchen, bathroom and more
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGN7 Tricky Questions to Ask When Planning Your New Kitchen
Addressing these details will ensure a smoother project with personalized style
Full StoryLIGHTINGWhat to Know About Switching to LED Lightbulbs
If you’ve been thinking about changing over to LEDs but aren't sure how to do it and which to buy, this story is for you
Full StoryGREAT HOME PROJECTSHow to Switch to a Tankless Water Heater
New project for a new year: Swap your conventional heater for an energy-saving model — and don’t be fooled by misinformation
Full StoryFLOORSIs Radiant Heating or Cooling Right for You?
Questions to ask before you go for one of these temperature systems in your floors or walls (yes, walls)
Full StoryMOST POPULAR10 Smart Ideas for Your Laundry Room Remodel
Make washing and drying easier and more comfortable by considering ergonomics, storage and special features
Full StoryHOUSEKEEPINGHow to Choose the Right Vacuum
Upright or canister, for wood floors or carpet: These are just some of the things to consider when choosing a vacuum
Full Story
sktn77a