1. Positively identify where your property line is located & whose side the trees are on. Then request no more pruning if they are on your side, put your fence in the same line as the trees, or interplant smaller bushes/evergreens/trees in the same line as the existing trees, keep quiet if they are on the neighbor's. 2. Bushes or trees will not block the dog from visiting you. It will require a fence. They will improve privacy and look more attractive than a fence, at the cost of some of the land you have rented out if you can't put them in the same line as the existing trees, but only a fence will keep the dog out. You might speak to the husband about splitting the cost of the fence. Around here, when fencing a property line, you stand on the line looking out. The half of the property line on your right is your responsibility, when the neighbor does the same, the part to his right (your left) is his responsibility. This is usually resolved by one person buying the materials, the other putting the fence in. Works out to 1/2 and 1/2. If the neighbor won't work with you to solve the problem, put up the ugliest fence you can create that will still be effective, then plant a screen to hide the fence from your view and let the neighbor enjoy it. 3. Your state may differ, but in my state, you have a right to protect your property and livestock. If the neighbor's dog attacks and harms your dog on your property, the neighbor is responsible for the vet bills and all damages. It is neighborly to warn the neighbor that their dog is wandering, and sometimes you have to make it clearer that you will take all necessary action to protect your property, but the neighbor is still responsible for the damages regardless. You may eliminate the neighbor's dog when he attacks your dog on your property. Here, the victim has a right to self defense and protection of property. Doesn't seem to be the case everywhere. 4. Foremost, make sure your dogs are trained not to roam off your property, which it sounds like they are. Otherwise, you are just as irresponsible as your neighbor.

I stopped by the tree forum because of another issue but want to make a couple of points. Some of the advice already given here is from a horticultural or arboreal perspective: the tree is thought of as THE important object. It denies the primary purpose that the tree serves: to be PART of a landscape... an artistic statement... a subordinate decorative object that adds character and interest--"dressing"--to the house... much as one would place a picture on the wall or a lamp in a particular location on the inside of the home. It is not intended to be a horticultural object grown for it's own sake like one might grow a solitary tree in a park or a tomato in a vegetable garden. It would be much more appropriate to think of this tree as one thinks of a neck tie for a man's wardrobe... not worn so we can see its entirety, but so that what we do see contributes positively to the well dressed man's overall image. The fact that 75% of a neck tie is hidden from view is immaterial. Likewise, growing this tree for a 360* view would be 100% against its designed purpose. What matters is that plants help promote the best presentation of the surrounding property. If it requires a contortion (as an espalier) or a horticulturally unusual juxtaposition (as a one-sided plant against a building) the plants will not care. They have neither thoughts nor feelings. In this particular case the tree is trying to help make the house look less like a large naked box sitting suddenly and abruptly on top of the ground. It's trying to ease the architectural transition to the outdoor world. It cannot do this well from a distance. The question posed for this thread is not really one of horticulture; it is foremost a question of art. When it comes to pruning, I'm not sure why extreme delicacy and caution is so often urged. The fact is, that this tree could be cut down to three feet height and by the end of the summer, half of it would be back in place. It wouldn't be as tall, but it would be thicker, fuller and have a better spaced trunk system. For the most part, the trunks would sort and space themseves uniformly like a giant bouquet... and such a form would not be an unpleasant looking object. It might be just what the house is asking for, but I'm NOT suggesting such drastic pruning. I'm suggesting that working with the trunk system already in place and making the best of it is a reasonable goal. I'm also suggesting work that doesn't need to "go slowly" or be delayed. It can all be done now and in 20 minutes with no unmanageable consequeces. Pruning is not the act of placing branches where one wants them. It is the act of removing them from where one doesn't. Since removing existing growth encourages new growth elsewhere, one merely hopes that it appears where it's wanted and can remain. It's wishful thinking to suppose that the tree itself will know where it should be growing branches and trunks in order to please the homeowner's need for an artistic landscape. It is the homeowner who should be dictating to the tree what is allowed and what isn't, in order to achieve the art form that best displays the house, and displays best against the house. Though the trunk system here is a modified combination, it's multiple trunk portion dictates most of the pruning decisions. Multi-trunk small trees look best with trunk spreads that are between 45* and 60*. The range is arbitrary. It's just what I've personally concluded after comparing hundreds of trees. And part of it depends on the tree's ultimate size and location. Generally, the larger a tree will become, the more fitting a narrower spread becomes. If space is tight, a wide spreading tree may become an obstruction. There's flexibility. Someone's different view of what a proper spread should be would not be in competition with mine; it would just be their different view of an artistic statement. Since this tree is already in its "teenage years" (in "tree terms") we'd not focus on radical changes, but just bring the trunk spread within an acceptable range, seeking to attain balance. The tree should should appear to be standing upright and not leaning strongly in one direction. Second, I'd give an overall trim to the top of the canopy for the purpose of attaining a relatively uniform dome shape; upper growth is currently leaning leftward. If greater control of size and increased canopy density is desired, trim to the "optional limit of canopy." (This "limit" is not ultimate, but is only advice about pruning now.) Third, I'd limb up all the twigs and branches that fall below the bottom of the desired canopy height. For a growing tree, a horizontal line established at 50% of the height is a good rule-of-thumb. See illustration below. It will allow for raising the canopy annually until the desired ultimate height is achieved... at no less than 8' or 9' ht. for the bottom of a canopy in typical situations. Notes about the illustration: I'd remove the trunk labeled "A." It creates an unbalanced, right-ward lean to the overall trunk mass. (See the sillhouette comparison.) Removing it brings the mass into better balance. Additionally, the same trunk is set at a low angle (approximately 45*) from vertical. As it grows and gets longer it has no choice but to get heavier. The added weight will pull it downward. It's not only conceivable but is entirely likely that it will be low and wide-spreading enough to obstruct adjacent passing space in the lawn. There is no reason to be purposely growing an unbalanced obstuction. If cut today, one would endure the work of a 2" dia. cut. If one waits until it becomes a problem before removing it, one may be making a 6" dia. cut (and corresponding wound) and disposing of 80 lbs. of yard waste instead of 8 lbs. There is no reason to wait for unpleasant news to be guaranteed. In the bottom illustration, remove all twigs and foliage below the green line unless it is a desired new trunk (more vertical than 45*) in the process of forming within the accepted range of trunk spread. If the homeowner decides to accept my advice, hopefully, she will report back with an updated photo showing the result.

