Links to hardy roses in cold zones & best roses for hot & dry climate?
We have both hot summer (up to 100) and cold winter (-20 below zero) in my zone 5a. I like Austin roses for both winter survival and vigorous roots for hot summer. Plus hybrid-tea with less petals tend to become double-petal, flat-out in hot summer.
elks(US5 Can6) I give a link to a webpage that gives cane-hardiness reports of gardens from Minnesota and Indianna to Quebec and Maine, but we could probably give more specific information. Steve elks(US5 Can6)
Here is a link that might be useful: The Articles Page
*** From Straw: From that link, I really like this report from zone 4b, with compost & leaves as winter-protection. THANK YOU, Steve, for providing us that link !!
http://www3.sympatico.ca/wm.saundersrose/articles/afarnsworth.html
From the above link, royal Amethyst was dead even with winter-protection. Reine des violettes dead in zone 5 winter. Mount Bratten (floribunda) with poor survival.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/wm.saundersrose/articles/mccarty.html
I wish I had seen the above !! I also lost Marie Daly, Paul Neyron, Jude the Obscure through the winter. The person also reported Rouge Royal dead, Blossomtime and Westerland as poor winter-survival.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/wm.saundersrose/articles/jprudhomme.html
The above link shows excellent survival of Austin roses. But 2 people reported The Pilgrim as poor-winter-survival & stingy-bloomer.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/wm.saundersrose/articles/johnw.html
The above link is from a zone 4b person in Minnesota, covered with woodchips
Also Cynthia, or nippstress in zone 5b Nebraska gave a long list of how floribundas survive her winter. THANK YOU, Cynthia, for your time helping us cold-zoners !!
Cynthia gave this list of ranking of hardiness for hybrid teas with her experience of 700+ roses, zone 5b:
Below is a bouquet of roses that survived many winters. I killed the dark-red Mirandy .. my kid didn't like the thorns, plus I prefer Munstead Wood. Firefighter died after a few winters. My dilemma now is: should I get again as own-root & protect it well, or should I get Firefighter as grafted?
Firefighter was awesome as own-root, giving 80+ blooms for its first year as gallon-size own-root. Second year was a continuous bloomer. My fault that I didn't winter-protect it. What's your experience with Firefighter as grafted? Thanks.
A few warm-climate folks reported that Firefighter could not take full-sun ... I have a hunch that roses which are heavy-bloomers (Pink Peace, Firefighter) are best grafted on vigorous rootstock to keep up with their pumping out blooms constantly. Pink peace as own-root didn't survive my winter, but Pink-Peace (grafted on Dr.Huey) easily survived winter. Pink Peace is a heavy producer like Firefighter with 50+ blooms per year in partial shade.
Comments (30)
strawchicago z5
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Griffith Buck Roses for a Hot, Dry Climate?
Comments (31)I live in Zone 10 southern California, but within the coastal zone which has misty conditions spring-earkt summer, then settles into a true Mediterranean climate by August which continues till December when the rains start. Many roses will mildew, ball and sulk here during spring - early summer, and then after the dry weather takes over in August, the same sulky roses will bloom beautifully and have clean foliage till December. I tried growing Carefree Beauty last year - probably planted it in June - a nice healthy ownroot rose from ARE with really strong roots. After the first few weeks in the ground and a promising initial burst of growth, CB just sulked and mildewed. It did not improve after the dry sunny late summer settled in, so I shovelpruned it in December. I sometimes gift unhappy roses to a friend's garden in Topanga Canyon which tho inland from Malibu has 100+ temps in the summer, and these roses are often very happy there as long as they get enough water. So maybe CB would do better in a more classic southern California climate than my microclimate provides....See MorePrinciples of rose winter protection in cold zones
Comments (9)Glad this post has been helpful and thanks to folks for filling in points that I'd missed. Michael and Kate are right that burying the graft (the knobby part) of a rose is one of the better winter survival strategies for a rose, since the couple of inches that need to survive are under the ground, and the ground protects that graft. A little leaf coverage around the base, including well-shredded miscellaneous leaves as Seil says, can add all the protection many of us need. Since that leaf coverage also provides spring mulch around the rose, it's a terrific strategy for lazy gardeners like me! Jim, you are indeed cruel, but not necessarily too early in your post. We had 3 feet of snow in western Nebraska last week, and parts of the Dakotas and Colorado are still digging out. Toolbelt - don't waste any time kicking yourself over missed insights in past years of not knowing about GW. Just keep joining in the fun of the discussions, and sharing what you've learned with your friends and neighbors, so they get hooked on the rose bug too! Zaphod, all of these principles apply to band roses as much as any other type of rose, with the added caution that the tender canes are more susceptible to things like moisture and critter gnawing. I plant all my bands in the ground too, though I try not to buy them too late in the summer, and any relatively scrawny plant is going to benefit more from winter protection than a well-established rooted plant. However, even a little canker or squashing from your protection methods can be enough to make it give up, if it doesn't have much of a root system. My method stays the same, to put protection around but not touching the rose, and one-twig wonders, I may make that protection as high as the rose (not usually a problem for scrawny runts) but make sure nothing is touching the base. Beyond that, I keep track of how poor the growth is in its first year, and I might try a more substantial plant (or heaven help me, keeping in a pot over winter like Seil suggests) if it doesn't grow fast enough to survive as a band. Bottom line is give some basic protection a try, but don't kill baby bands with too much material over their little heads. Cynthia...See Moreroses on clay vs sand in hot climates and cold climates
Comments (51)Came back to this thread to check on Comte de Chambord, yes, Val grows it, and I agree that needs loamy soil, lots of rain, and healthier if alkaline. Comte is rooting easily in my wet baggie, and rooted easily in heavy out-door rain, while other cuttings rot. Comte has aggressive root and can root easily in alkaline sand, but I need to make my rooting-medium more acidic for the cuttings which are harder to root. Pink Pet definitely likes dry/loamy soil and warmer climate (Val's pic. is awesome). But died in my soaking wet clay last winter....See MoreCold zone rose gardeners who don't winterize. Are grafted roses best?
