These are all very interesting. The Cornell information explains a lot. The french site appears to break the pruning methods by rootstock/tree size, but I like the looks of the M106 rootstock type. Still, the others have some interesting features. The lattice look on dwarves is very attractive, but must be terrible work to maintain. I will probably go with pruning towards a vase shape. Other than some fireblight, disease really isn't a problem, although we like to feed birds in the winter and have a lot of english sparrows, house finches, and gold finches. The house finches and sparrows seem to really enjoy digging into the apples. I haven't been able to convince any of the cats to take up residence in the trees, though. Maybe I can hang rubber mice in the trees? Ha! As a side note, these birds seem to enjoy eating the buds off my blue plum trees in the winter. The plum they like to roost in is nearly stripped clean in the spring and has only scattered blossoms, mostly on lower branches. I always have some sunburn on the apples on the south side of the trees but it isn't really a problem and doesn't appear to do any more damage than to hurt the eye-appeal of the apple. I was concerned that maybe there was some production or ease of care advantage with central leader systems that I just couldn't figure out. When trying to maintain a smaller size to a tree that wants to grow, do you periodically take out one of the scaffolds or cut it back severely to spur newer growth lower down (then train one of the new shoots that come out as a replacement scaffold)? Otherwise, it seems that eventually you would end up pruning branches back to roughly the same place every year and have a tree that looks like it is on steroids--big, thick limbs, no smaller fruiting branches?

they need constant proper water the first season.. and most likely.. ONLY water in severe drought the second ... and should be totally free range by next season ... [maybe you can recycle the drip.. and sell it to the neighbor.. lol ... the color contrast looks stark.. because the plant is not large or thick enough.. to hold the interior green .... in a few years.. the bronze will be a much cooler winter effect ... but if there is any insignificant damage.. the plant will recover.. but you will not know until its start budding out ... i wouldnt waste any time worrying about it ... i will note.. and give kudos for having a single leader tree .... it appears the neighbor did not ... are all your trees such???? ken

Since your research suggests they like acid soil, MissSherry, I would be hesitant to add lime to the soil, with will raise the PH. I have managed to get Spicebush to grow 3 years and it always dies the 4th year - weird, huh? I planted my current one in the front yard amid pine tree, honeysuckle, hackberry, etc., so I can better monitor it. I have also been feeding with an organic fert called LadyBug John's (Austin, Texas origin). It is a 3-1.5-2 ratio, which is the ratio recommended by Al on the container forum. He's a physicist who has soil and nutrients down to a science, literally. Anyway, this organic fert is more of a soil builder than a plant fertilizer with micronutes and all. I have been giving in a 1/2 feed about every 3 or 4 waterings. It has responded well to this. My Spicebush is located where it gets shade to dappled shade to some West sun (only about 1 hour), like it would if it grew at a forest edge. So far, so good, but it's only the 2nd year. The true test would be the 4th year for me. Sandy would be helpful since she has had hers for a few years now. I'll be interested to see if she responds here, too. The problems with Sassafras is that it is so hard to transplant. I've tried 3 times and failed. If you could get a very small seedling or seeds to start with, it might be a better solution. I don't think the seed is viable for very long, with fresh working best. If you know someone who has Sassafras and get either fresh seeds or a small volunteer, that would be great! Susan

While trying to tie it before planting I broke off the central leader. ==>> been there... done that ...lol .... live and learn.. both you and the tree ... (quite devastated). ==>>> nonsense.. perhaps you feel guilty.. so what.. as i said.. live and learn .. I understand the devastation. ==>> i dont anymore.. after the first time.. lol ... listen to me... and i will yell for emphasis ... ALL TREEs WILL RE-LEADER ... period ... if it dies.. it will be from IMPROPER PLANTING ... IMPROPER WATERING... or IMPROPER AFTERCARE/MULCHING ... you will give it.. upwards of 3 years... to sort itself out.. and THEN YOU WILL 'THINK ABOUT' HOW TO TRAIN IT ... i can send you an application for the WEIRDER THE BETTER CLUB.. if you wish .. i founded said club.. after doing it myself the first time... lol ... [well.. actually after the third time... lol.. i am a slow learner ...lol] the real question here.. is why you were trying to tie it up.. BEFORE PLANTING .... i bet you were focused on training it.. rather than getting it planted.. and established .... get it to live first.. THEN worry about training it.. as the years roll by ... please refer to the link.. to insure you did everything PROPER .... and if not... lets discuss it .... lastly ... and this is why i gave you the link.. why were you planting an 8 foot tree.. in july???? .. i know there are places that are much more forgiving than MI in july/august.... but even so.. there are better times to do such .... refer to the link for PROPER WATERING... as that will determine.. if it lives.... and.. no fert EVER... it will not help a stressed plant.. ever..... and a newly planted 8 foot conifer.. is stressed..... well.. i suppose it 4 to 5 feet now ... learn to laugh at yourself... live and learn... get it to live.. we can work on it as the years roll by ... BTW.. a pic might get slightly different answers .. but not much ... ken Here is a link that might be useful: link