Yes, good points Susan - a little bit of light peeking through a shrub seems to add some depth, as opposed to a solid mass of leaves and branches. And for sure the trunks can be sculpturally beautiful. I'm glad you have had good results too. But how do you make a small tree look like a large shrub? Terrene, the willow grew new sprouts off the trunks for a year or two but they no longer do. Now I just do a few maintenance trims from time to time. Particularly if I walk under it and it hits me in the head. That is not allowed and since my clippers are always in my pocket it is a swift and easy correction. I suspect the amelanchier will grow some new shoots and suckers and it seems like I ought to allow a couple of new ones each year, just to keep some new growth going. But I'm not sure yet. You are lucky to have a Cornus alternifolia. I think those are so pretty and useful, but I don't think I could keep one happy here. I didn't realize they had berries too - bonus! Lilac do seem particularly tricky, don't they? I've seen all kinds of pruning techniques. But for sure you do want some of those fragrant flowers within reach, good point! Yeah for a girls' weekend in Ennis! I bet that was all kinds of fun! :)

the leaf spots could be oedema. search the internet for pics of that condition (has to do with excess moisture). hard to tell from your photo. have a look at dorie's reply (linked below) to a similar thread from this site on pruning a large camellia. i would prune after flowering, before new growth commences. you could remove some of the small branches in conjested areas to give a more open form, especially near the base. start by thinning small stuff and step back and look for the form you want. camellias can recover from severe or rejuvenation pruning although not as quickly as some other plants. looks like there is a major branch headed toward the house. you could take that one off and clean up the trunk a few feet higher but it all depends on what you like. start with a few and go from there. doesn't have to be done all at once. Here is a link that might be useful: pruning a large camellia