Yes, the water in the pan is there to help keep your condenser cooled ... without the water there, you'ld be burning it up. My concern is, if the condensate (water buildup) on the inside of the unit is there because the drain is blocked, is enough water getting to the back area of the unit where the condenser is to keep it cool? There is usually a small drain hole between the front and the back that allows the water condensate from the front to naturally flow to the back and keep that condenser happy. If that hole is blocked up, you need to open it up ... Is it possible to just uninstall the unit, take out outside and direct a good hard water spray into the problem area to look for the drain hole and clear it out? Keep in mind that you'll want to let the unit dry off overnight at least, before plugging it back in if you spray all over it.

I have the exact same problem.. A very large kitchen, dining, living room area, and one very tiny bedroom.. For some ungodly reason, they put baseboard across two full walls in the tiny bedroom room, making it into an oven.. Reducing the heat is NOT an option because the thermostat is in the large living space, so if I reduce the heat until the tiny is bedroom normal room temperature, the entire living space is freezing.. The PROBLEM to be solved is that the amount of baseboard is way out of proportion.. My first choice solution would be to switch about 2/3 of the baseboard in the tiny room to regular pipe and run it under the floor to get rid of it.. However the room is on a slab so it's not possible.. So my current plan is to snip away the fins, little by little, and keep testing until the amount of fins remaining in the tiny room keeps it at room temperature when the larger space is also at room temperature (or at least close).. Theoretically this would make the amount of baseboard in the tiny room proportional to the rest of the space.. QUESTION: Is there any argument against my plan from the pros? Thanks!

I had 25 PlyGem windows by Great Lakes installed about 4 years ago. They include a five section bow, a bay with a double hung on both ends and a large picture with a double hung on both ends. The windows are beautiful inside and out with wood tones on the windows I just mentioned plus two large double hungs in our kitchen. All other windows are white inside and out and are all double hung.The installers took four days to install the windows and the job was impeccable. To the OP, don't know what you have but they don't look like anything we have. We had a window lose its seal. We did not call Great Lakes but rather our dealer who has been in business 45 years. Within 3 weeks they replaced the glass in the bad window. Any brand of window is only as good as the installation and the dealer who stands by their work.

I had a vinyl replacement window leak due to a pinched seal between the upper and lower windows. These windows were designed to be washed from the inside of the house tilt inwards to access the outside surfaces for cleaning. A rubber seal was found to be folded over at one side. This caused the windows to have a small space between them when locked shut. The problem went unnoticed until after the water leaked in during a torrential rain storm. It took only about 10 seconds to correct the window problem by tilting the windows inward as if to wash the outside surfaces and then holding the pinched seal straight while carefully snapping the windows back into the vertical position. Check to see if this is your problem. Unfortunately I now have a strong musty smell due to water that leaked into my wall and probably underneath my new linoleum floor. The linoleum floor is glued on top of tongue and groove wafer-board panels that have a 1/8" thick plastic grid to to allow airflow between the concrete floor and the wafer-board. This is a down stairs bathroom, so replacing the floor involves removing the toilet and vanity. There is no visible sign of mold, just a musty smell. Anyone have any simpler remedies?