Comments (16)I really have mixed feedback on this issue. I totally agree that the robust growers in cold zones do fine on their own roots and you don't have to worry about suckers from the graft. Too robust growers (like gallicas) can be better grafted so that you can plant the graft ABOVE the soil (only) for those super-hardy roses and avoid the gallica taking over the garden bed. I also agree that grafted roses of the wimpier varieties of HTs and floris are more robust in their first year or two and tend to grow bushy faster than own root versions of those plants. However, I've recently started to experience the down side of grafted HTs in a cold climate. First of all, virtually all of the grafted HTs and floris that I've planted with the graft properly buried have gone own root over time if they've survived. For instance, I bought In the Mood grafted from a local nursery and it was fabulous and bushy in its first year. The second year and for every year after that, it was a knee high one-cane wonder until it finally gave up the ghost and died after about 6 years. The same process has been happening more gradually with my grafted Savoy Hotel. It was lush (maybe 4.5' by 4.5') and incredible in its first year or two, ranking in my top 20 of roses. Every year since then it has declined and come back from the winter more slowly. By August this year, my plant in optimum sun and soil conditions has just now reached almost 3 feet with 3 canes on it and a couple of blooms here and there for the first time all season (nothing at all in June). Here's a contrast picture to show that effect - this is 2013 in June for Savoy Hotel at its full 4.5'x4.5' glory. Savoy Hotel is at the bottom right corner keeping up with Madame Isaac Periere in the back of it with no trouble. Granted, this was a particularly good rose year, but you can see the relative sizes. Now just one year later in 2014, here's Savoy Hotel in front of MIP (bottom center) also in June, and this was an average rose year for me. It's too late for MIP on the shepherd's hook to be blooming, but you can see MIP's height by the purple clematis. Notice that she's now in 2014 only 3' high and has about 4 blooms every couple of weeks. She has declined from that since, even though she's still a very nice rose. I don't have any more recent bush pictures for her since I only get the scattered blooms any more, and only late in the season to boot. One other effect I'm seeing in my older grafted roses this spring in particular is graft failure for a lot of my well-established roses with the graft well buried. Even under the soil, it seems like a grafted rose starts running out of places to grow new basal shoots after a while. For instance, this spring I lost an 8 year old Dream Come True (the tall rose at the left of the first picture) for no good reason that I could see, and it was a mild winter. Sure, you see pictures of 50 year old grafted HTs in warm climates, but those are warm climates. I suspect that if we have a 50 year old HT rose in cold climates that started out grafted and is still alive, it has gone own root in that time and is a robust rose on its own roots. My reluctant conclusions are that if a rose is going to be a wimp, it will reach that state on its own whether own root or grafted. If I get an own root HT rose through its first winter it will increase in size to its sustainable height and vigor and more or less stay there for the duration. If I get a grafted HT rose through its first winter, it will decrease in size to its sustainable height and vigor and stay there till the graft fails or it goes completely own root. There are only a few roses where I think the graft did give the rose a little boost in survival over that first winter, Memorial Day and Oklahoma come to mind, but for the most part I don't think it buys me anything in either survivability or vigor after the first year. That's why I tend to grow my HTs and floris on their own roots. I want to know the long-term height it's really going to be in its early years, I get reliable winter survival of the original rose from own roots if they get to a good size in their first year, and I don't have to dig up a massive root system when it dies or deal with suckers. Just my two cents Cynthia...See Morestrawchicago z5
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Khalid Waleed (zone 9b Isb)