Best Rose: Jeanne Lajoie vs Mortimer Sackler vs James Galway
katemartha (z5/6 nj)
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Sheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
2 years ago
mad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Cut off all buds & blooms on young rose?
Comments (13)Yes ma'am, Annabeth. The yellow genes in Teas and the associated Tea-Noisettes produces some wonderful plants, but they can be SLOW right out of the gate and they HATE hard pruning. They, in particular, require all that stored food in the thick, old wood to explode into the growth you expect from them. It takes them what seems like an overly long time to create the roots and produce the wood they require. Add cooler temps, reduced sun, perhaps drainage issues and any disease or insect inhibitors and you have some real performance issues. Personally, while I love the idea of own root plants, for those types budding IS preferable because of the increased, artificial vigor the root stock adds to the mix. Even budded, they improve and benefit from the TPN treatment. Keeping them canned while you do it speeds things along greatly due to the increased cellular activity of warm roots and warmed sap, as well as the increased bacterial activity in warmer soil. From what I've read, most soil bacteria are fairly dormant in soil temps less than 70 degrees F, so the higher heat (as long as it isn't to the cooking levels) of canned roots helps push them even faster than when in the ground. That's also why standards on suitable stocks (read IXL where the sap flow is tremendous, as opposed to Huey, which is today's standard, and whose flow rate significantly slows as the trunks get longer), tend to grow a lot faster and flower earlier and often longer, than traditional bushes. Putting something weaker on an IXL trunk can push the dickens out of it! Susan, what would I do to push something like I did now? Whatever the size pot the plant is in now, presuming the roots are nearing or have reached the point of benefiting from being up sized, I'd go to the next size pot. I don't like jumping sizes because the roots seldom knit the whole together sufficiently to prevent the root ball from disintegrating when either up sized or planted. Going from a one to a two, then to a three or five, followed by a seven then perhaps a fifteen gallon, gives the roots enough time and warmth to infiltrate the soil ball and create a tight whole with good structural integrity. I hate when I tip the ball out of the pot and the danged thing bare roots on me. I would (and am) use whatever potting soil I find beneficial for my climate and gardening style. Here, because of the high evaporation rate, I use Moisture Control Miracle Grow. I like the timed release fertilizer in it, though be aware that time released anything, releases faster in higher heat. That's why they print "up to three months" on the labels. Make the soil hotter and it leaches out and breaks down faster. Pot the plant in the next size larger can in the soil you prefer. I like to mix organic and inorganic fertilizers. Organics feed the soil, inorganics feed the plant quicker and the additional nitrogen feeds the active soil bacteria so it doesn't rob nitrogen from the plant when it needs it most. Mixing them gets the soil cooking, allowing both the plant to make use of all the nutrients as well as the soil bacteria to do its thing and digest the organics, turning them into the salts which are absorbed by the plant roots. Nitrogen leaches from the soil in water. Potassium and phosphorus tend to stay put where they are, requiring roots to find them for absorption. With any heat, you should start noticing growth pretty much all over the plant in fairly short order. Keeping the flower buds pinched off stimulates an even higher level of growth activity. After several weeks, if the plant is continuing to push the growth, you might consider using a diluted foliar feeding of liquid fertilizer. It can be fish emulsion, Miracle Grow or whatever you prefer. If the instructions state to use a tablespoon per gallon every two weeks, consider using half that strength at twice the frequency. Say half tablespoon in a gallon, weekly. Plants will absorb nutrients through their leaves and canes as well as through the roots. I found in the Valley heat, hosing the plants off to rinse off dust and pollution, watering them well and allowing them to drain