I bought a smeg double oven and I've had it on high temperature for about 1-2 hours each time to try and get rid of the toxic chemicals. I've done this about 5-6 times so far The second time I had all the windows doors opened but stayed in the room next to the kitchen for only about 5 minutes and the chemicals from the oven made me feel so sick. Even though the kitchen door was closed! It must have seeped through the gap! I had nausea and had to go to bed really early as I felt so sick. It's dreadful, I am so disappointed that we have to go through all this hassle with a new oven. I've just put a tray of water and lemons in both sections of the oven and put on high heat to try and help rid the smell and absorb the toxins Keep wiping around the oven and just having it on as much as possible before you cook. As there is something very dangerous about the chemicals they r using in the oven! Of all places! Such a good idea! Let's poison everyone! Keep pet birds or any pets out of the kitchen whilst you are de fuming as I read that pets have died because of this chemical smell. It needs to be stopped as I haven't been able to use my oven for weeks and actually feel scared to ever use it. Good luck with your new oven

My parents had a cock a poo who had one toy his whole life, a little stuffed animal that he loved as much as a child loves a special blankie to suck on. I grew up with this dog and thought that's what dogs did. Then, as an adult, I got a jack russell, who destroys all toys. Stuffed animals are meant to be shredded immedialtely and any toy not food related is not interesting. Well, she does dearly love to flip lizards in the air and she has caught some garden moles but otherwise she only has two toys. Stuffed Kongs and stuffed old socks. I take a holey sock and put a bit of meat in it and tie it in a knot. I keep layering socks and meat until I have about a dozen or so socks all stuffed into one another. It makes a big football sized sock that she has to chew through and dig out all the meat. She will suck on those socks for days. Then I either throw them out or wash them for another time. She gets one about every two weeks. If I so much as go down the hall to the linen closet where I keep the clean socks she gets all excited. This works well for us because I wear footies around the house and my feet put holes in the socks quickly. I started saving them for the dogs and I've been doing this now for 5 years or so. They don't like nylabones at all. The other dog, a beagle mix loves tug toys that I play with him.

Depends on what he sprayed. Here is a reponse I wrote recently tgat asked somewhat of the same question. Glyphosate (Round Up) has absolutely no residual soil activity. The chemical binds so extremely tightly to soil particles that it cannot be taken up by the roots of plants. It ONLY affects plants through contact with the leaves and non-woody stems. I have dozens of feet of broccoli, onions, cabbage, lettuce, and potatoes currently growing that can attest to that. I use glyphosate on all my beds prior to planting, and I use the higher rate, a 2% solution for my backpack sprayer, to try and kill any perennial weeds (namely bindweed that has a nasty habit of showing up after any kind of cultivation). If the herbicide that drifted onto your plants was glyposate, any that also landed on your soil simply cannot effect any plants grown in that soil. Glyphosate actually remains in the soil for quite some time. Again, as it is bound so extremely tightly to the soil particles, it is pretty much insoluble and barely moves through the soil profile. Soil texture does play a small role in this however. Coarser textured soils cannot "hold" as much glyphosate as finer textured ones, but that is easily alleviated by using a lower rate. The "rate" that may have arrived via drift would be fairly low and wouldn't have a problem binding even to beach sand. 2, 4-d on the other has shown some residual soil activity in both soybeans and corn. It is recommended (and I think is now on the label) that you wait 7-14 days after applications of this herbicide to plant. Bear in mind a couple things with this. First, this is referring to fields that are directly sprayed with the recommended rate/acre of 2, 4-d. It is not a little bit of drift. The total amount of herbicide in this case would be well below that rate. Secondly it is talking about planting seeds, not larger transplants. So there MIGHT be some potential for 2, 4-d to effect plants subsequently planted in your soil, but I think that it is pretty unlikely. Dicamba on the other hand does have a more significant residual activity and can be translocated through the roots. It is commonly mixed with 2, 4-d. However, Dicamba is usually used a pretty high rate, especially if it is being used to target re-emergence of weeds. It is not usually used at these higher rates in the stuff folks buy at the Home Depot and again, the rate of herbicide drift is already significantly reduced. Imazapyr and imazapic have long residual soil activity and can both be translocated through the roots. These are mixed with glyphosate in products like Ground Clear. Now, unless you ask your neighbor what was sprayed you can't say for sure what was used, but these are about the most commonly used herbicides by the average homeowner. If yellowing leaves, and eventual death of your prior plants were the only effects, it would point to glyphosate or a glyphosate/imazapic or imazpyr mix, as glyphosate is an an amino acid inhibitor and the other two are enzyme inhibitors none of which cause the curling and cupping like 2, 4-d and dicamba which basically overload the plant with auxin and it grows itself to death. Many brands of Aminopyralid, like Milestone, is not registered for used even in agriculture, only in rangeland, conservation areas (such as CRP field) and utility/railroad rights of way. I'm not even sure if the Bureau of Land Management has approved it's use on their lands (if they have its only been in the past couple of years). I use it regularly at the Wildlife Refuge I work at, it has been approved by the US Fish and Wildlife Service, its about the best herbicide on the market for thistles and knapweed.

I've never tried freezing pollen BUT I got some seeds many years back from Cliff Orent that he had forgotten in his freezer for more than 3 years. He told me that and offered them to me if I wanted to give them a try. I did and lo and behold more than half of them germinated! So never say never, lol! Also, I was worried about my short season and if my hips were ripe enough too. I mentioned this on the Rose Hybridizers website and was told by several people that as long as there was any color showing on the hip it was probably ripe enough and to try the seeds. And you know, not all rose hips turn color when they are ripe. So if your hips are in the 90 to 120 day range of maturity I would harvest them and try them anyway.