Birchpoint - Larger tile was from; http://www.flooranddecoroutlets.com/calacatta-porcelain-tile-12in-x-24in.html This web picture looks a lot more beige than my tiles which are more white. You can order a sample. The Floor tile is from Arizona tile: http://www.arizonatile.com/Assets/ProductImages/M/Misingi_Suber_464x464.jpg I think the combination of the taupe floor tile and the porcelain marble tile is the most stunning part of the bathroom. Though some might argue that we should have used mosaic in the bottom of the shower floor but I chose "form over function" for this. With the grab bars which I definitely use because I don't have good balance, I haven't fallen. There is a spray you can purchase on Amazon for tile or other possibly slippery surfaces that can be used if you want to be sure it is less slippery. My tile guy recommended it if i needed more traction. Maybe when I get a bit older, I will apply it for more safety. The size of the shower is one of the best parts of the remodel. 5ft X 5ft is the official size that allows one to say their shower fits the ADA standard. We didn't size ours for that reason but it turns out, it really is the perfect size for us. I love how when you are showering, all sides can be reached without moving too far yet there is still a nice feeling of spaciousness. Some of the pictures I posted in another thread may give you a better idea of the bathroom. Here Also, as I have mentioned in several other threads on GW, not having a shower door has turned out to be so wonderful and enhances the shower experience greatly. We had our contractor build the walls so we could add a shower door if we decided we wanted one but as it turns out, that is the VERY LAST THING we would ever want. To anyone who is in doubt, I say "try it, you will probably like it". Here is a link that might be useful: Hall bath

Hire a pro. There are other issues with your job as well. Not just the spacing issue. But the spacing issue says that the planning and knowledge level isn't there. Too much mortar creeping up between the tiles. Did he use medium bedding mortar? Or thinset? What leveling system? What substrate? Preparation for substrate? How much SLC was used to get the floor flat? Lippage is a factor here. Tile like this is challenging even to Pro. Get a good one and start over.

If your tile installed over plywood subfloor (wire, thin-set, and tile) and you want to make demolition as quiet as possible, you can use a long shale-bar with a flat end to lift the floor up. Just keep lifting by jamming the shale-bar under the wire with the tile, lifting and cutting wire as you go. Using a long shale-bar will be less stress on your back and you can get that floor up in no time... the hardest part is breaking/cutting through the wire and getting everything out. If you have tile installed over concrete rent yourself Jackhammer Trolley this will take the floor up quickly, just be sure to wear eye protection, etc. This will take the floor up quickly, just be sure to wear eye protection, etc and cover everything around.

I've seen #1 in person and quite liked it. I would never purchase flooring without first being able to see it in person and also in the space. I don't live in the same state as the home so I am doing everything remotely until I get there. I have also been in touch with a local flooring company. This isn't a rush decision, I'm just starting and putting together ideas. I appreciate everyone's advice.