and air dry, then following that with a foliar feed pushed them like crazy. In that climate, at that time of the year, diseases weren't an issue. A film of water on the leaf surface won't cause disease. It can actually help prevent them. The spores germinate on dry leaf surfaces, in the presence of humidity when the temperatures are conducive for them to germinate. Rinsing off your foliage can actually help hydrate the plant and remove residues from smog, dirt and other sprays. Some of the most glorious foliage I ever grew were in the old Newhall garden where evaporation was extreme. There was constant wind, constant sun, high temperatures and without the extra water, leaves tended to be smaller and more stressed looking. Running an overhead, oscillating sprinkler on them for a good soak resulted in enormous, clean, healthy foliage on husky, amazing plants. Yes, I know, not everyone has those conditions and these days, none of us can justify nor afford that kind of water. Adjust it to what is appropriate for your conditions and water situation. The hotter, dustier and drier your garden, the more the plants will benefit from overhead watering. Just do it early enough to allow the added humidity to dry before night and you should see benefits from it. I'd had spider mite problems for the longest time when still in the Granada Hills garden and I read and followed all the Organic Gardening suggestions to the letter. Marigolds not only did NOT repel them, all the marigold plants were tented with their webs. Breaking all the rules, eliminating the plants they seemed to prefer and drenching the plants tops and bottoms with a water wand cleared the miserable things up in short order. The roses seemed to love it, too. You have your plant up sized, in the soil of your choice and are feeding it with your food (s) choice. Place it where you feel it receives the best air flow, light, heat, wind protection and can benefit from your focused attention to make sure it has the water it needs. Permitting it to dry out will bring all activity to a halt and can result in parts of the plant dying back, which you know from your normal gardening. If you're trying to create a spectacular plant in a shortened time, it will require more of your attention. A few minutes a day pouring over it to check its progress and attending to any new needs shouldn't add enormously to your gardening time. It will teach you a great deal while you're at it, too. Watching what the plant does in response to what you do is quite educational and a lot of fun! You may stop this treatment when you determine it is appropriate for what you want/need the plant to be as well as when you feel is appropriate for your climate. I can almost do it year round here in Encino as we will never have snow and very, very seldom have any weather cold enough to do any real damage. More severe climates will require tweaking timing and amounts to adjust for the beginning and end of their growing season. It serves no good to keep providing all the resources necessary to push all this lovely growth when a killing frost or several feet of snow are expected while it's still soft. That is pretty much what I did at Limberlost and The Outdoor Room to produce those specimen quickly. You may do any part of it, or all of it to suit your time, energy, interest, checkbook, etc. It does work and it's a very fun, interesting experiment which will teach you more than you ever expected it to. You'll be taking one (or more) of your plants and basically putting them under a microscope. You'll see concentrated results from your actions as the plants respond faster to all you do to and for them. All you're really doing is what specialty growers do to produce the photogenic examples to entice people to buy their wares. If you expect to hold an open garden, or have guests planned for a party or wedding in the garden later in the season, you can really push the maturity of points of interest this way. Without a greenhouse, it's the best way to produce these kinds of results. And, it CAN be a whole lot of fun! (I know, I need to get a life! LOL!) Kim...See More2011 New Rose Plantings - Surprises and Disappointments
