ps if mine drifts as it still does sometimes, I remove the knob and put it back on and usually it's working well again (temporarily). weird.

"Did anyone manage to find a real person at Wolf to talk about this problem?" I did and they just say it needs pro servicing. they are not helpful. the class action idea is valid!

Same issue here, it's gotten so bad the large front burner is barely usable. Also, 90% of the dial travel does nothing, all flame adjustment is in the last couple degrees before low. Worst stove I have ever had

when you remove the burner knob and put it back on does that have any effect? (it works sporadically for me. Not a long term fix but a temporary one at least)

One thing I have noticed by comparing the burner knobs that work properly and the knobs that drift is that when i remove the plastic knob and just wiggle the metal stem, the one that has a problem has much more ply compared to the one that works well. So, it may be whole assembly is defective. If we can find a Subzero's General Counsel's email address, we can point the person to this thread so that they understnad our frustrations and there is a discussion of a class action.

I have this problem with my front right knob, and I think I may have stumbled on a fix. Thanks to tom barnes' tip, I took the knob off to try adjusting the burner enclosure. Then I got curious to see what was behind there. I took the enclosure off and looked inside and I saw this green screw. Seemed like maybe someone painted that green for a reason. I thought maybe it was loose, but no, it was tight as can be. So, I loosened it just half a turn, and voila! The knob stays where I put it. Now, this is with the gas supply turned off. I have a burner that is leaking and have a service person coming out to fix it. While he is here, I will ask about that screw. Then I'll test the fix with the gas supply on to see if it works. I sure hope so! I've been frustrated by this for 7 years!

I have developed a definitive solution to the drifting valve problem. The fix is a simple bolt-on assembly that mounts using the two threaded holes on top of the valve body, and creates drag on the valve stem by means of a spring-loaded pin. The pin is threaded and can be adjusted in or out to customize the amount of resistance on the valve (by compressing the spring more or less).

If you set the tension too high, you may have to give the knob a small wiggle after turning it to the "off" position so the knob pops out, otherwise the ignitor will start clicking once the flame goes out. I was able to tune the resistance on mine to both stay in place and also pop out when "off", but just raising the tension a little higher and wiggling the knob is still a pretty good solution and should prevent the problem from ever reoccurring, as the spring pin has enough travel to make up for substantial future wear. I did not have to disassemble my stove to install the parts, as I was able to access the valve well enough by just pulling the knob and trim ring off.

The part is shown in the attached pictures. You need 0.5" of available space above the valve below the knob trim ring for the part to fit. There is plenty of room on my stove (a CG304 P/S) but other stoves may have different clearances.

If there is interest in this part, I will create an eBay listing for them. I made and installed 4 of them on my stove, and finally have precise control of the burners again. It's fantastic after fiddling with the thing every single day for years.

Finally, if you want to build your own, it's a piece of 0.5" square aluminum bar stock, 30mm long. 11/64" holes centered in the width of the bar spaced 20mm apart. Notch one side of the bar in the center to clear the stem, cross-drill and tap a hole for your desired spring pin. I'm using a 2.7-7.3lbf pin with 8-32 thread from McMaster-carr, with excellent results. Mounting screws are M4.

I tried Linda's solution of loosening the green screw on two of my burners, and it did not work for me unfortunately.

amazing work! thanks. If we take your pics and text info will we will be able to get the various parts in home Depot?

The screws should be available at HD, they are M4x0.7 20mm. The other parts will need to be ordered from an engineering supply store like McMaster-carr.

I did have someone PM me so I have created an ebay listing for the parts. They are made to order at the moment and will ship within a week.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/314553165801?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=swudvy9tty-&sssrc=2524149&ssuid=swudvy9tty-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thank you so much Ma Mo for applying your ingenuity to solve this tricky issue and sharing the solution with all of us. Does the ebay cart contain all the parts we need to fix the issue or we need additional parts from HD or McMaster-carr? Thanks you.

Hi Ismail,

The listing is for all the parts required to fix one burner. Nothing else is required except for a slotted screwdriver for installation.

Please make sure there is at least 1/2" of room between the top surface of the gas valve and the underside of the knob trim ring for the part to fit.

I would buy 6 of your kits in a heartbeat. or if you could post the part numbers…THANK YOU!!

