We looked at many of these brands as well. Our price for Pella Architect Series double hung vs. Windsor Pinnacle Clad were virtually identical. Windsor was able to show me their extruded aluminum which looked solid. When I mentioned this difference to the Pella guy, he told me Pella is far superior and that extruded aluminum is really just a fancy marketing phrase used by the competition. However, he couldn't demonstrate the superiority of the product, so in the end we are planning to go with the Windsor. We priced Anderson - it was a bit less than the Windsor / Pella quote. I was not sure about the Anderson product as it doesn't seem to be aluminum at all (but maybe I just misread). Some things that had a big effect on the price (which I didn't previously think about): 1.) Number of lites --- the more you have, the more expensive the price 2.) Hardware -- ORB can drive up the price a bunch. 3.) Anything tempered costs more, so windows close to doors cost more to pass code. 4.) Colored cladding --- I wanted ivory vs. white white --- this is a 2-3% upcharge for Pella --- standard pricing for Windsor. 5.) Screens --- obviously, if you have them, they cost more I played with my quote quite a bit, and fine tuned it --- I was able to save a lot of money by taking screens out of places like the garage, or hidden windows. I used ORB hardware everywhere except attic windows and garage -- this saved me some money. I fixed (made non-operable) some of the windows where appropriate and finally, I am using Emtek hardware made for Windsor vs. Windsor hardware (this will be seamless to me as Windsor handles it), but it saves me several thousand dollars. I am sure I have been a pain to the Windsor guy, changing and changing to try to save some money, but the savings have been worth it to me as I am getting lots more included for much less now. He has been very helpful in working with me (in Charlotte). Anyway, my point is, whichever window line you choose, you can probably find some efficiencies if you spend the time going through the quote. Thanks for all of the great info above! Rachel

You got that right. I sent an email to the carpenter and have not yet received a reply. But the advice I have received right here on this very thread about not removing all the siding, only the damaged lower parts, and the reference provided above by slateberry, is going to make this doable. I realize that this is a home forum, not a political one, but I just wonder about the wisdom of initiating the expensive and time consuming (it can take up to three months to receive the certification after you send off for it)process of certification when so many are desperately seeking work. So far, the few carpenters who have done jobs for me in years past have been careful and good people, to say that this extra burden of paperwork will somehow make us all safer is not, in my opinion, supported by what I've seen in my own experience. I obviously have to live with things as they are, so I'm glad all of y'all are here with your experience and advice:)

'Dry rot' normally requires repeated long term water. Siding can usually dry out fast enough it is not a problem unless the moisture is coming from the inside of the wall. Plants against siding can trap enough water to cause problems. You need to figure out how the rot occured and make sure it is just the siding and not the studs or bottom plate inside the wall. A carpenter has the best chance of finding the cause and making a long term repair.

The provia storms are very good. Price is fine, maybe a hair high if it does not include wrapping, but its a great price if it does. I agree overall with the advice provided so far on replacements vs storms, it really depends on the individual circumstances. It can be hard to justify spending that much without getting he other added benefits of replacements ( ease of cleaning, lower maintenance , potentially enhanced property value, better energy efficiency, etc), however if your existing windows can be reconditioned to the point of operating smoothly and looking good, adding the storm to that can definitely get you pretty close in those areas but with cost savings and maintaining the original integrity of the home. As wow alluded to, you could certainly take those dollars that you save and put them to air sealing , insulation , etc in other areas of he home and increase your energy savings exponentially.