Comments (36)I realized that I didn't really answer the original question of the thread. I'm zone 9-10, SW 18. hot and dry summers, mild winters! Apologies as this is NOT the OGR forum and some of my faves are OGRs or old HTs. :) :) :) Ones I really liked this year: Lavender Lassie - I saw a charming specimin of this at Descanso Gardens that I feel in love with. It was absolutely wonderful. I bought a 2 gallon from ARE and planted at the end of 2010. She's put up at least two 5' or so canes with such beautiful clusters of blooms at the end. She seems really strong and vigorous. I can't wait to see what she does next year. La France Cl. - Just gets more beautiful and beautiful. It has some little bit of something that makes it more romantic than a typical hybrid tea to me. Mme Berard - So beautiful. Growing fast and blooming frequently. Tipsy Imperial Concubine Just a baby but keeps blooming! The blooms are such a lovely mix of colors. Sombrieul now in it's 2nd year it's really starting to throw up huge canes,... like 6 feet. I'm in love with it. It's blooms are so beautiful. They have it growing up a huge arbor at Descanso, it's to die for. So many petals... ! Duftendes Weisskirchen Planted 8/10 as a band... it's just a charming little thing. It's blooms are such a vibrant purplish hot pink. It wants to bloom all the time and just is very happy. Eden Cl. and James Galway cl both put on a LOT of growth and bloom this year (they were planted early '10) The Faun (Bossa Nova) this blooms more than anything in my yard and I love the fully double old-style blooms on it. I love the low shape of the bush. Great for a border plant so far. Archduke Charles I love you, Archduke! The blooms change color and even though it's perported to be a slow grower, I'm still getting some growth on mine. Such a charming thing. Madame Joseph Bonnaire the most beautiful creature. Threw out a couple big canes and a big root down through the pot and into the ground. A vigorous thing! Bounced back after I repotted it and I can't wait to see what it does next year after I get it in the ground. The blooms are GORGEOUS. Madame Alfred Carriere Despite being in partial shade, throwing up huge canes... can't wait to see what it does next year. Delicate beautiful flowers,... such strong growth! Dissappointments: Tiffany - an own-root since late '09... still super tiny and rather upset. Might replace it with a grafted one. William Shakespeare 2000 1 of 2 died and the 2nd one hasn't grown (both put in the ground early '10). I'll see what it does next year. Yves Paiget Had to pot because the bed wasn't ready and it outright died, almost immediately after getting it. :\...See MoreLinks to hardy roses in cold zones & best roses for hot & dry climate?
Comments (30)Below is the info. that Floweraremusic (zone 5) in Washington gave on her 2020 winter-survival. She has alkaline clay with rocks at bottom like mine & less snow in winter: "My hardiest roses are the Canadians. John Davis, John Cabot, Wm. Baffin, Morden Sunrise, Morden Blush and Morden Centennial, Victorian Memory aka Isabelle Skinner, also a Canadian rose. All these only have tiny bit of tip damage and bloom a lot with no special care. Also, my Hybrid Perpetuals only have tip damage after winter. Magna Charta, Mrs. John Laing, Black Prince and Marchesa Buccella. The only negative is they don’t have long enough cutting stems. All my Austins are very hardy. The one I just can not grow is Jude. Leonardo da Vinci is super hardy and always healthy. Quietness comes through winter very well. Even Rouge Royale survives beautifully. Cinderella Fairy Tale is very hardy. Gruss an Aachen also. Ballerina and Marjorie Fair are both hardy. Poseidon, Princess Charlene de Monaco and Crazy Love didn’t do as well as I’d hoped. The surprise losses this year are Quicksilver, and Dames de Chenonceau who is left with only 1 cane. Versigny is also reduced down to almost nothing. This was a mild winter with very little snow. " Floweraremusic (zone 5). From StrawChicago (zone 5a with hard black-gumbo alkaline clay & less snow but with freezing rain in winter). Versigny didn't survive winter either. So I lost Versigny TWICE. Besides Versigny, other wimpy own-root roses that don't survive winter well: Paul Neyron, Anna's Promise, Pink Peace (own-root died 1st winter, but grafted-Pink Peace survives many winter), Elantyne, Jude the Obscure, Young Lycidas (bought as grafted-on-Dr.Huey, now with only one cane), Mary Daly, and many floribundas don't survive my zone 5a: Pink Chiffon, Sheila's perfume, King Arthur, Deep Purple, Shocking blue, Honey Bouquet (survived 1 winter). Polka Climber (survived 1 winter), Cloutilde