I will order a set from you. but 1st could you mark on the photo where is the " 1/2" of room between the top surface of the gas valve and the underside of the knob trim ring for the part to fit." I want to make sure I undertsand it clearly and measure first. thanks again.

When I remove the red knob I see a plastic disc like shown in the picuture. Do I need to remove that to do this fix? If yes, how did you all remove the plastic disc? Thanks,

Ismail,

Yes you must remove the trim ring. Rotate it counter-clockwise and pull and it will come off, exposing the valve.

For the measurement, you need to ensure there is enough room for the part to sit on the top surface of the valve as indicated in the first picture by the red arrow.

Measure up from that surface to the top or front surface of the stove as shown in the second picture. My measurement is 1-1/16". Then, measure how far the trim ring protrudes down into the hole where it sits like in the 3rd picture. Mine is 7/16". Subtracting the two measurements gives you the space between the top of the gas valve and the underside of the trim ring. In my case, it's 5/8" so the part fits.

Updating my comment from 4/19. My fix didn't last. Once I checked that it was OK to loosen that screw, and tried it with the gas turned on, it didn't work. I may try Ma Mo's fix, or may go back to my old fix. Which was a piece of foam held down with double sided tape inside of the metal surround thingy. It creates enough drag on the knob to keep it in place.

I checked mine out, different design but as far as I can make out I do have approx 1/2" space between the top of the gas valve and the underside of the trim ring. If I order and it doesn't fit can we return (minus shipping costs)? thanks again.

Hi tom,

Yes I could do that.

I will order. Hopefully it will fit. If it fits but plain doesn't work, I assume I can also return it (I'll pay to ship it back). thanks.

All, one more issue I am dealing with this stove. The rubber thing that sets the cooking grill on top has come out of most of the grills. Please see the picture. What is the recommended glue to put this back on. All the gorllia-glue kind seem to be not rated for this high temprature. Thank you in advance.

example source: https://www.amazon.com/high-heat-silicone-sealant/s?k=high+heat+silicone+sealant

info: https://www.hotmelt.com/blogs/blog/guide-using-high-temperature-silicone-sealants

A thin amount is recommended with the excess sliced off after it cures.

for those in a hurry: https://siliconesolutions.com/ss-650.html

Toothpicks work😀

This has been happening to me for a few years now and it’s maddening. But something that I just tried that works is pulling out on the knob as I’m adjusting the flame and letting the knob go when it gets to where I want the flame.

I find that I pull out the knob and put it back in usually works to correct the problem at least til it regresses again!

Just a follow up to my above resolution from almost a month ago. Everything is still working as it should, the drift is gone and in my case so is the odor. I am convinced the valves my range came with were faulty. I would suggest to anyone to have them replaced. In Canada the valves are $87.00 CAD each. A trained technician should be able to replace 4 valves with 1- 2 hours.

Hi Richard, Greatly appreciate your follow up on the solution you have implemented for this annoying issue I have fixed other appliances but not a gas cooktop. Are there any youtube videos you found useful that helped with replacing the valves. Thank you.

Hi Ismail, this is the one I referenced. https://youtu.be/GT8bX7uikUQ

Thanks RIchard. I watched the video. This video shows the knobs on the side but the knobs on our stove are on the top. Are the valve and other fixtures inside xpected to be similar?

Hi Ismail, I am not a technician so I really do not know. I used sub zeroes online resources to figure out the part number and then ordered them from the OEM supplier in Ontario Canada.

My thought process was that if I found I was uncomfortable with the disassembly at least I had the parts and could call a professional to do the work if necessary. My best guess at this point is that the valves likely are the same if they are experiencing the same issue but that is just me guessing. To be a clear as a disclaimer I am not a professional in regards to appliance repair. Just a handy guy figuring it out.

Thanks Richard. Appreciate that you explained your thought process. I am in the same boat. I am not an appliance guy either. I just like solving tricky issues by myself if that is possible. Will update on how it went.

