Look OK to install wood-grain Pergo next to different color hardwood?
btwrite
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
Our house is all hardwood (1964!) except the kitchen. I would really love to have wood-grain-look Pergo in the kitchen, in a very different shade to show that we weren't trying to match the adjacent hardwoods, which would be impossible. I'm looking at a warm gray Pergo (Morning Light) in variegated shades/widths of gray. The current kitchen floor is cream ceramic tile. Our adjacent hardwood is narrow-width honey oak. The kitchen is white and gray, with honey-colored wood cabinets. The Pergo sample in the photos that I'm going to try to send is on the diagonal, but we probably would have it installed going the same direction as our existing hardwoods. Would this look as beautiful as I imagine, or weird because of two different adjacent wood looks?
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Anyone install hardwood to match existing hardwood?
Comments (20)Redroze, I'm just getting back online and seeing your questions, so I'll try to answer what I can. My new floor in the LR/DR was not pre-finished, it was all site-finished. I did put a pre-finished floor down in my office (no pics, sorry) because I work from home and didn't have time to be without my office for the week it would have taken to have floor sanded etc. The pre-finished does have a different feel to it than the site-finished. I wouldn't say it's grooved, just a more defined difference in between the individual planks. The office doesn't adjoin any other room, except the tiled hallway, so I didn't worry so much about the wood being different there. I see from your pictures what you mean about running the planks the same way and wanting to be sure things don't look odd. One idea might be to take up some of your FR planks, like the first 12 or so, and then put them back down interwoven with the new planks. That way there's not a clear line in between the 2 rooms, but rather a more gradual blending. Here's another couple of pictures, this time of my family room. The first one is a before shot of the hardwood floor + a rug-like carpet. The floor created a frame around the carpet. I had the carpet taken up and new hardwood put in where the carpet originally was, then everything sanded and refinished. You absolutely can't tell where the old wood was vs where the new started. In this case, the new is random width because it opens directly to the kitchen (as opposed to the LR/DR which is all the same width). So, one house, all new site-finished floors in the LR & DR, all new pre-finished floor in the office, original/refinished in the kitchen, and half&half refinished + original in the family room. Boy did we have dust! Hope this helps! New:...See MoreHelp with Hardwood Color Selection (Engineered Hardwood)
Comments (30)Thank you HerrProfessorDoktor, I am glad you are letting others know about the issues you are having. It is too bad you regret the dark, perhaps you could restain them lighter in the future? I am very fortunate as I have had dark hard wood floors in my last house and plan to install them again in this house. I love the look and had no regrets last time with care so I think I will be okay. However, I do think it is wise of you to post as there are others who may not know the challenges of dark hardwood floors looking pristine. A rumba is always is a nice little feature to help with much of the dust. ~boxer Here is a great link / poll that talks about this topic. [light or dark hardwood[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/poll-light-or-dark-hardwood-dsvw-vd~5047868?n=235)...See MoreDifferent Hardwood Floor in Living Room From "Wood" Tile in Hallway?
Comments (15)The house is 100 years old which means the floors might be the same age. It is entirely possible that the wood has had its day. A wood floor can only be sanded/refinished so many times and then it is finished. It needs to be replaced. Before you decide on 'other' flooring for the house, PLEASE find out if there is enough wood on the EXISTING floor to get another sand/refinish. To do this, you simply need to find a cross section of the wood. This is often found around floor registers or at the floor's edge (in front of a door, or at a step, some place where you see a transition strip). Find a spot to look at the cross section and then MEASURE the amount of wood sitting ABOVE the tongue. You need a minimum of 3mm of wood to achieve a sand and refinish. The other thing I would like to point out is the wood is in rough shape...but the finish (just from the glow in the pics) looks OK. I'm wondering if the previous owners did a 'buff and coat' (adding a layer of finish rather than having a full sand and refinish). This might be because of resale or it might be because there isn't enough wood left to achieve a full sand and refinish. And is this part of the home and addition? If it is, then the age of the floor/addition might be to your advantage....See Morewill changing hardwood flooring colors in different rooms look ok?
Comments (7)Ask your husband if he's happy with replacing the bedroom hardwood (engineered) in 7-10 years. Ask him if he wants to change the EXISTING wood colour (full sand and refinish) in 5-7 years (well before they 'need' it). Because a poorly thought out install (as suggested in your original post) is going to cause ONE of them to 'go'. For that reason my #1 preference = same site finished wood as elsewhere. The cost difference will be a few hundred dollars (cost of materials + labour) for a small rooms like a bedrooms. My SECOND preference is SOLID hardwood in a factory finish that is CLOSE to the original floor's colour. That way you have TWO solid wood floors that CAN BE site finished in the future. If your husband INSISTS on the installation part, then push for my #2 option. Solid Red Oak in a factory finish that is close to the same colour (or natural). That way you can deal with BOTH floors at a later date. And BTW: carpets hide the WORST subfloors possible. Let hubby know he may have to do some SERIOUS work on those subfloors before throwing down a hardwood floor. Rarely are you able to rip out carpet and lay hardwood the same day. The amount of work that is needed to get carpeted subfloors up to snuff can be $2-$4/sf for labour alone (if you hired out the job). And that's when you ask hubby AGAIN how much he will like a floor he laid if it is bouncy and squeaky and has no one to call but the guy looking back at him in the mirror. Remember: it is CHEAPER to get a professional to do it right the FIRST time than it is to call the professional to fix the mess you made. But then again, flooring professionals make a TON of money dealing with DIY oopsas. If you like your professional and want to send him MORE WORK, you can always let hubby deal with this first and then call your professional SECOND. S/He might be happy for the extra work (ahem....extra money)....See More
btwrite
2 years ago
kculbers
2 years agoI have Pergo laminate flooring in my kitchen that was discontinued. It is in great shape too. My kitchen flooring buts up to my front entry hallway. I changed my front entry hallway flooring (which was a dark slate) to Italian porcelain wood look tile. I matched the tile to the Pergo as best I could. I then had a new oak staircase installed and the carpenter matched the staircase wood stain to my wood look porcelain tile floor. So: I have oak wood, porcelain tile flooring and Pergo flooring transitioning with each other. Ideally, its best to have one type of flooring.
btwrite thanked kculbersbtwrite
2 years ago
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