Fill gap between dry wall and window apron

9 years ago

I need to fill a gap between the drywall and a window apron, The gap is 1/4 to as much as 1/2 inch wide. I was thinking of putting in a backer using thin, narrow pieces of wood and then filling in with drywall mud.

Is there an easier way to do this? You face this window as you walk into the room.

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Comments (9)

PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
9 years ago
Remove the apron and duplex cover. Install drywall, tape, mud, sand, prime, paint, and reinstall the cover and apron.
graywings123
Original Author
9 years ago
Yes, that would work. I'm hoping to find a less disruptive repair process.
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I'm with Krissie put another piece of moulding over it. Perhaps a 14/ round piece added to the top of the door. If this is an aesthetic repair, IMHO filling a gap like that with flexible caulking won't look good. That being said, if it's not aesthetic (you can't see it normally but need to get on a tool or something to see the top of the soor frame) then what difference does it make? Leave it and forget about it. Lastly, you could remove the top molding, cut out a piece of the drywall and replace with a piece that will fit nicely to the frame, finish the drywall joints, paint the wall and replace the molding. "filler" is not a good solution. Just my 0.02.
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Thx yes was going look around the control valve next. Looks to me that the tile has not been routinely maintained (sealed). So some aging and cracking in grout may have added to the problem. Been in the house two years with no visible issues with daily use, it looked perfect (e.g. no staining in bottom grout until suddenly now). This disscussion really makes me wonder about the way tubs are sealed to walls. A Silicon seal acting like a ~1/4" water dike trapping and holding water makes no sense. Seems to me that there should be a 1/2" gap under the wall backboard with current recommended water barrier behind extended 1/4" further overlapping the tub flange. And their should be engineered a flexible polymer strip to be inserted in the gap to seal between the tub ledge and the tile. It should have antimicrobials in it and be treated annually with an application of antimicrobial treatment. The invention could be a firm microbubble nondegradable polymer. And it should have a GoreTex film like property, where free water can't get across it, very little moisture is held so it dries quickly, and moisture settling behind the bottom tile can excape as water vapor. Slight permeability to the flexible material and a fused backing of the Goretex oriented towards the flange wall could accomplish this. It could have a thin flap on the back topside so it is installed along with the bottom tile and act as the standard 1/8" spacer below the bottom tile. Being flexible and supported from the back edge it could flex downward if the tub ledge moves downward when weight loaded, still helping block water entry. If the tub settles a little permanently, the permeable membrane would still help block transport water out of the gap. A spongy expandable sealed bubble like strip material would allow the most water blockage with flexing and also be best at preventing any air gap developing. Just an idea ... on my wish list.
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Legally, you are required to make the request for repair in writing. Include some pictures to make the situation clear. Request a response within 10 days. Send a written follow up that states that should this safety hazard not be repaired that you will be forced to have it done and deduct the cost of that from the rent that you owe. That’s the legal approach. If you’re getting a deal on rent, and don’t want to cause too many waves, you still need to document the issue and bring the condition of the property to his notice. For all defects. That protects you should he decide that he wants to blame the window falling out and cutting someone on you. Or the rot that goes down into the wall that the water damage has caused. He could blame that on you because you “never told him” about the issue. You need to notify him, even if he won’t fix it. A responsible landlord would want the opportunity to keep up his property.
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You need a replacement sink. I'd suggest a Kohler 3942 depending on your dimensions. If that doesn't work a custom sink will, however countertop and sink replacement become cost effective alternatives in that budget range. Your wife is right. This is very unsanitary, will ruin your cabinet, and perfect bug habitat.
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energy_rater_la
9 years ago
backer rods & caulk.
the wood & drywall mud have little flexibility.
sombreuil_mongrel
9 years ago
We have been using spray foam insulation as backer for large plaster voids. The green-label stuff that is "green" seems to be the best, as it cures out super fast. Then trim flush with a thin saw blade, vacuum the dust and tape with durabond.
Casey
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
9 years ago
"I'm hoping to find a less disruptive repair process."

Remove the apron. Fabricate and install a 3/4" x1" x length of apron below the stool. Reinstall the apron.
dkenny
9 years ago
no..
its much easier to add some drywall..like trebruchet suggested..

outside of the how to fix..who installed the drywall..and window?
they should fix the problem..

I've changed lots of window sills..I've never need to remove this much drywall

-dkenny
graywings123
Original Author
9 years ago
The house is over 100 years old. The drywall was installed sometime between 1960 and 1990, I would guess. Along the way, some framing dry-rotted and the sub-sill dropped. The apron was barely attached when I started my project of window sash and frame rehabbing and adding pulleys, chains, and weights. So I reinforced the rotted framing wood and raised the sill back up. I didn't realize there was going to be that much of a gap when I put it all back together.
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
9 years ago
how about ...

stuff hole with insulation ...

add a piece of molding over such ..

move on with life ... no need even for compound..

or.. remove the apron.. insert one inch piece up under sill ... replace apron one inch lower ...

i am thinking 15 mins.. if you have the ability to rip a one inch moulding .. and no wet cleanup ....

ken
dkenny
9 years ago
so its 100yrs old.

are you trying to make historically accurate?
if you are..hire someone..your way out of your league..

trying to fix the problem..
ok.

drywall..the newer solution
plaster/and lathe..the old way..much harder

easiest..hire some one..this is an easy fix for some anyone
that fixes sheetrock..
been there.its easy..if you know what you're doing..
if not hire someone..
-dkenny

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Fill gap between dry wall and window apron

Comments (9)

Joseph Corlett, LLC

graywings123
Original Author

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Fill gap between dry wall and window apron

Comments (9)

Joseph Corlett, LLC

graywings123Original Author

Related Discussions

energy_rater_la

sombreuil_mongrel

Joseph Corlett, LLC

dkenny

graywings123Original Author

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

dkenny

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

graywings123
Original Author

graywings123
Original Author