@Ismail, I don’t know if you’ve already resolved the rubber pads issue with your grate but we’ve had the same issue and if you call wolf customer service they will send out a grate pad replacement package for free. It seems this is a common issue. It includes the pads and the adhesive.
Also, has anyone had an issue with the little LED type rectangular light on their knob not lighting up when the burner is turned on? The burner works fine. It’s not the knob itself either bc if I switch a knob that does light up and use it on a location that isn’t working then it still doesn’t light up. The customer service rep said it’s prob a loose connection somewhere. I don’t want to pay for service guy to fix something that isn’t really a necessary feature but was hoping there might be an easy fix I can do myself.

Hi Ma Mo, from the pictures, it looks like I would only need one collar for each burner valve... so what is the second collar in the kit used for?

There is only one collar included with each kit

A photo of kit contents may be useful to thread passersby.

@phmtran - Thank you

Has anyone successfuly changed these knobs themselves? I am thinking of ordering new knobs and relplacing them.

I have the fix!!! Sub Zero knows about this issue, but won’t talk about it. However, if you call an authorized repair and parts service, Sub Zero will cover the parts and labor free of charge! Wolf does stand behind their products, BUT you do need to call this in yourself. We finally got tired of futzing with the knobs and called, prepared to just pay to fix it if it was cheaper than a new range. The repair person examined the range and said, "Yep! Known issue. We will have this fixed in under an hour." And they did. And all the burners work great again!!!

So what parts were replaced?

All four burner valves.

Thanks for posting your experiece Virginia. Do you mind sharing which area/state you got this done. I will call the authorized dealer or SubZero but they will claim that it is not warranty issue.

Virginia, Thank you also. Could you share the firm that you used for repair. I am in Ontario as well.

Regards, K

Here is where you can look up a service company your area.

https://www.subzero-wolf.com/locator?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAq4KuBhA6EiwArMAw1DqB3qCQtZvS8qI7nqTEaE-xooVA20bTObg2a-kNCJXNlgG-VfTCTxoCuDIQAvD_BwE

Thank you for the good news and info. so in order to get this fixed free did you get them to agree to do that prior to service person coming? did service person come and diagnose the burner valves and then you had to call Wolf/ subzero? Ie whats the effective way to manage this? 1yr ago, when i called the official service people in my part of NYC they sent a tach and quoted an exorbitant fee. so i want to know the best way to negotiate this. thanks!

Full story - we have had the burner problem for years, but lived with it because we too were told it would be an exorbitant fee by the authorized appliance tech. I started this thread originally because of that frustration. The range is seven years old. A month ago, the oven stopped heating properly. We could live with the burner drift, but the oven was nonfunctional (dual fuel range) and that truly turned the range into a five grand paperweight where a perfectly functional $1,500 range would have slid in quite nicely. We called the tech company and just mentioned the burner issue on the phone in passing as a side note, but that we really needed the oven fixed. They sent the techs out the next week, and they had brought the burner valve replacements with them - we didn't ask, they just brought them. They took a look at the range and said, "oh yes, the burner valve is a known issue and Sub Zero is paying for our parts and labor. The oven problem is not covered, so that will be $X to fix for parts and labor," which we had expected. It was a pleasant surprise to get the burner valves replaced at the same time at no cost.

This is just our experience - YMMV. I was trying to help this group by posting what happened for us to close the loop on the thread, and now this is as far as I can go. Good luck to all!

Thank you so much Virginia! First, I called the local service center they had for my area (which I found online from the Wolf site) and they said it wasn’t covered bc I was out of the warranty period (2yrs). So then I called Customer Care at Wolf directly 800-222-7820 and chose option #4. Explained the issue and yes, it is a known issue! They are going to call the service center I originally called and send for approval to get the trip charge, parts, and labor covered. Again, I so appreciate you posting your experience. We have been living with this annoyance for years! Good luck to everyone else.

Hi Virginia, Thank you so much for posting your experience. I called one of the authorized service provider and got a service scheduled. The people at the front desk gave me the standard answer that I need to pay for diagnosis if it is not covered warranty item. I agreed. When the service person showed up, he looked at the problem and said he will call it in and should most probably will be covered. Next day they confirmed back, saying it will be covered. Next week, the same service person came in and changed all the 5 valves and finally the knobs work as expected. I used to be so negative on the Wolf brand but becasue of the fact that they were willing to cover the issue even after 5 years., i now have a very positive opinion of the company and the brand. Thank you again.