Oh, and in case it wasn't clear from my earlier post, I don't think you should discount soapstone at all--I would use it again in the right setting. I just wouldn't use *our* particular soapstone. We didn't get samples and test, and we should have (it was at the top of our budget so we just went with the cheapest stone they had--mistake!) I remember someone here, Marcolo I think, getting samples a few months after ours went in and commenting that our stone looked like Ray Liotta after the testing. ;) But I do still love it for the reasons we chose it, so I would look for a harder soapstone that had those great qualities with fewer of the downsides. All soapstone will show some wear, but usually it's more like a patina, and many can be oiled or sanded to hide this if you want. I don't think most people have the issue with the edges gouging and breaking down like we do. A few random thoughts, too--our sink cabinet was much the same as yours. In our before pics you can see one door completely missing--it wouldn't close so we finally just took it off! Our sink run had been built in a later remodel (using, we think, parts of the original cabinets) because the original sinks of that era were freestanding behemoths (beautiful, but rarely kept in remodels in the 30s-50s sadly) so it was common for those cabinets to be remodeled even if others were kept. Ours were very poor condition (only mediocre quality to start, and many years old with water leaks and such to boot) and could not be salvaged. They were also three-sided built-in-place (very common in that era) which limited how easily we could reuse or adapt them. And I love love love tile counters, but we got it priced out and it was well above the cost of any stone options to have it done well (critical for it to be level--while we were fine doing our backsplash ourselves, we were not confident in our ability to get a perfectly level surface on the counter) using epoxy grout (which local places said was the solution to icky grout, something we wanted to avoid--dunno what the thinking on this is these days, as this was three years ago). If you have strong DIY tile skills, maybe an option, but otherwise, it's probably not worth the cost. And last (sorry for the length!) two thoughts on drawers: yes, they can add runners if you want (may need to replace the boxes though depending on drawers), but beeswax did wonders for ours! Try that first for sure. We did find that it was less costly to remodel the areas where we did not open walls beyond electrical, so I think if you can divide the kitchen by walls, it would be feasible to keep the Hoosier and drawers but gut the other areas. However, we also had and were keeping plaster walls--drywall is a lot cheaper so then it might make more sense to go down to the studs and just put up new wall. It may also affect code requirements, too. Where we did not open walls, our existing wiring was grandfathered in (except for counters, since cabinets/counters were new). That did save us some money too.

I don't know Sherwin Williams paint colors so I cannot say how any one would match to F&B. F&B All White is their brightest, whitest white without undertones if I recall correctly. What I do know is that most paint lines have an equivalent -- the brightest white. I would look at those from SW and from BM and others. A lot of the way any white will look depends on location. The same white paint will look much different in Texas, where the light is very strong and New England where it may look more gray due to the light. Noon has the brightest daylight. I would suggest looking at paint samples then. Also in the a.m. and late afternoon. See which looks best to you at all times of the day.

Thing the about the encyclopedia website is their data is not good. Their calculations start with RGB values that they snag from wherever. They don't measure the colors to industry standards. And it just snowballs from there with regard to F&B. Because F&B notoriously has skewed digital swatches. For the longest time their collateral (chips) weren't great either. But they switched to a company called CCI for some if not all of their collateral so it is markedly improved - especially the brochures. There isn't an "official" RGB value for any color. Because RGB values are just instructions that tell devices how much red, green and blue to light up to make a digital representation of a color. However.... there is such a thing as good/better/best RGB values. F&B website swatch RGB values appears to be marginally good. So if that's where encyclo is getting RGB values to start with, the results you get there for F&B "matches" is going to be one of the more tragically incorrect results. Last but not least, we can reduce entire color collections down to a spreadsheet. There is special software/apps that will show you where collections have "holes" in color space. Those holes are -often- there for a reason; like their particular set of ingredients (base/colorants) can't produce the colors in the "hole". If you're a paint company and don't want to compete with the typical larger manufacturers, you'd look at those holes and fill them. When you do that, it makes it harder to mix a match to your color if you don't have the same ingredients. Not saying F&B or Joanna Gaines does that. I'm just saying that's what I would do if I was selling paint.

I have White Dove Cabinets, they come off rather creamy to me too, although I didn't want stark white. I had Gray Owl BM walls and was having walls repainted a couple of days ago, painter made a mistake and paint SW Agreeable Gray instead! They of course offered to repaint but family Said they like the AG better, so I had them paint the same up the stairway and large loft room instead. Im no color expert so Im hoping the AG looks as good with my cabinets and quartzite countertops!! I have a subway tile that I found from someone on here that goes really well with WD cabinets. Subway is classic and timeless IMO. I have 5 recessed lights in my kitchen and also tried several bulbs, LED looked to bright and sterile to me, but I my give them another try! Sorry I can't help with suggestions, but will be following your post to hear what others recommend.