Soupert (died twice on me). Sutter's Gold didn't survive winter, same with many fragrant mini-roses from Burlington nursery. Below are my hardy OWN-ROOT roses in my zone 5a alkaline clay, only Double Delight, Young Lycidas and Lavender Crush are grafted-on-Dr.Huey. Bold-faced are the very vigorous ones: Own-roots with 3 feet of green canes: Carding Mill (since 2012), Princess Charlene of Monaco, Duchess de Rohan, Crown Princess Magareta (since 2012), Zepherine Drouhin, Lady of Shalott, James Galway, Lavender Crush, Queen of Sweden (gave away but very hardy), Poseidon (right below the rain-spout, dug down to 2.5 feet), Scepter'd Isle (very big & hardy own-root but gave that away with its lousy scent). Own-roots with 2 feet of green canes: La Reine (many winters), Blue Mist (since 2012), Prairie Harvest (since 2014), Mary Magdalene (since 2011), Evelyn (since 2012), Radio Times (since 2011), Pat Austin (since 2011), Christopher Marlowe (since 2011), Golden Celebration (since 2011), Lilian Austin (gave away but very hardy), the Squire, the Dark Lady, Wise Portia survived 4 winters but died in poor drainage clay, Dee-lish (since 2015), Twilight Zone (since 2016), William Shakespeare. 2000 (since 2011), Comte de Chambord (since 2012), Princess Anne, Sweet Mademoiselles, Aloha climber, Orchid Romance, Bohemian Rhapsody, Marie Pavie, Lagerfeld (since 2017), Frederic Mistral survived 2 winters but died when I didn't winter-protect with leaves, Sonia Rykiel (survived 3 winters) but died in freezing rain winter, same with 1/4 of the street-trees in my neighborhood, Excellenz von Shubert (since 2013), Own-roots with less than 1 foot of green canes: Gina's rose, Tchaikosky (since 2015), Cornelia (since 2018), Bolero (few winters), Peter Mayle, Sharifa Asma, Neil Diamond, Amber Queen, A Shopshire Lad, Strike it Rich, Old Port (since 2012), Veteran's Honor (many winters), Double Delight (grafted on Dr.Huey), Savannah, Tess of d'Uberville, Gene Boerner (since 2014), thornless Yves Seedling (since 2013), Stephen big Purple (since 2012), Louise Este, Mirandy, Crimson Glory, Liv Tyler survived 1 winter but needs winter-protection, Rouge Royal (bought last year with no winter-protection). Annie L. McDowell (survived 2 winters but needs a wet-spot since it's almost thornless), Nahema (survived 1 winter then died during freezing-rain winter), same with Eyes-for-you (drought-tolerant and doesn't like freezing wet winter), Souvenir du President Lincoln, Madame Issac Pererie and Madame Earnest Calvat, Firefighter (survived 2 winters) but died since it's next to tree. Bayes Blueberry (survived many winters but I gave away), Charles Darwin (gave away since it fades badly), Arthur Bell (since 2012 & killed it since I don't like the flowers). StrawChicago....See MoreCold climate/northern garnders, show me your roses please!
Comments (97)Al: Gorgeous garden, what are the yellow roses in your pics? Also what type of soil do you have: loamy, sandy, or clay? What's the lowest layer of your soil? Thank you. I try to UP my winter-survival, lost many roses in poor-drainage clay. At first I felt bad, but many street trees here (N. Aurora) also died through freezing rain & poor drainage clay in my area. Now I spend at least 1 hour digging a hole, after testing for drainage by dumping a 5-gallon bucket of water. I have rock-hard clay above, with yellowish rocks & sticky & hard clay below that water can't drain fast enough for our heavy rain. Small comfort: Here in alkaline clay I have very little blackspots & no spray compared to my last garden of acidic clay in Glen Ellyn....See More
bellarosa
2 years agokatemartha (z5/6 nj)
2 years agokatemartha (z5/6 nj)
2 years ago
flowersaremusic z5 Eastern WA
2 years agoUser
2 years agoSheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
2 years ago
Diane Brakefield
2 years agokatemartha (z5/6 nj)
2 years agokatemartha (z5/6 nj)
2 years agomad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
2 years agoDiane Brakefield
2 years agoflowersaremusic z5 Eastern WA
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoUser
2 years agokatemartha (z5/6 nj)
2 years ago
oursteelers 8B PNW
2 years agobellarosa
2 years ago
Here's Quicksilver in my Zone 5b garden. She's around 6 feet tall and has been in my garden for maybe 3 or 4 years. The blooms are more of pinky/lilac color - really beautiful, I think.
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