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Home Repair Remodeling DIY

Filling (very) large drywall gaps

Jonathan Gunnell

2 years ago

I've got a tricky ceiling transition and some large gaps in my bathroom remodel. The house is a 1960s build with plaster over drywall (and in some areas, additional tile then more drywall). I removed the shower bulkhead. These first 2 pictures are the ceiling area where the bulkhead was. I considered different thicknesses of new drywall to match but couldn't actually get it flush with the existing ceiling in all areas at the same time so this was the best I could do. It's about a 1/4" depth difference in most places from new to old so I think that with plenty of mud, patience, and feathering, I should be able to make it disappear. The metal mesh under the plaster had to be fully removed where the bulkhead was but I was able to cut portions of it out where needed throughout the rest of the corners to save as much of the existing ceiling and wall as possible.

I plan to prefill gaps with 90-minute quickset and possibly use paper tape in the huge crevices like the last picture. Then, tape and mud as usual. Will this work? Are these gaps too large? Are there other tricks or considerations I should be aware of?

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Comments (3)

Seabornman
2 years ago
I have filled some very large gaps like that with setting-type drywall compound. I usually cover with self-stick mesh to give it something to keep it together as it sets
Seattleharpist .
2 years ago
I learned a lot about drywall watching Vancouver Carpenter on youtube. There are different types of joint compound depending on what stage you are in. A good drywall guy will use the correct products and take care of that.
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I’m not a pro so I am reluctant to advise on this, but here goes: Patching with drywall is probably the best choice. Drywall can be such a pain in the butt. So messy! I think that 1 inch gap may be too big for any type of paintable caulking, and the caulk would fall behind the wall, but others may be able to chime in on this. If you could find a piece of molding (small-thin) to add into that crack, with paintable caulk to make it blend in, it may work, but it not done “right” it could detract from the stone and look cheap. Also should paint it the same color and sheen as the walls to keep it from “popping”. If your stone sticks out some then you could get molding that is concaved (I don’t know what it’s called). This is all I can think of. I hope you are able to find a solution that doesn’t detract from your beautiful stone!
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Kate
2 years ago
I first fill it in some with a durabond 90 and after it has dried I use the mesh tape and drywall mud until perfect.

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